ECU Tunes and Installs

[trdee]

Doing some digging, man there is sparse info on what a 2GR actually needs to run. have either of you fucked around with one of these engines before? If so, can you just lay out what needs to be connected to what in terms of cam and crank triggers to make the cunt run? I can probably work it out from there but atm i dont know if sensors need to go to the cam trigger or SPIs or what, and whether the person who originaly wired this thing up has done it correctly at all

[10sec rx7]

Never done a 2gr but it will be reluctor on the crank 36-2, tdc ref 520

[Jason Broadhurst]

Scope time bro

[Aaron]

Thoughts on crimping AMP/Superseals etc?

Have a loom here that is pulling apart at the connector crimps - when I popped the connectors apart I find only the actual conductor is crimped and the seal/insulation isn't.







I was always under the impression the seal & insulation should be crimped to take mechanical strain but yet this loom doesn't even have the seals held in place.

No big deal to fix it up and with some tweaks to routing etc there won't be the same strain on things but it just seems like a bit of a risk. As I have a couple of these looms to work with at the moment am thinking of crimping up everything "properly" although having trouble working out exactly what that means.

Land Rover for example use these and recommend a tight crimp, TE/AMP who make them don't show the crimp being a tight as LR do but indicated the seal should be held in place.

[Jason Broadhurst]

The rear crimp is designed to grab and hold the green seal piece.

If you are not worried about water ingress, trim the rear crimp back and have it just grab the insulator for good mechanical relief.

[kickerzx]

Saw the same thing on a oem Merc harness a few days ago..

[garvice]

Packard crimpers do a round crimp on the rear seal not am crimp. I.e. how that looks is normal. It grabs the seal but doesn't deform it.

[Aaron]

Garvice, that probably explains part of the issue. They're crimped round for sure but not even snug on the seal/insulation.

The TE/AMP doco shows the crimp being more closed than what they are and LR doco shows them down with a conventional crimper and turned in.
The latter is what I've always done, or just crimped insulation and pushed the seals in.

Might invest in a round/hex die set for the future.

[Jason Broadhurst]

My indent crimps grab the seal and fold in a bit on it but not as drastically as the conductor.

[trdee]

well it turns out the engine timing was wrong on the 2GR... havent been round since to check things out

In the meantime I have made some progress on my 9A. We bored out the injector adapters and pushed the injectors as far down the ports as possible, and this seems to have resolved the part throttle lean-out issues and the car made a healthy 300rwkw at 24psi, which is nice. I did notice one funky thing though and that is that the fuel pressure was fluctuating significantly on the E85 run, but not the petrol run. Some have suggested it could be water hammer (the rail does not have a fuel pressure damper fitted at the moment). I'm open to suggestions/theories

98 octane tune - fuel pressure in purple



E85 tune - fuel pressure in purple



The AFR trace (red) doesnt go crazy, and E85 is a "safer" fuel in terms of lean outs I guess, so I am not terrified of this, but it's definitely something I want to resolve.

[TRD-MX62]

What fuel pump?

[trdee]

Walbro 460. the lines and wiring are both stock, which wouldnt help, but the pressure is jumping around rather than gradually dropping off so i didnt think it would be reaching the limit of flow. could be wrong though..

[lukevl]

Thoughts on crimping AMP/Superseals etc?

Have a loom here that is pulling apart at the connector crimps - when I popped the connectors apart I find only the actual conductor is crimped and the seal/insulation isn't.







I was always under the impression the seal & insulation should be crimped to take mechanical strain but yet this loom doesn't even have the seals held in place.

No big deal to fix it up and with some tweaks to routing etc there won't be the same strain on things but it just seems like a bit of a risk. As I have a couple of these looms to work with at the moment am thinking of crimping up everything "properly" although having trouble working out exactly what that means.

Land Rover for example use these and recommend a tight crimp, TE/AMP who make them don't show the crimp being a tight as LR do but indicated the seal should be held in place.

I just borrowed Jason's brand new Engineer open barrel crimpers shown below and they were pimp for that sort of stuff. I have a bussman fuse and relay block and they used the same seals as you have there and as Jason said I grabbed the seal and the insulation with the rear crimp. Worked a treat.

While I was there Jason crimped a few different wire loops using these and regular open splice joiners like below and King Arthur couldn't pull them apart. He has the good shit!

[Aaron]

Yeah I think I’m going to buy a full set of the Engineer crimpers eventually.

I ended up using my regular non-insulated crimpers and using the larger die on the seal/tails and it went together really well.

With luck I will never have to touch an OMEX loom or ECU again.

[Aaron]

Strangely my favourite crimpers for non-insulated thus far are the Jaycar $14.95 non-ratcheting kind.

Do a nice job and easy to use and a bit more flexible than some of the others I have.