1JZ into HJ Kingswood Ute. Project Car for sale.

[BigMuz]

Just found it all on soarercentral. Definitely jzz30 soarer. There are obviously two different type of ecus and this one is the more uncommon one.

Got the pinouts and everything.

I'll have a good look through it tomorrow and figure it out. Thanks for your help.

PDF is attached.

[2JZR31]

Mine made more sense because the pinouts I needed did not go back into the engine loom. IE they were on the plug socket of the ECU that went to the body loom which was totally separate from the shit that went back to the ECU.

Also the pinouts of the small chopped off plugs would be of great value as its these wires that you will need to hook up. But you should just be able to trace most of them from the ECU. There will still be a few for things like the selector switch and second speed sensor wires in those chopped plugs. A lot of this was not connected to the ECU directly on mine and I had to trace it and connect it up.

Surely the pinouts you need have to come out on those chopped of wires?

I know you are not up to wiring, but you will be glad to have as much info as you can before you hook into it

[Cplus]

Why? You're a wimp man! Nothing there to eek about!

Just the sheer amount of surface corrosion would put me off!

if you leave it ghetto though - it'll be cool

how far are you going with it? you simply putting in the donk, fitting the old boonga seats and thats it?

or will this be a "pretty" up?

C+

[JZK25]

Fits nicely, me likey.
You need to find a wiring diagram, the pinout is handy but doesn't really have all the info you want. The Pinouts are printed on the cricuit board in the ecu anyway.

You will have to trace the power supplies to the injectors, coil and ancillaries back to the harness plugs near the ecu connectors. These will need a couple of relays to feed them. One ignition triggered and one ecu triggered from the mrel pin. I would recommend using a bosch fuel pump relay like VK's have. It primes and then runs when there is an ignition pulse, much better than the crazy toyota setup. Once it's running you can get all the auto signals etc. sorted.

[2JZR31]

Tops Al. See told ya PF would come to the rescue.

That sounds more involved than my Aristo conversion. I didn't even need wiring diagrams and there was no need to wire up injectors because the ECU drives them with direct power supplies. The only power supply wire I forgot was the one for the VSV's and idle control valve, Al figured out it may be missing because the idle valve wasn't working (after we changed in lol). The sequential system started working after that too because it was the same wire for the VSVs.

If you get stuck you will still be able to just trace wires without a diagram. Will take a while though. That's how I wired my speed sensor and selector switch and everything else. But then again it did take me forever to get it all running right..

[JZK25]

The mrel triggered relay supplies the ecu, injectors and ancillaries(idle control etc) with power and the ignition switch triggered relay supplies the coils with power. You need the coil power on it's own circuit because the ecu has self shut off control (after the ignition is switched off and the engine stops) to reset the idle stepper motor to it's start position.

I'm pretty sure the JZZ30 uses a fuel pump control module so you can't really use the ecu control for the pump without the module. This makes the Bosch FP relay a necessity.

Another word of advice is do not rely on the factory holden wiring for anything on the engine, it is not designed to do anything but power a coil.
You will need a starter relay(wired thru the inhibitor switch) and also a starter button as the factory ignition switch turns off when the engine is cranking. The alternator needs it's own specific wiring and fusible links too, they are very powerful and a short between battery and alt when the engine is running would be bad news.
Theres a heap more specifics but it's nothing that can't be sorted.

[Jim]

wow, haven't you put a sprig of parsley on a stinky dog turd!

Be an awesome sleeper though! haha!
Is it all coming back out for the paint job, or are you going to leave it as a shitter?

[BigMuz]

Awesome Dennis and Al. Thanks. Like I said I am nowhere near wiring yet, but I just want to know what the major stumbling blocks are before I get into it and realise I have to chase bits and bobs from every importer in Australia!

