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School/Critique me - basic dual battery setup

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    School/Critique me - basic dual battery setup

    Recently bought an old Rangey thats been modified by a previous owner - as if the wiring on British cars wasnt bad enough, its had a solid going over by a "I watched a youtube how-to" type at some point in its life. The wiring is an absolute embarassing mess and yes I was well aware of that when I bought it. The plan is to strip all the extra/aditional wiring away and give it a good do over. It currently has [besides the poorly installed LPG system] the following installed in terms of extra accessories:

    -Dual Battery system with some ancient looking 100A battery isolator
    -Winch mounted to bull bar running of 2nd battery
    -Dual thermo fans ex-VT Commodore
    -Temp warning alarm

    What I want to do besides make it a lot neater and less kill-fusey is consolidate and integrate everything. I plan on adding the following to the electrical system:

    -Fog lights
    -Light Bar
    -Run winch off both batteries
    -100A Circuit breakers to both batteries
    -Fuse/Relay box to main battery for Thermos, winch, lights
    -Fuse box for Anderson plug, work light and 12V Point

    There are no plans to run a permanently mounted Fridge or anything too load heavy like that, although i would like to be able to charge the 2nd battery w/ portable solar via anderson plug

    See dodgy image attached. Any objections or have I missed anything?



    Click image for larger version

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    Components I plan on using are as follows:

    -4x Military-spec Battery terminals
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/35325402...l4AAOSw8G1d3zj L

    -2x 100A manual-reset circuit breakers
    https://www.narva.com.au/products/55...nd-accessories

    -1x Redarc SBI12 for batt isolator
    https://www.redarc.com.au/smart-start-sbi-12v-100a

    -1x Bussman 5 Relay/10 Fuse dual-bussed box
    https://www.autoelectricalparts.com....al-bussed.html

    -1x 6-Fuse blade fuse box, non-bussed
    https://www.autoelectricalparts.com....dary-lock.html

    Cheers

    N-
    1978 Gemini Sedan - Powered by i change my mind every week - R.I.P
    1980 Gemini Sedan
    1987 Range Rover Vogue
    1996 TF Holden Rodeo

    #2
    I am doing a similar thing on my Hilux, relatively similar wiring and setup.

    Does the Redarc SBI12 do manual bridging? If not then you will need your engine running to bridge the batteries, so you wont be able to jumpstart the main battery off the secondary (if that matters to you). I am planning on using a spare motorsport isolator i have lying around to act as a bypass bridge between the batteries in case i need to do that.

    I am also going to use a 50A secondary battery charger and solar input to take advantage of panels, so slight difference there.

    It is also worth considering if you need primary and secondary battery wiring to the towbar for charging trailer batteries etc. Personally I am going to run a cheap Kings battery isolator to run the trailer plug off the main battery after engine start.

    In addition I am planning on using one of these to simplify wiring for all of the engine bay stuff:
    Click image for larger version

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    Basically just a prepopulated and wired fuse box with remote switch panel.
    Chris
    ------
    The MX5 Noujet (its up market) | The Hilux Complete Nugget
    I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

    Comment


      #3
      Not sure re: the manual bridging. If im honest, whilst i have an average-ish ability with wiring and can understand circuit diagrams i do get a bit lost with the more complicated details. Being able to jump the main in the event of a flat battery/no start would be handy - it is a Rover after all. So i take it by "bypass" bridge you mean when the switch is turned you are effectively doing away with the battery isolator temporarily, effectively putting jumper leads from Batt 1 to Batt 2?

      No real need for trailer power or anything like that as its not really going to be used for that sort of thing at this point. The Anderson plug to rear of car was more for powering, say, an air compressor to inflate tyres, or if we do an overnighter and have a Fridge with us etc.

      Got a link to that fuse box? Pretty sure the box itself looks like the one i started wiring into the Gemini
      1978 Gemini Sedan - Powered by i change my mind every week - R.I.P
      1980 Gemini Sedan
      1987 Range Rover Vogue
      1996 TF Holden Rodeo

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by F3ARED View Post
        Not sure re: the manual bridging. If im honest, whilst i have an average-ish ability with wiring and can understand circuit diagrams i do get a bit lost with the more complicated details. Being able to jump the main in the event of a flat battery/no start would be handy - it is a Rover after all. So i take it by "bypass" bridge you mean when the switch is turned you are effectively doing away with the battery isolator temporarily, effectively putting jumper leads from Batt 1 to Batt 2?

        No real need for trailer power or anything like that as its not really going to be used for that sort of thing at this point. The Anderson plug to rear of car was more for powering, say, an air compressor to inflate tyres, or if we do an overnighter and have a Fridge with us etc.

        Got a link to that fuse box? Pretty sure the box itself looks like the one i started wiring into the Gemini
        Yeah, the bridging just takes the isolator out of the equation. You can get some isolators which have a push button to do this, but I am not convinced of their longevity, hence a nice old school isolator key switch.

        Makes sense with the rear Anderson plug.

        This is the fuse box i got: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/353361380540

        Its the same basic unit as tons of others, including the one i wired up into the Hilux already, but this way it just tidies up the installation.

