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long term econ tests: aftermarket coils and other stuff

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    #16
    Originally posted by dnegative View Post
    In 1986 fuel was around 50c/L according to the Queensland government, average national wage was around $450

    Average wage 29 years later is around $1150, so all things considered, 50c a liter back in '86 is $1.27 a litre in today's money;
    ULP has ranged from $1.20L to $1.40L in 2015 so its about as cheap as it was back in the day.....

    rose tinted glasses
    You actually have to go back to 1977 before you got fuel under 18c/L
    Is it crazy how saying sentences backwards creates backwards sentences saying how crazy it is?

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      #17
      198k on my ba xt no pics sedan. Unsure if the plugs have ever been done. Mate from bpt motor sport did a 15 min tune and now it's down to 8l highway driving at 115kmh. Round town nopics gets 15l. Will be doing plugs coils and oxy sensor soon then more lean cruise. Also hauls ass for a bog stocker pos

      Sent from my HTC_0P6B using Tapatalk

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        #18
        Originally posted by Vagina View Post
        Don't change the diff the diff is set up for the gearbox there is three available in the XR6.

        If you really are interested in fuel saving sell your ute and buy a FG ecolpi 6 speed auto ute.
        The other day while masturbating over my copy of the BA workshop manual i came across the same info. <--see what i did there. 'masturbate' - 'came'

        Anyways, i read there are 3 versions of the 6speed boxs. having to do with i6, 6T and V8.
        Would appreciate some technical info Vagina, because back in the day when one of the most awesomest things you could do was whack a celica 5speed box into your holden or ford, no one had any issues with compatibility between different box gearing and diff ratios. You just drooled over a 5speed and lower diff ratio and went and did it, no probs.

        What issues will result if i stick in a 6speed and low ratio diff?

        Yes i really am interested in better econ, but i am also really interested in doing this with me ute.
        Multiple interests combined, not just econ. If my only interest was econ i woulda bought a 4cyl buzzbox onLP
        Would not own an auto either. Jezus, hooning\sports driving in an auto...where's the fukn enjoyment in that!
        "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by RB30-POWER View Post
          In relation to the diff when I swapped my 3.07 to 3.46 I improved my around town mileage, but highway mileage suffered, because the car could lock the torque converter from 50km/h in 4th instead of 70km/h that's where the major gain came from, but on the highway the increase revs at higher speeds, makes the car suffer, if you stuck at 90km/h and kept revs under 2k rpm you might do ok, but put her on 120 or so on the cruise and it revs 2500rpm or so.

          I would say a gain of up to 1l/100 around town and a loss of 1l/100 on the highway

          That is in my old commodore with 4l60e 4 speed.

          I guess the advantage of new 6+ speed automatic cars that they lock the torque converter in more/lower gears and is a big advantage and you still get the low freeway speed rpms as well.
          I imagine the new autos would also be sending a ton of data back to the ECU, thus serious issues could result from improper or mismatched conversions, depending on how the ECU works and if it's reprogrammable or not.
          And i imagine today's autos when driven sedately would be more economical than manuals.

          Hey, seeing as you're the 2nd person to talk about autos...are more people today running autos than manuals?
          And if so, please, guyn n girls, no more auto talk as imma dedicated manual bloke, thus autos will not be part of the econ equations.
          "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by Dark Orange View Post
            When compared to what you get for your money, petrol *is* cheap.

            Imagine you have run out of fuel 10km from a servo. Stop and think about how much energy you would spend pushing your car the whole distance. All of that energy you expended could be accomplished by $1.50 worth of petrol, which is under half the cost of a bottle of water.


            Having said that, I approve of your testing methods and what you are doing.
            Cheers.

            Haha, i like your thinking processes...so, joining in, the more car pushing i had to do, thus i would become stronger, fitter, healthier and i would save on gym membership,
            would maybe give up smokes, beer and junk food as i became aware of how much better life was being healthier, would spend less on medical\medications,
            i would always have my own water supply on me, no need to be severely ripped off at the shops with bottled water.

