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Microsquirt - Super Tight Budget EFI - Datsun L20B- Anyone got experience?

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    #31
    Hey mate,

    We are going to use GSXR1300 throttles. They are complete with fuel rail, injectors, tps, map, linkages etc. 80mm spacing between them and i believe they are a 45mm throttle plate.

    We are going to setup a deadhead / returnless type fuel system to minimise the mods required to the throttle assembly.


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      #32
      Tim, do they have a shared vacuum reference between them? Or does the MAP reference off one port? (thinking of acoustics and resonance gremlins)

      Also any pictures of the injector out and plug type? Info on flow rate or brand etc?

      Using those would be really cool on a 1uz and I reckon a fairly achievable exercise. Would make for great noise if it was NA
      Originally posted by Bosshoggett
      If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

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        #33
        DON'T try to run a deadhead setup on an L-series. It will vapor lock every time...especially without a heat shield under the intake manifold. Definitely recommend a heat shield!

        I ran a returnless rail and had a reliable problem with that...you had to key-on, purge the rail, key off, then start it on hot days. Went to a normal bypass type system with a return line and all those problems went away.

        I have run MS1 and MS2Extra (similar to Microsquirt) on my L-series engines for the last six years. One turbo, and one N/A, now supercharged. Both L28's, but close'nuff.

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          #34
          Originally posted by Xnke View Post
          DON'T try to run a deadhead setup on an L-series. It will vapor lock every time...especially without a heat shield under the intake manifold. Definitely recommend a heat shield!

          I ran a returnless rail and had a reliable problem with that...you had to key-on, purge the rail, key off, then start it on hot days. Went to a normal bypass type system with a return line and all those problems went away.

          I have run MS1 and MS2Extra (similar to Microsquirt) on my L-series engines for the last six years. One turbo, and one N/A, now supercharged. Both L28's, but close'nuff.
          Thanks for that mate!

          We plan to still fit the regulator in the engine bay. Its possible to mod the rail and fit a return, just more cost etc.

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            #35
            Originally posted by cracka View Post
            Tim, do they have a shared vacuum reference between them? Or does the MAP reference off one port? (thinking of acoustics and resonance gremlins)

            Also any pictures of the injector out and plug type? Info on flow rate or brand etc?

            Using those would be really cool on a 1uz and I reckon a fairly achievable exercise. Would make for great noise if it was NA
            They have at least vacuum port per runner and a shared map sensor. Injectors aren't huge, and the only drop in replacement is an S2000 Honda injector I believe. Plenty of options if you changed fuel rails etc. plugs can be snipped and soldered easy enough.

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              #36
              This is what I am using for 1UZ & V6 Moo:

              http://www.spitronics.co.za/

              They seem to have a good reputation in that part of the world.

              Cheaper than DIY Megasquirt, which I have also built. Exchange rate helps, too.
              They have a 1UZ kit & will do start-up/base map included for other applications.
              Works for me on a tight budget.

              Disclaimer: I am not dissing any of the Name brand/better known ECU's: this is what I can afford at the moment.

              I would probably go Motec if I could afford it, but can't.

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                #37
                Originally posted by motoxray View Post
                This is what I am using for 1UZ & V6 Moo:

                http://www.spitronics.co.za/

                They seem to have a good reputation in that part of the world.

                Cheaper than DIY Megasquirt, which I have also built. Exchange rate helps, too.
                They have a 1UZ kit & will do start-up/base map included for other applications.
                Works for me on a tight budget.

                Disclaimer: I am not dissing any of the Name brand/better known ECU's: this is what I can afford at the moment.

                I would probably go Motec if I could afford it, but can't.
                That 1UZ kit is seriously cheap, $406AUD all built with a loom, map sensor & 36-1 trigger wheel.... I'm tempted.

                What's the software like?

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                  #38
                  Ahh nice. Does the spacing/throttle plate measurements mean it lines up pretty well with the L20?

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                    #39
                    Its doable. We are just deciding how to mount them. A big part of me wants to just leave the spacing of the throttles alone and have a lower intake made that 'adapts' them to the engine.

                    There is the option of using the existing DCOE manifold and adapting that way.
                    These attach on bikes directly the head using 'manifolds' that look like this.
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                    This bolt pattern is awful close to DCOE from what I have read online. I have access to a undrilled freshly cast DCOE manifold that we could use.
                    The throttles would need to be between 10-20mm further apart. We'd need to modifty the linkages, fuel rail, wiring loom etc.

                    We would be making 1 thing easier, and then have to tidy up all the other stuff also (linkages, fuel rail etc).

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                      #40
                      yeah I imagined some form of adaptor. I reckon option 1 is the best to save yourself headaches later. just need someone that is good at making custom alloy up. this is going to be cool. better drive it into prime one day!

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by smithbro View Post
                        yeah I imagined some form of adaptor. I reckon option 1 is the best to save yourself headaches later. just need someone that is good at making custom alloy up. this is going to be cool. better drive it into prime one day!
                        Anthony will be driving to Centrelink and back most weeks.

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                          #42
                          Haha wow.

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by tim510 View Post
                            Anthony will be driving to Centrelink and back most weeks.
                            Haha, fair enough.

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by psi999 View Post
                              What's the software like?
                              I'm finding it pretty straight forward, & I'm no expert.
                              Their head electronics guy, I think his name is Ian Kotze, was also very helpful, as I asked for a slightly different configuration, which they were happy to for no extra dollars.
                              It can be set up to run the stock crank trigger, btw.

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                                #45
                                Will you be getting it dyno tuned or just using the software and a laptop on the street yourselves? (my mate did this with his Eunos)

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