Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Motec RB knocking issue

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    I can't see how a sensor from 1989 can sense 360 pulses per cam rev accurately, so it'll be resigned to ref signal only in the future.
    You have the advantage of Toyota reliability Bill!

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by Komdotkom View Post
      Put a new cas on it and its heaps better, still can't get more than 8 degrees timing into it at peak torque but it's much better than previously.
      I checked the stability during free rev with the timing locked on 10 and it wanders about 3 degrees. I'll make a crank trigger in the next few weeks I think.
      Thanks for the input gents, much appreciated.
      so only a CAS change and you can get 8deg timing in it.. so 6 deg more.. whats the bet it has more like 12-14 deg if you actually put a light on it when under load..

      but a nissan CAS is the best
      im a cunt
      and apparently i dont know shit...

      Comment


        #18
        Are you getting any ref sync errors in the logging or on the dyno? If not, it is not a cas issue.

        Comment


          #19
          Our dyno hack is a stock rb20, should have a decent map for it at work for 98... timing might be Interesting to compare

          Comment


            #20
            its because you aren't running over 40psi now

            Comment


              #21
              I think some people are confusing mechanical slop/freeplay of the whole timing train/ cas drive with theoretical acracy of the geometry of the trigger wheel itself. Can still get massive timing scatter vs true crank ref without any ecu triggering errors.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by Slides View Post
                theoretical acracy of the geometry of the trigger wheel itself
                theory is a wounder full thing, in reality nissan CAS is in-accurate and prone to faults. all ecu manufactures support them but quality ecu manufactures alloy you to replace them with a crank trigger and all problems then disappear..
                im a cunt
                and apparently i dont know shit...

                Comment


                  #23
                  Faults........ like when the locator breaks off? lol

                  Comment


                    #24
                    I'm betting luke would give you massive fellatio to help him sort out a GT101 and a chopper wheel on the front of the VH41 kinga.

                    Fucking stupid nissan shit is retarded, in my wholley comprehensive experience of head scratching with one single nissan engine.
                    Originally posted by Bosshoggett
                    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by dougmo View Post
                      its because you aren't running over 40psi now
                      Yeah but it was only on the dyno for 10 hrs, what do you expect? The more I look at the map, the more fucking horrible shit I find - it's amazing how much they didn't even look at.

                      So below is the Ref/Sync Setup that was put in by the "Expert" that tuned it. This was not the way I had it set initially.



                      And this is the way that it's setup in Jamie's dyno pig RB20 ( but that's for an Mx00 not an M84 if that makes any difference )


                      And here is the timing map from the Motec dyno pig. As you can see it's taking heaps more timing.




                      Having looked around on the interweb it seems that a crank trigger won't hard to do, and given my previous experiences with the gains provided I'll probably go that way. As I've said before when I changed my CA18 to crank trigger it was a completely different car, even sounded different. That's with a simple 2 tooth trigger.
                      I'll probably get a 36-1 trigger from the Uk, I can't really be bothered making one.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Sorry, haven't had much time to really look at this, but I can have a go now...

                        there is no doubt that a trigger on the crankshaft is more accurate that one hanging off the end of additional pulleys, chains, belts, etc.
                        No one would suggest otherwise.
                        I would say, though, that I have had the stock CAS sensor on RB, as well as the optical sensor on SR20's used without issue for many years. What I mean by without issues is that they are reliable in my usage, and seem to work fine.

                        How much does it vary? Well that depends on the amount of slack in the drive from the crank to the CAS. None of this is rocket science. I cant say exactly how much variation I see on an engine in this state, as I haven't done much testing on this. If you engine is really critical on engine timing, and you want to run it right on the limit, then a crank trigger may be for you.

                        A crank trigger is obviously simple to setup on the MoTeC software, and I can show you how if required. the hard part is the mechanical installation.

                        I can say that the implementation of a crank trigger can be so badly done that it introduces more issues than it solves (poor fabrication, alignment, wiring and materials etc). This means that for many, leaving the factory setup in there can be better.

                        A method you could do to test this is to put the MoTeC ECU into the locked timing mode (Crank index position mode at say 20btdc) then start the engine, and watch the timing with a timing light. Rev it up, let it fall, and watch how much variance you are getting on the timing light versus the 20 deg marker.

                        Other things I would do at this point - (I know some are obvious, but just trying to make sure of the basics)
                        1) check the timing mark on the engine. verify that TDC on the pulley is actually TDC on the engine
                        2) Ensure that the fuel you are using is actually what you think it is. My SR20 could only get around 7deg before serious knock on 98, but 24+ on E85.
                        3) Make sure that the sound that you are hearing is actually knock, if you can. Perhaps borrow a SKM if you can to verify this. We don't want to be chasing something that isn't what it seems.
                        4) Ensure you know your compression in reality (I had a similar issue on an engine with 12.5:1 comp - which actually ended up having more than 16:1 when we measured it!)

                        Cant think what else right now. I am happy for you to drop in to MoTeC to go over what is on our work hack if you are in the area....

                        -Jamie

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Hi Jamie,

                          Thanks for the offer, I'll let you know if I'm out near Motec during business hours I'd love to run through it in a bit more detail.
                          With regard to the stability of the timing, the mark moves around 3 degrees over the rev range when the timing is set to a static value.
                          I agree that the cam angle sensor should be more than capable in this application, I just don't seem to have much luck with these sensors. I've got a few GT101's lying around so I'll have a look at fabricating a crank trigger mount on my spare engine so that I can ensure the mounting is 100% stable.
                          I'm fairly happy with where the car is now in terms of driveability, it's more a matter of making sure the numbers are "right" in the Motec. I'll double check the other items on your list to be 100% sure but I'm pretty confident that it's all ok.

                          The dyno pig CAS setup is different to the one I'm running, does that have any bearing on things or is it much of a muchness? Ie sensor type 12 or 10?

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X