The plan is that we give it a standard tidy up and paint job. The body has a few patches of rust (173 patches to be more accurate) but it is actually bloody straight. Like I said the body work is last on the list. At this stage I want to do the initial consult with the engineer, then do the mounts for the engine and trans, and the shifter, mount a radiator and intercooler, then pull it all apart and paint the chassis and suspension stuff. Then the body can have its birthday and drop it all back in and finish the wiring etc.

With the Commodore brakes the obvious sleeper thing is to use cop wheels and hubbies. A basic solid colour and it should be pretty good. Not really into spending money on flashy engine bay stuff, a factory style plumbing regime is the go. Exhaust tube and black rubber ftw :D Engine will remain stock for a while too, as getting it all working right seems like a big enough challenge. Plus weight wise it will be pretty special anyways.

Al, do you think I should chase the factory relay block? Wouldn't that give me the control relays for everything and simplify things? Or is there no single bunch of relays? As far as I can tell it definately uses a fuel pump controller, variable voltage and all that. That MAY be run from another control board though. Holy crap you would think Mr Toyota would be much more standard in his wiring between cars of the same model and engine...

Guys, thanks heaps for your help. I asked Norbie if he knew of TRD Kingswood but it seems like he has dropped off the fae of the earth. Maybe wiring the 1jz drove him mad!

[JZK25]

It is much simpler to use std relays and a fuse panel then to use the factory stuff. The relays and fuses are all over the car. The factory circuitry will blow your mind and is not necessary. The pump controller is in the boot so you won't find on of those too quick. Mr Toyota does what he likes, he gives no fark for us.
Don't stress about the wiring anyway, it is very doable.
There's a great tech article on Lextreme co written by GiantTomato about wiring a 1UZ up with std relays. Not the same engine but the principles are the same. It is in the tech articles not in the forum.

[2JZR31]

I used a total of one extra relay to wire mine. And that was to supply extra current to the fuel pump via a bigger wire. The rest were already in the donor car. All I can think of is fuel pump relay, ign and start relays, plus that thing Al was talking about for the injectors and that. I'm sure there are a few more, but you get the drift. There are hardly any.

[ALLMTR]

Weekly update?

[BigMuz]

Spoke to the engineer last weekend. He is a tool but more than happy with everything we are doing.

he wants us to put all the basics in place and then he will have an inspection. Those basics are;

Cut and move holden engine mount blocks to the rear of the crossmember - use Holden V8 mounts and RHS to a plate replacing the cast factory bolt on mounts.
Install gearbox mount and crossmember- looks like it will work but the holes need moving slightly.
Install Commodore twin spot front brake conversion. Adapter hubs and rotors etc via hoppers stoppers seems to be the go. $1300 ish.. Biggest expense other than the engine/trans.
Change diff to Commodore V8 disc brake, weld on leaf saddles and remove trailing arm stubs.
Install seats- probably late model import seats. They need to be fairly low and slim- pretty tight cabin in these old utes.
Mount radiator and modify radiator support if needed.
Source and install seat belts to comply with adrs- ie rigid stalk for bucket seats, retractable if possible.

That's it. Not too much to do really. I've ordered a diff from the wreckers. Should be here within a week. Then we'll do the mounts and start organising the brake conversion.

It is JUST pre the emissions issues and so he doesn't require cats or any emissions controls at all. Like not even charcoal cannister. I will install it and a cat because it seems silly not to though.

Next update will be engine mounts done and crossmember.

[HoonBoy]

Source and install seat belts to comply with adrs- ie rigid stalk for bucket seats, retractable if possible.

www.hemco.com.au for the seatbelts, they will have what you are after.

It is JUST pre the emissions issues and so he doesn't require cats or any emissions controls at all. Like not even charcoal cannister. I will install it and a cat because it seems silly not to though.

I always thought the emissions went from the engine or car, whatever was newest?

[BigMuz]

He said that early 1977 (iirc) means you can ignore all those requirements, but I am not sure if that is a commercial vehicle thing or everything. I understood it the same way as you did, but he said it is optional as long as it is pre 77 ish.

[Jim]

must be a commercial thing! 'coz sure as shit it's not the case with sedans.