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Blade fuses - What's the hotness?

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    Blade fuses - What's the hotness?

    I'm running low on spare fuses for a few of the vehicles and decided it was time to buy a kit.

    I jump on ebay, and of course there's 11ty million results for "blade fuse kit" all very cheap.

    I've bought fuses ad-hoc over the years, from different places and varying prices. But what they all have in common is that they're shit compared to OEM fuses. The slightly more expensive kits seem to be Narva brand, and from experience anything that carries that name is also shit.

    While searching the net for what the Japanese manufacturers use, I came across this guy https://diag.net/msg/mtvodyyk0svb0bwkuahr9x9io Seems like Toyota and Honda use PEC brand, but Littelfuse and Bussman also seem legit.

    That lead me to this website and kit https://www.swe-check.com.au/product...kit-300-piece# They list all the right brands, and they're a distributor for Prolec which source their fuses from the same aforementioned brands https://www.prolecproducts.com.au/pa...ut_quality.php

    RS-Online / Mouser have kits from Littelfuse which is on the expensive side compared to the Prolec kit.

    What fuses do you use and why? Any particular hookup for non-shit fuses?
    The Slowly IS300

    #2
    I have and do buy from SWE-check and RS comp. both are good quality. or go steal some OEM fuses from the wreckers

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      #3
      I've used about a billion Narva fuses without any issues.

      What's your criteria on aftermarket fuses being shit compared to OEM fuses?

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        #4
        I do not recall if I have specifically used Narva fuses, but in general shit fuses have one or more of the following 'features'
        • Plastic case very loose over the fuse
        • Plastic case being brittle, breaks when you push it in or pull it out
        • Terminals being too thick or thin
        On one occasion I have had the cheap China fuses start to melt the plastic case and holder before the fuse element melted, replaced with OEM fuse and it popped straight away (there was a wiring issue obviously)

        Diving a bit deeper into this topic, the video from old mate below is a bit long but gives good information, the resistance on the cheap shitty fuses is way off. Which explains my melting issue.



        Click image for larger version

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        Ohm's law I=V/R, with smaller resistance the amperage allowed through is higher. 10A ebay fuse is the same as 30A Bussman or Littelfuse...

        Learning about the temperature rating of them now and how that affects it.
        The Slowly IS300

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          #5
          https://cal-vantools.com/products/amp-hound-2/
          if you want to go down the blade fuse testing rabbithole

          Comment


            #6
            Just do a wreckers run and raid a few late model cars?

            Comment


              #7
              Honestly have not been to a wrecker in years. Online or call and post.

              And having a neat assortment kit is nice. For $77 my time is better spent procrastinating in the garage than pulling fuses.

              Pulled the trigger on the Prolec kit, their catalogue says it's Littelfuse brand.

              Dad has a cheap ebay kit, and I might go grab a few Narva fuses and test the lot of them for shits and giggles.
              The Slowly IS300

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