Adjustable Strut top machining.

[sssgtr]

Okay I did some pricing.

Bearing = $17ea
Steel for 16 units = $264
Studs = $2ea
Lock bolts = $1ea

What bearing did you get quoted on and through who?

[Jason Broadhurst]

NOK brand bearing, through a local bearing shop.

Why can you get me bearings cheaper

[sssgtr]

I wish

I'm looking to do a set of adjustable strut tops for my U12 Pintara, apparently the cusco ones available for the JDM U12/U13 Attessa's fit, but it has not been confirmed. Plus it's a bit rich asking for $275 for something that can be done for $150 (incl laser cut top plates).

[Glenno]

What type of bearing did you end up going with?

[Jason Broadhurst]

24mm OD 12mm ID NOK(brand) non-lube Pillowball/Spherical bearing.

[Jason Broadhurst]

What thickness should I make the top plate. I have drawn it 5mm. There is no thread in it, the studs will be wheel type.

[sssgtr]

Personally i'd make it at least 1/4", so 6.35mm.

[BigMuz]

What material?

[Jason Broadhurst]

Alluminium or 304, same price for either.

[BigMuz]

Maybe 8 to 10mm for Aluminium.

6mm for staino would be ok I reckon, except machining it is a bitch..

[Jason Broadhurst]

Big dramas!

My mate wont have time to lathe the disc's up for me. I could send the design somewhere but it really needs to be a good fit to the top plate and bearing.

[Tardinator]

Have you thought about making non-adjustable offset tops?

Saves a lot of dicking about trying to make sure;

a) They are strong enough. I know some brand name strut tops have strength issues. I know some rally guys even use some crazy steel that i don't even know what it is to make sure they don't break/bend (non adjustable tops that is).

b) Making sure that they don't come unadjusted could be a problem too. The strut tops take some pretty strong forces so I could see it being hard to keep them adjusted.

Just trying to make some suggestions. Also if you still wanted them adjustable have you considered making up a set that is offset to max neg, then the top has many different holes drilled around it at the right spacing so you can rotate it around positions effectively moving the strut top in or out further, however this also effects castor.

This all said a lot of people often end up running max neg/castor anyway, or close to, so having them adjustable isn't that greater an advantage. The only problem is you might have to make up two sets to get them so both wheels have identical alignment. That said I don't know how the front suspention is setup, but it might allow for minor changes in camber to correct it?

Also just with the bearing as well, this was taken from a thread on bmsc.com.au

I've sold a few sets of spherical bearings for strut tops(I work for CBC Bearings)
The ones you should look for are the "wide series" they handle more axial(trying to push the centre out) load which is what you'll need, the radial load is less important. There are also sealing washers that are available for most sizes they will keep your bearings alive much longer.

Most bearings don't like to be welded to either.

Anyway, just my ramblings. HTH.

[Jason Broadhurst]

Can you like to a picture of a non-adjustable unit so I can see if I can adjust the design to my application?

[Tardinator]

I've attached a photo of the rotating adjustable one. Which is just an offset top with more holes drilled in it.

[Jason Broadhurst]

Looks like I would still need to lathe stuff.

Im not after adjustability, I just need rear camber to fit my semi's while the car is lowered, and front camber for better grip.