            Sure, a one off incident of pushing me car, petrol is cheap, but long term, which is what most people experience with their vehicles, is where the benefits really pay off...
            hmm...perhaps the ultimate econ goal is to have a Flintstone's type car with me pushing it everywhere instead of having a petrol engine.
            Someone should invent a vehicle that runs off muscle power.
            "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

            Comment


              #21
              Jezus, run out of time. Imma off to Lonnie again in a sec.
              Due to discovering this on monday, i'm getting thorough inspection on whole car, 'cus there may be other issues from previous owner's prang that may be more severe than he said.
              Mech said looks like both mounts were sheared off in strong impact and not from typical wear and tear breakage.
              Car runs and drives good, but imma now curious to see if there is other underlying damage.

              Will get back to responses this arvie or tomorrow morn.
              "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by Vagina View Post
                Don't change the diff the diff is set up for the gearbox there is three available in the XR6.
                I'm 90% confident that is incorrect when talking about non turbo 4 BA 4 speed boxes.

                Even the speedo will still read correctly because it runs off the ABS wheel sensors (unless you have a non-ABS model)

                I do remember reading something about issues with cruise control or something though, but regardless you can get the diff ratio changed in the ECU when you get it tuned.
                Originally posted by myshortyboomba
                I've had many gauges in cars. I always found the conrods react faster than a gauge.

                you can always hear them when they break and they stop the engine immediately so you can't do any more damage.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Hey, check this out...just about done me 1st tank test, kinda safe to say the reading will be 12.2L\100K.
                  But more specific numbers when i chew up the last 60Ks worth.
                  Way better than 13.4 when the old coils were in, and yes new Gossies are working fine.
                  So obviously still something gone off , 'cus i was expecting it to reach 11.3 if it was just coils..

                  Checked me car journal, K&N filter is only 2000Ks old, so that should still be clean, but i've never cleaned a K&N so...
                  Possibly O2 sensor is slowly dying like coils were.

                  But as i said, check this out...had to head back into lonnie to get socketset parts to reach last plug.
                  Did that this morning and rechecked plug tighteness all round...while putting this back on...

                  ...i first assumed, when i did Gossy installs, that the rubber sleeve(right arrow) was part of the alloy inlet port, and the plastic piping just sat tight into the rubber.
                  Closer inspection this morning and the rubber is meant to slide over the alloy port and is actually moulded onto the plastic piping.

                  Well mine isn't. Possibly another victim from the same problem that sheared both engine mounts off, the plastic has sheared off from the rubber,
                  therefore as the engine moves about, air and dirt(and one unfortunate lady bug) is being sucked into the inlet manifold between the rubber and plastic.

                  So imma do another tank's worth run with that fixed and full clean and re-oil of K&N filter.
                  Then next on the list is replace O2 sensor and continue testing.
                  "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by Fraud View Post
                    I'm 90% confident that is incorrect when talking about non turbo 4 BA 4 speed boxes.

                    Even the speedo will still read correctly because it runs off the ABS wheel sensors (unless you have a non-ABS model)

                    I do remember reading something about issues with cruise control or something though, but regardless you can get the diff ratio changed in the ECU when you get it tuned.
                    i thought BA was still the same as AU which is a different coloured gear in the gearbox speedo drive depending on diff ratio - I had to swap mine when I put a ute gearbox into my AU2

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by Jay17 View Post
                      Hey, check this out...just about done me 1st tank test, kinda safe to say the reading will be 12.2L\100K.
                      But more specific numbers when i chew up the last 60Ks worth.
                      Way better than 13.4 when the old coils were in, and yes new Gossies are working fine.
                      So obviously still something gone off , 'cus i was expecting it to reach 11.3 if it was just coils..

                      Checked me car journal, K&N filter is only 2000Ks old, so that should still be clean, bu ti've never cleaned a K&N so...
                      Possibly O2 sensor is slowly dying like coils were.

