Originally posted by trdee
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Originally posted by TRD-MX62 View Post460L/hr at what pressure tho?
The same pump is supporting 400kw on my mates engine with 35psi base pressure/30psi boost, so 75 total.
yeah slides fuel pulsation has been suggested by andy, but he and others wondered at the fact that the pressure doesnt go up, only down.1988 AW11 9A-GTE - project #1 | 1984 MA61 1JZ-GTE - project #2
Originally posted by Walt Kowalski talking like a crazed hoboThe major arrests will start from 1st January 2019.
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5V rail(s) in ecu/system voltage holds steady?
Not seeing significantly higher peaks will be a combo of system dynamics and the sampling issue, if the reg is going to a sealed state as you are on the limit of dynamic flow it will probably bounce back a bit or float up with reestablished flow with injector (s) shutting from a seated position from the pressure drop so the "high" cycle is mechanically clipped by the diaphragm bouncing back rather than settling in the seat and stabilising before the positive flow/pressure wave from injector close.
Probably worth running new pump wiring you could be loosing a fair wack of real flow there heating wires instead of turning the pump.
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there is no way you need another pump at 300kw. as stated the 460's should do 400kw worth of e85 without much trouble.
was going to suggest finding out how much voltage was actually reaching the pump.
those walbro axial pumps are quite inefficient and their pressure handling falls away big time at lower voltages.
if you have a pwm speed controller driving it they also surge quite badly at low speeds.
its the main reason I steered clear of them and went for a Pierburg screw pump.Oo___oO
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Voltage at pump is a good idea to check I guess. The bulkhead for the pump into the tank is not accessible without removing the tank from the car unfortunately, but I think the connector from the body loom to the tank sits just under the centre console so hopefully it isnt too hard to stick a multi there.
I wonder how much an F1 style fuel flow sensor costs. Then I could directly check if I have a problem with flow haha
edit - no PWM control. pump is run at full speed using a jaycar spec relay with some fat wiring from the battery to the terminal in the fusebox, after which it is the stock wiring in the body loom down to the fuel tank and pump1988 AW11 9A-GTE - project #1 | 1984 MA61 1JZ-GTE - project #2
Originally posted by Walt Kowalski talking like a crazed hoboThe major arrests will start from 1st January 2019.
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I looked into them a while ago, I was going to install one on the regulator return to the tank and run the fuel pump speed in closed loop to maintain a fixed tank return rate.
unfortunately as soon as you say ethanol most of them are not suitable. and their un-restrictive flow rate limit isn't amazing.Oo___oO
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Im going to go with standard wiring from the fuse box being the issue here. According to the above chart, at 25psi boost you would be drawing close to 18 amps. I don't know about Toyota's but with Nissans the first thing we do when running a decent size pump is upgrade the wiring and run a direct feed from the battery all the way to the tank. Even if it isn't your issue, probably a good idea to redo the wiring so its 100% capable of handling the load.
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I don't do a lot of mechanical work, because it's usually quite menial, but when it is so closely related to the configuration and setup of the engine management I sometimes make exceptions.
Enter Sam's 911 fit with a later model motor complete with an early version of Bosch electronic injection and ignition. The vehicles of the era were plagued with the now known flawed trapdoor design air flow meter, along with not a very smart fuel algorithm.
This is planned to be remedied with the inclusion of some Jenvey ITB's and a new ECU to control the massively upgraded intake. The first step towards maximum bort, but it involves assembly of the ITB's, with is not a trivial ask.

The throttle is in 3 pieces. First we bolt the generic throttle to the Porsche head flange. This is done with an O-ring seal between the two Jenvey pieces, and a square O-ring seal to the head. A small amount of medium strength high temp thread lock compound was applied to each bolt for posterity.


Next, the top of the throttle receives a spacer/bracket plate sandwiched between the throttle body and the trumpet. The top of the throttle has no O-ring groove, nor does the underside of the spacer/bracket plate, so a thin smear of sealant was applied. The trumpet was then bolted down with and identical O-ring seal as the bottom throttle body flange.
Note sexy uniform squish, and repeat 6 times while being sure you have the right throttle and bracket bolted up (each throttle unique).




The fuel injectors and fuel rail can be fit. The fuel injectors are simply secured by the fuel rail. Each fuel rail is mounted on 2 cast machined brackets off of the outer two throttles of each bank. This is never easy, but everything fit nicely and lined up first try.


The throttle body brackets were now populated with a bunch of double ended rose joint links, pivot brackets and linkages. The quality of the kit really stands out here, with everything being tight and superbly bushed or rose jointed.

Now they are assembled, I think I will replace some of the hex pan head screws with some larger hex versions. I also need to change the size of a washer or two to satisfy my OCD with the OD of items and then a inconsistent step.
The inlet is out, so I'll upload that process later and start on installation!Jason Broadhurst
Someone once asked me if they could use my mower. I said "sure, so long as it doesn't leave my yard"
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What regulator does it have? There is a good bit more on E85 of fuel pressure. Regulator maybe failing? Hence pressure dropping. Acting like a water hammer. Just a thought.Originally posted by trdee View PostHave not gone and checked the signal wiring but I dont think it is the issue as the fuel pressure is stable at all other times
AFR does seem to go a bit lean on E85. It doesnt jump around like the fuel pressure, it just gets progressively leaner. Torque and power are smooth
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i have a brand new turbosmart FPR800 v2. water hammer is quite likely which is why i just recently bought a radium engineering inline fuel pressure damper
will let you all know if it fixes the issue
1988 AW11 9A-GTE - project #1 | 1984 MA61 1JZ-GTE - project #2
Originally posted by Walt Kowalski talking like a crazed hoboThe major arrests will start from 1st January 2019.
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20v 4A's don't have dampers, and I am using a custom top feed rail anyway. so no damper1988 AW11 9A-GTE - project #1 | 1984 MA61 1JZ-GTE - project #2
Originally posted by Walt Kowalski talking like a crazed hoboThe major arrests will start from 1st January 2019.
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