        This is my intended wiring setup:
        Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0341.jpeg Views:	5 Size:	285.9 KB ID:	7298930

        All of the main feeds will be fused, but the silly webapp i was using to make that diagram didnt have fuses in it.
        Last edited by takai; 29-09-21, 03:49 PM.
        Chris
        ------
        The MX5 Noujet (its up market) | The Hilux Complete Nugget
        I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

        Comment


          #5
          So basically, something like this or a carling switch running from just after the breaker on main battery, to the other side of the battery isolator yes? Normally run around in the OPEN/OFF position unless you want the secondary bridged in which case youd just switch it to CLOSED/ON?

          https://www.repco.com.au/en/globes-b...6bl/p/A9758517

          I see what you mean about the kings isolator now on the anderson plug line. Looking at your diagram has made me realize i should have the 4/6blade fuse box on 2nd battery connected AFTER the breaker, no?
          1978 Gemini Sedan - Powered by i change my mind every week - R.I.P
          1980 Gemini Sedan
          1987 Range Rover Vogue
          1996 TF Holden Rodeo

          Comment


            #6
            Just did some more digging. The RedArc does have a push button over-ride [which im fine with]. Recommended Dual-Sensing version to charge AUX and Main batt via anderson plug solar panel. I also found this one which, despite being a lot cheaper, is a lot more compact and easier to mount as a result.

            https://www.projecta.com.au/dual-bat...ronic-isolator

            Breaker amperage should be the same or less than the isolator amperage rating yes? If so, they have a typo in the projecta user manual. Still looking at the 100A one
            1978 Gemini Sedan - Powered by i change my mind every week - R.I.P
            1980 Gemini Sedan
            1987 Range Rover Vogue
            1996 TF Holden Rodeo

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by F3ARED View Post
              So basically, something like this or a carling switch running from just after the breaker on main battery, to the other side of the battery isolator yes? Normally run around in the OPEN/OFF position unless you want the secondary bridged in which case youd just switch it to CLOSED/ON?

              https://www.repco.com.au/en/globes-b...6bl/p/A9758517

              I see what you mean about the kings isolator now on the anderson plug line. Looking at your diagram has made me realize i should have the 4/6blade fuse box on 2nd battery connected AFTER the breaker, no?
              Yeah, the fuse box shoudl be after the breaker, or on a second breaker. A carling switch will be too small, you will want an isolator like the Narva one instead.

              Originally posted by F3ARED View Post
              Just did some more digging. The RedArc does have a push button over-ride [which im fine with]. Recommended Dual-Sensing version to charge AUX and Main batt via anderson plug solar panel. I also found this one which, despite being a lot cheaper, is a lot more compact and easier to mount as a result.

              https://www.projecta.com.au/dual-bat...ronic-isolator

              Breaker amperage should be the same or less than the isolator amperage rating yes? If so, they have a typo in the projecta user manual. Still looking at the 100A one
              But if the RedArc has push button override, then you may not need it at all. That Narva one has the same function as the RedArc except that it is bidirectional. That would help you with solar charging the main battery, although it inevitably will lead to load equalisation rather than having one fully charged and then charging the other.

              Breakers should be sized to wire amperage, and treat the isolator as effectively another breaker.
              Chris
              ------
              The MX5 Noujet (its up market) | The Hilux Complete Nugget
              I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

              Comment


                #8
                Silly question, but do you need an isolator at all? I've been running two N70zz sized batteries just linked in parallel for 15 years of 4wding with no issues, running a fridge for ten of those. Multiple trips to the high country, the outback. Hundreds of camping trips.

                I do rate the Cooper Bussmann 10 fuse, 5 relay boxes, I run two of them, although I run a single bussed version, the dual bussed would have limited my options.
                Don't worry, thats just the self-preservation instinct, in my experience you can safely ignore it.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by hotgemini View Post
                  Silly question, but do you need an isolator at all? I've been running two N70zz sized batteries just linked in parallel for 15 years of 4wding with no issues, running a fridge for ten of those. Multiple trips to the high country, the outback. Hundreds of camping trips.

                  I do rate the Cooper Bussmann 10 fuse, 5 relay boxes, I run two of them, although I run a single bussed version, the dual bussed would have limited my options.
                  Was thinking the same, I run 3 120Ah batteries parallel in my Ranger.

                  Beer fridge runs 24/7.

                  Don't mention the adBlocker !!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Generally you shouldnt crank from your AGM batteries, and also different batteries have different float voltages. If you have identical batteries and you never flatten them then no problems. But if you have different types of batteries, or want to bring in solar etc then you have issues with just bridging the batteries.
                    Chris
                    ------
                    The MX5 Noujet (its up market) | The Hilux Complete Nugget
                    I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by hotgemini View Post
                      Silly question, but do you need an isolator at all? I've been running two N70zz sized batteries just linked in parallel for 15 years of 4wding with no issues, running a fridge for ten of those. Multiple trips to the high country, the outback. Hundreds of camping trips.

                      I do rate the Cooper Bussmann 10 fuse, 5 relay boxes, I run two of them, although I run a single bussed version, the dual bussed would have limited my options.
                      I always assumed, rightly or wrongly, that it was also partially to stop your accessories killing your start battery. But dont take my word on that because elec isnt my strong point.

                      Why would the single bus version limit your options? Are they as good quality as they look? Look like a good bit of gear, actually really looking forward to getting it. Old mate tried to sell me on the water proofing bungs and plugs for it...told him if i got water where i was planning on mounting it, a few blown fuses would be the least of my issues 😂
                      1978 Gemini Sedan - Powered by i change my mind every week - R.I.P
                      1980 Gemini Sedan
                      1987 Range Rover Vogue
                      1996 TF Holden Rodeo

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Theres some good notes in here, but one scenario you should try and consider in your system design (because ive seen it too many times) is complete primary battery failure, not flat, but leaking acid/dropped cells etc so that you need to remove the negative from it and run the vehicle from your aux battery.

                        I like those simple isolators when both engines in the bay and same battery type. You can also just wire them in parallel and keep an eye on them.


                        Parramatta Eels, 2009 Premiership rightful winners.

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