a more agressive tune for race fuel , run on plain jane shit from the pump .... it happens all the time dazza
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running in a rebuilt engine
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I was told by my builder that with rotaries, load wasn't really an issue and that cruising along at constant load on the freeway was actually a good way to do it.Originally posted by SuperMatI'm going to have the same issue one teh RX7 is back in one piece.
Luckily hills and highways are within easy reach.
Edit: btw I used the Motoman technique for my MX5 engine and it's great, 20,000kms later still has the same compression and uses no oil.Japanese Nostalgic Car - Dedicated to classic japanese cars
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When mine blew up on the dyno (lean out in #3 cylinder) we just assumed it was my dodgy wiring job or a computer problem with the injector driver
Wasn't until I broke another piston did I get the injectors checked for them to tell me it was just a little bit of silicone on the injector plugSpeed cameras: Best tax ever! The one that makes you pay and makes you think you deserve it.
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Interestingly I've got a mate who used to race bikes and during his engineering degree did a lot of testing of different run in techniques and he couldn't disagree more with motormans theories. What he found was the "thrash the crap out of it" run in left a lot of "peaks and troughs" in the rings/bore which bedded them in nicely but over time those peaks would give way and the engine would lose compression faster than using the old fashioned way of running in. Not an issue if you are rebuilding regularly but not the ideal way of doing things for the average punter.Originally posted by BillzillaBe very cautious of that - It's intended for racing motorbikes, not road car engines.
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Originally posted by IMOAInterestingly I've got a mate who used to race bikes and during his engineering degree did a lot of testing of different run in techniques and he couldn't disagree more with motormans theories. What he found was the "thrash the crap out of it" run in left a lot of "peaks and troughs" in the rings/bore which bedded them in nicely but over time those peaks would give way and the engine would lose compression faster than using the old fashioned way of running in. Not an issue if you are rebuilding regularly but not the ideal way of doing things for the average punter.
Pretty much exactly what a mate of mine from Cosworth said.
If you want the engine to last, take it easy.
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Bed the cam in at 2000 - 2500 rpm for the first 20 mins, giving the throttle the occasional blip to get the oil moving, after the cam bed in change the oil & filter to get rid of the crud.
Drive normally (unless u usually drive like a pissed 17 year old) for 500 k's, don't be afraid to nail it occasionally (gets the rings working & helps bed in) but avoid big revs, change oil & filter again.
One of the worst things u can do to a fresh engine is baby it to much, the bores will glaze & it'll burn oil & have too much blowby.
Do not let a fresh engine idle for extended periods.
Do not load up engine too much, if u'r going up a hill don't lug it in a high gear, go back a gear.
If it's got moly rings & torque plated bores 500k's is plenty of run in, un-torque plated bores can take up to 1000k's to bed in properly, plain iron rings can take even longer.
Change oil again at 1000k's & the every 5000k's after that.
Have fun!
TK
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Another vote for waiting for Dale.Originally posted by BenderYeah, well I'm gonna build my own lunar space lander!
With blackjack aaaaannd Hookers! Actually, forget the space lander, and the blackjack.Originally posted by JamesBWhat do you get if you cross a negro with a chinese?
... A car thief that can't drive.
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pre-mix rocks !!! i love it. takes 5 min more at the bouser but it means no dirty engine oil is getting pumped through the rotors !!!Originally posted by SuperMatBe thankful you don't have to run pre-mix like I will have to
Phee - check with dale. did he build it ?? he'll know the best way !!! hell it's his job !!!~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
RNJ Fabrication
Design-Machining-Welding
RNJfabrication@yahoo.com
04 0737 0736
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