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    Consolidating Electrical Circuits - Considerations?

    So I'm thinking about consolidating the fuses in my KE10 when I fit the aftermarket fuse block. Currently this is the layout:

    MAIN R 10A
    MAIN L 10A
    DIM R 10A
    DIM L 10A
    TAIL 10A
    HORN 20A
    HEATER 15A
    GAUGE 5A
    WIPER 15A
    TURN 15A

    I'd like to reduce this to 8 fuses by merging the MAIN R & L and DIM R & L.
    Is the formula here to simply add the amperage of each existing fuse together and use a 20A for each, or is there other considerations (within the fuse box itself - obviously the wiring to it will need to be slightly thicker to be on the safe side too)?
    Swedish Soot Chucker
    Orange Accident KE10

    #2
    Basically yes, but, do you want both lights to go out if one shorts or whatever causes a fuse to blow, usually fuse fatigue these days. Other than that your idea is OK.
    Radical SR3
    HSV R8
    BMW 325ti Proddy Car

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by GHZ28 View Post
      Basically yes, but, do you want both lights to go out if one shorts or whatever causes a fuse to blow, usually fuse fatigue these days. Other than that your idea is OK.
      Yeah, I did consider that. For the little use the car will have, especially at night, I think it's worth while taking the gamble on.
      Swedish Soot Chucker
      Orange Accident KE10

      Comment


        #4
        As long as wiring etc can hack it should be no problem. Remember that double the current through a terminal or wire is 4x the heat (I2R).

        However, if just joining two circuits right at the fuse box (that originally came from 2 fuses at the same fuse box) then that is mostly not relevant and there should be no need to upgrade any wiring. Only thing to consider is the box itself then really.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Shonky View Post
          As long as wiring etc can hack it should be no problem. Remember that double the current through a terminal or wire is 4x the heat (I2R).

          However, if just joining two circuits right at the fuse box (that originally came from 2 fuses at the same fuse box) then that is mostly not relevant and there should be no need to upgrade any wiring. Only thing to consider is the box itself then really.
          Yeah that shouldn't be a problem - the existing box has individual outputs and a few bus bars for the inputs. I'm just going to need to make a couple of small looms to split the bus bar inputs out to individual terminals and the same thing on the other side to take it from one output into the two circuits - a few cm of additional wire at best.
          Using a Narva fuse block rated at 30A per circuit, so should will be heaps of overhead considering the biggest circuit is 20A
          Swedish Soot Chucker
          Orange Accident KE10

          Comment


            #6
            Just be a bit careful as shonky was trying to point out. The purpose of a fuse or circuit breaker etc - is to protect the wire - not whats plugged into it. So, if the Main R wire is good for 12 or 15A (will always be a bit over), having a 20A fuse on that circuit wont protect the wire.
            So - unless you were rewiring the car, and putting in larger wire to each item, then it doesnt really work.

            Worst case - in a dead short, it will blow the fuse regardless, but its the slightly high current for a longer time that wont blow the fuse, but will melt the wire (ie - a poor earth, or corroded connection)

            Comment


              #7
              Also if using a factory Japanese loom OEM the wire generally is rated higher for its comparative size. So 0.5mm2 is like 16A rated in Japan and the rest of us monkeys think that it’s real current carrying capability about 8A continuous with 10-13A short term loading.

              Headlights being about the furthest high drain device makes the wire size more critical (heat, voltage drop etc).
              ---
              Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

              Comment


                #8
                You can reduce the drain on the circuits by using led globes everywhere too. They use less current and are usually brighter. Which would mean the old 10a fuse for one light can now support two.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Staples View Post
                  You can reduce the drain on the circuits by using led globes everywhere too. They use less current and are usually brighter. Which would mean the old 10a fuse for one light can now support two.
                  That's the intention. Right now it needs to support the incandescent bulbs though.

                  Put this together today, made some adapter looms to make it all happen, fitted it to the car and everything is happy. I now have brake lights too, which I didn't have before - I guess the crusty old fuse box was the culprit.
                  Swedish Soot Chucker
                  Orange Accident KE10

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