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    No amped speaker upgrade recomendations

    I'm looking for something I can do during shut down that even I have the ability to do.

    I used to know a little bit about stereos and such, but have kind of forgotten it these days.

    I'm looking for some 6.5 inch two way (Or whatever) speakers for the back doors of my car (Suzuki Swift) and some 6.5 inch component splits for the front doors as well.

    I have an upgraded pioneer headunit from the stock already. I don't want to spend too much. There will be no additional amp powering it, just running from the head unit.

    Manual says this for power specs:


    Any recommendations on speakers?

    Would like to spend under $400 for both sets. But the cheaper the better.



    Also, I have some sound deadening stuff hanging around from a previous car that I never used, can I use some of this is strategic locations to make the sound better? Or do I need to cover entire doors and door covers?

    Warmest Regards
    Donald J Lobster

    Last edited by Clock Lobster; 05-04-20, 09:07 AM.
    Previously known as Lobster, Chuss's brother's anus, Chuss's brother, Lobsook, Lobstersock, Socks, Sockz, MissAmericaImportGirl, ClutchCLobster

    CJM 4 Life yo!

    #2
    Jaycar stuff is still surprisingly good. If you are not using an amp the biggest thing is to keep and eye on the sensitivity of the speakers. You are going to want something with 91dB/W @ 1m or higher. It is a Log scale so 88dB will require twice the power as 91dB for the same SPL.

    Comment


      #3
      For something general, JBL GTO629 or similar are quite nice for the money. Also fairly sensitive at 93dB so you shouldn't have trouble with lower power input. I can't recommend the value of Dynamat enough, absolutely essential for you to the do the front doors at minimum to the point where I'd sacrifice the rear speakers entirely given the budget of ~$400. Throw $60-100 in Dynamat and spend whatever you're comfortable with on the front splits. Clarion also make compact class-D stereo amps (https://www.clarion.com/au/en/produc...410/index.html) if you do decide you want a little more punch later.
      PF Gamers List

      Originally posted by klampykixx
      if a motor has big enough injectors to run say, 7psi but only just starts to max out right on rev limit, will it run more boost lower in the revs without maxing out if you lower the rev limit?

      Comment


        #4
        Yeah spending a little extra (like $125 for a 1.8sqm kit with install tools) on deadener from Car Builders for example would easily do enough in each door to really up the quality of sound and cut noise. Can always expand the install of deadener later..

        To be honest I’d just go upper-mid spec splits in the front and a simpler two-way coaxial version in the back. Chase the numbers (sensitivity and power handling should be consistent between the two pairs) moreso than brand remembering most mainstream ones always on-sale somewhere....
        ---
        Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

        Comment


          #5
          I was looking for the same thing a few years back for the Clio. I went with Focal splits because they had the highest sensitivity I could find. No idea what model sorry, but they sounded good to me. Might have been these? https://www.ryda.com.au/focal-iss165...t-car-speakers
          I had a head unit that would drive a sub, the same as your pioneer. So I did that instead of rear speakers. Way better use of the budget.
          Something like:
          https://frankiesautoelectrics.com.au...svc-subwoofer/
          In this:
          https://frankiesautoelectrics.com.au...d-side-of-box/

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for the responses so far.

            I've already got just under "2 doors" worth of dynamat already, so I'll give that a go first.

            What area is best to to put the dynamat on?

            Like the exterior skin? The interior skin? The door card (or whatever it is called when it is plastic)?
            Previously known as Lobster, Chuss's brother's anus, Chuss's brother, Lobsook, Lobstersock, Socks, Sockz, MissAmericaImportGirl, ClutchCLobster

            CJM 4 Life yo!

            Comment


              #7
              Speak to Kabab - he can give you a good deal.

              Plus his business partner used to be in the car stereo business.
              "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower." - Mark Donahue Penske Porsche 917

              "In Japan we no give fark for Subaru" - Trust Japan Technical Director
              (TM - AVENGE)

              "You can never have enough power. I remember when we had Group B cars... THEN we had enough power!"
              Juha Kankkunen - Rally of Argentina '02

              Comment


                #8
                seal up those big holes in the door skin as best you can using the dynamat. that will make the most bang for buck

                Comment


                  #9
                  I’d work on “what rattles” or “what’s tinniest” sounding gets it first.

                  You don’t need corner to corner coverage to make the outer skins substantially less tinny sounding. And that inner frame, those holes would be worth trying to cover over because they’re a path for the road noise etc.
                  ---
                  Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

                  Comment


                    #10
                    With no extra amp you need to look for higher efficiency db/m figures.
                    For example, some higher end speakers sound great - with an amp and an honest 100 WRMS.
                    Disagree with the jaycar stuff, they seem to have lost interest in speakers in general, average at best.
                    "And I know that arseholes grow on trees but I'm here to trim the leaves" Peeping Tom, Mike Patton

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Get these! and suitable amp (they really do shine 100rms or greater, mine get 125) https://www.rainbow-audio.de/wp-cont...glish_EISA.pdf

                      In all seriousness, agree with everything above generally and that Jaycar stopped the good speaker drivers IMO years ago. After the yellow kevlar ones died out I think they started to go with cheaper supply and others improved at the same time, they were great bang for buck however! Good to know you have some sound deadener sheets. I'd use some along with cardboard (where the door inner skin gap is and sandwich it within a layer on each side if you have enough) or something similar to close all the spaces first, there may be better ways to do this. Personally I've concentrated on the outer skin mainly, but then decided stuff it and covered the inner skin too - not necessary but same as others have said, anything that dings, shut it up.
                      PF Gamers List

                      Originally posted by klampykixx
                      if a motor has big enough injectors to run say, 7psi but only just starts to max out right on rev limit, will it run more boost lower in the revs without maxing out if you lower the rev limit?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thinking of one of these for the front:
                        https://www.ryda.com.au/jbl-club-650...t-car-speakers
                        or maybe these ones
                        https://www.ryda.com.au/jbl-cs760c-6...o-loudspeakers

                        And probably these for the back
                        https://www.bankstownsound.com.au/pr...jbl-club-6520/


                        Sound good?


                        Previously known as Lobster, Chuss's brother's anus, Chuss's brother, Lobsook, Lobstersock, Socks, Sockz, MissAmericaImportGirl, ClutchCLobster

                        CJM 4 Life yo!

                        Comment

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