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Microsquirt - Super Tight Budget EFI - Datsun L20B- Anyone got experience?

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    #61
    A mate of mine around the corner. Has a big bridgeport style mill and a rotary table.

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      #62
      Hey mate sorry I didn't get back to you with pics but that's exactly how I did my crank trigger wheel as well with the l20b pully. What crank sensor are you using? I found that with the gt101 im using having a 36-1 trigger wheel made the tooth gap too close for the sensor to pickup so had to go to a 12-1 configuration.

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        #63
        I have a subaru sensor that JZK25 gave us, I think it will be too wide like your issue.. We are going to get a EL/AU falcon sensor I think.

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          #64
          The sensor may be wide but it still has a small central probe point for the iron core that picks up the tooth. The outer part is the winding that creates the voltage.
          David Fraser - Automotive Historian!

          Originally posted by bigmuz
          You can't polish a turd but you can put 600hp in it and laugh your fucking arse off coming past someone sideways at Powercruise.

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            #65
            I will bench test I think

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              #66
              I would stick to some of the small car ford sensors. if you have a lathe and drill press and a file, I can show you how to lay out a trigger wheel for any number of teeth and how to correct the teeth to under half a degreen error.

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                #67
                Yeah my issue with the 101 was it need's a minimum 10mm gap between each tooth I was lucky to have 5 with the 36-1 setup. Its 24-1 now too not 12 like I wrote above lol the falcon abs sensors are a lot smaller.

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                  #68
                  Originally posted by Xnke View Post
                  I would stick to some of the small car ford sensors. if you have a lathe and drill press and a file, I can show you how to lay out a trigger wheel for any number of teeth and how to correct the teeth to under half a degreen error.
                  A close mate has who is retired mill with a rotary table. Simples.

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                    #69
                    I run the falcon VR sensor (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EF-EL-AU-...5e3e41f&_uhb=1) with a custom 36-1 wheel on my Pontiac balancer triggering an MS3 - no issues at all and was a piece of piss to setup the MS. I originally setup the Tooth #1 Angle to be 10BTDC (sensor was pointed at the next tooth from the missing tooth when crank @ #1 TDC firing) and then for shits/giggles clocked the wheel 90 as it bolts to the balancer with 4 bolts and changed the offset to from 10 to 100 and it still ran fine. With 10 or 100 tooth angle, I found my timing was 4 out from commanded advance with a timing light which was an easy fix. When using toothed wheels and MS, to getting the tooth angle perfect to the balancer timing mark, you just setup the MS for fixed timing at say 20 so it ignores the ignition table (timing tape or markings every 10 on the balancer works great here), check where the timing is on the balancer and move the tooth #1 angle accordingly to compensate. It's easy shit so I wouldn't worry too much about indexing the wheel perfectly.

                    Just make sure your trigger edge is correct and the VR sensor cable is twin core shielded with the shield terminated at the MS end of the loom only etc... Clean wiring and grounds are paramount to MS's.
                    Originally posted by Motherfucker Jones
                    If you can't appreciate that then you are more narrow minded than the most mulleted, flanno, thong wearing, thong slapping, 253 owning, southern cross tatted, fuck off
                    we're full stickered, VB drinking bogan you'll ever meet

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                      #70
                      Originally posted by krisr View Post
                      I run the falcon VR sensor (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EF-EL-AU-...5e3e41f&_uhb=1) with a custom 36-1 wheel on my Pontiac balancer triggering an MS3 - no issues at all and was a piece of piss to setup the MS. I originally setup the Tooth #1 Angle to be 10BTDC (sensor was pointed at the next tooth from the missing tooth when crank @ #1 TDC firing) and then for shits/giggles clocked the wheel 90 as it bolts to the balancer with 4 bolts and changed the offset to from 10 to 100 and it still ran fine. With 10 or 100 tooth angle, I found my timing was 4 out from commanded advance with a timing light which was an easy fix. When using toothed wheels and MS, to getting the tooth angle perfect to the balancer timing mark, you just setup the MS for fixed timing at say 20 so it ignores the ignition table (timing tape or markings every 10 on the balancer works great here), check where the timing is on the balancer and move the tooth #1 angle accordingly to compensate. It's easy shit so I wouldn't worry too much about indexing the wheel perfectly.

                      Just make sure your trigger edge is correct and the VR sensor cable is twin core shielded with the shield terminated at the MS end of the loom only etc... Clean wiring and grounds are paramount to MS's.

                      Cheers mate,
                      That is the sensor I have in mind. All the wiring is the wiring supplied for the Microsquirt. I've basically finished the loom, just need the crank sensor and connector to complete it. Waiting for the manifold and once it is ready final assembly can begin.

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                        #71
                        When I was looking for the connector I could never find one so flogged one from an AU at the wrecker with about 12" of wire..... Now I find this - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-OEM-Q...112478c&_uhb=1
                        Originally posted by Motherfucker Jones
                        If you can't appreciate that then you are more narrow minded than the most mulleted, flanno, thong wearing, thong slapping, 253 owning, southern cross tatted, fuck off
                        we're full stickered, VB drinking bogan you'll ever meet

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                          #72
                          Small update, no pics.

                          We and saw the inlet manifold after final mock up. The old bloke has done an awesome job as usual! He's putting on a vacuum bar across all cylinders instead of using the baked-bean can.

                          ECU, fuse + relay panel is all done, and mounted in the car. Just need to feed it IGN 12v+ and hookup tacho etc. Wiring for the engine bay is 75% done, just need to terminate a few things..

                          The AU falcon crank sensor arrived, it looks much more suitable for our application. The brother is making a bracket to mount it at the moment. So with a bit of luck in a few weeks this thing might be running...

                          Fingers cross the el-cheapo shit ECU works!

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                            #73
                            So the manifold is all done. It twisted a little when he did the final braising of the vacuum bar across the top. He had to mill it again and re-jig it. The old bloke was none-too-impressed.

                            We have now mocked up the air filter. The top hat started life as a 10mm piece of alloy, and he milled a 6mm recess into the underside to give it a lip to locate the outside edge of the air filter. the bolts are in place to hold the inside of the filter where it needs to be. It needs some more drilling and tapping etc.




                            My brother made a bracket to hold some LS1 coils in place and Scott @ Cleveland Exhaust welded it in place for us. Thanks Scott!! The leads are just stock length LS1 leads ($25 for 8x)




                            While the old bloke had the head, he CC'd the combustion chambers for me. 42cc . So with that news it means we now know the compression ratio up around 11-11.5:1.

                            Our headgasket and some other parts are in transit. Once they arrive it can start to be assembled.

                            The throttles sit quite high now compared to DCOE's, the air filter only just clears the bonnet. With that in mind, I am looking at getting it running with a return less type fuel system. I don't have the extra parts I need to make it a return system.

                            My brother has been ticking off his jobs one by one on the car. The fuel pump (a used spare 044 copy I donated) has been plumbed into the existing fuel system. The tank pickup being used is the old fuel drain bung with a banjo bolt fitted. A high flow, low pressure glass filter is between the pickup and pump to keep an eye on tank crud. He found a brake vacuum tank from a hilux at the wreckers and that is now installed instead of the JB-weld dennis tin-can.

                            lots happening!

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                              #74
                              Is that a CC and soda?
                              Jason Broadhurst

                              Someone once asked me if they could use my mower. I said "sure, so long as it doesn't leave my yard"

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                                #75
                                Looks good

                                coil bracket and tight arse leads also came up mint

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