                      But as i said, check this out...had to head back into lonnie to get socketset parts to reach last plug.
                      Did that this morning and rechecked plug tighteness all round...while putting this back on...

                      ...i first assumed, when i did Gossy installs, that the rubber sleeve(right arrow) was part of the alloy inlet port, and the plastic piping just sat tight into the rubber.
                      Closer inspection this morning and the rubber is meant to slide over the alloy port and is actually moulded onto the plastic piping.

                      Well mine isn't. Possibly another victim from the same problem that sheared both engine mounts off, the plastic has sheared off from the rubber,
                      therefore as the engine moves about, air and dirt(and one unfortunate lady bug) is being sucked into the inlet manifold between the rubber and plastic.

                      So imma do another tank's worth run with that fixed and full clean and re-oil of K&N filter.
                      Then next on the list is replace O2 sensor and continue testing.
                      What kind of air flow meter does the ford have. If it's a hotwire afm then this could be your problem.
                      Get your hands off my penis!

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Uses a map sensor, cleaning the throttle body is also worth doing. Best doing it with 2 people, 1 to use the pedal to open it and 1 to clean it
                        you cant spell advertisements without semen between the tits

                        Comment


                          #27
                          fwiw



                          Toy. 2006 GT-P, economy has stayed largely the same from, brand new and dead stock (230rwkw), through diff changes (2.73 -> 3.45 -> 3.93), n/a builds (up to 300rwkw), new engine (5.4L -> 5.8L), and supercharger (410rwkw). The large peaks are track days / powercruises / hillclimbs etc.


                          Daily. 1998 LTD, 5.0L, 97rwkw (lol)


                          Long term average for both are 15.16 and 15.21 L/100 respectively.
                          It's not what you drive, it's how you drive.
                          GT-P
                          Bandsenkowagon

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by dnegative View Post
                            In 1986 fuel was around 50c/L according to the Queensland government, average national wage was around $450

                            Average wage 29 years later is around $1150, so all things considered, 50c a liter back in '86 is $1.27 a litre in today's money;
                            ULP has ranged from $1.20L to $1.40L in 2015 so its about as cheap as it was back in the day.....

                            rose tinted glasses
                            I am in agreement...many gov departments will attempt to convince us things are way rosey.
                            Any incorrect stats publicly shared is either to quell any potential backlash from the working class for the systematic bloodsucking they seem to enjoy,
                            or they are covering up their mistakes that has cost the working class,
                            or they are trying to convince us they are handling the country better than the opposition did.
                            "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by Dark Orange View Post
                              You actually have to go back to 1977 before you got fuel under 18c/L
                              Jezus, i just rechecked my calculations..
                              it wasn't '86, it was '79 when i was 17 and filling up me XT thumpa 500, and the fuel was $0.17L.
                              Possibly on special, but that's the only memory i can recall from back then of fuel prices.

                              I still stand by my other calcs that fuel is not cheap today.
                              "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by Hjtonner View Post
                                198k on my ba xt no pics sedan. Unsure if the plugs have ever been done. Mate from bpt motor sport did a 15 min tune and now it's down to 8l highway driving at 115kmh. Round town nopics gets 15l. Will be doing plugs coils and oxy sensor soon then more lean cruise. Also hauls ass for a bog stocker pos

                                Sent from my HTC_0P6B using Tapatalk
                                Chatting with brother on mainland, he runs a bog standard BA wagon.
                                He's got a reasonable sized lead foot, he started off at 10L\100K, and not too concerned about econ, he's never kept an eye on it over the last coupla years,
                                while chatting he went and checked, he's now at 14L, but has noticed engine getting worse over time.
                                10L the way he drives is pretty impressive.

                                I bought good air intake-rubber flanged pipe from wreckers and serviced K&N last friday( even though it's only done 2000Ks),
                                within 20-40Ks, dropped from 12.2 to 12.0L per

                                O2 sensor is booked for 1st week in Jan as although since Goss coils install engine is running better, there's still a slight lurching at low speeds.
                                "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

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