long term econ tests: aftermarket coils and other stuff

[Jay17]

What kind of air flow meter does the ford have. If it's a hotwire afm then this could be your problem.

Don't know, will add that to list of things to research, as i will be replacing everything related to engine management, subject to price and others expert\experiential knowledge on what dies and what lasts.

[Jay17]

Uses a map sensor, cleaning the throttle body is also worth doing. Best doing it with 2 people, 1 to use the pedal to open it and 1 to clean it

Yep, throttle body, inlet manifold and associated parts all getting expert clean at mechs early Jan.
Same time as O2 sensor replacement.

Son is visiting in Jan, wants to do shitloads of sightseeing, so getting all that done before we do a ton of driving.

[Jay17]

I'm 90% confident that is incorrect when talking about non turbo 4 BA 4 speed boxes.

Even the speedo will still read correctly because it runs off the ABS wheel sensors (unless you have a non-ABS model)

I do remember reading something about issues with cruise control or something though, but regardless you can get the diff ratio changed in the ECU when you get it tuned.

I imagine any compatibility issues has to do with all the electronics regarding gearbox, though can't see how diff ratio changes would be a prob.

[Jay17]

Okay... so did a full tank run since Gossy install, did ECU reset, checked all plugs set to 1.1mm, also installed top of the range Bosch battery.
12.2L\100K...8.3kpl...23.44mpg
start of the year was running 25.4mpg
average thru year before coils got real bad was 23.67

As mentioned earlier, replaced damaged air intake pipe, and did service on K& N filter.
100Ks on new tank of fuel, currently doing 12.0L per.
Wedsneday doing a 550K return run to Smithton for a bonnet swap, so that will be a good drive to see how the engine's doin'.

No more work till 4th Jan.
O2 sensor, power steering needs some work.
Then do a couple tanks of testing, then do throttle body n inlet manifold clean.

[Jay17]

Did a 600K run to woop woop far northwest for me new bonnet.
Good mixture of terrain though 70% hiway speeds.
Did 9.1kpl...25.7mpg...close to and ever so slightly better than econ at the beginnng of year 9kpl...25.4mpg.

But i do recall at start of year( before i started logging data)...2 days worth of hi-way drivin' to Hobart and north Tassie getting mags n shit,
and it dropped to 11.1L\100K..approx 700Ks a tank instead of the usual 640-600 of late...which equates to 9.86kpl...27.8mpg
So i'm still workin' towards that

The avg is still high at 11.8L\100K, but i suspect a lot of tanks are required to get it down,
so i won't be using that as a correct measurement on a tank by tank basis.
Ute was 11.3 when i got it, so maybe it takes months of driving to get an accurate avg.

So now i am a smidge up on econ levels from start of year, it's now time to get it even lower.
1st week in Jan, O2 sensor replacement and rebuild of whatever's fucked with power steering, as it's leaking a tad and groans a bit while reversing full lock.
Apparantly the BA's, MKI at least, have powersteering issues.

[Rdyno]

The other day while masturbating over my copy of the BA workshop manual i came across the same info. <--see what i did there. 'masturbate' - 'came'

Anyways, i read there are 3 versions of the 6speed boxs. having to do with i6, 6T and V8.
Would appreciate some technical info Vagina, because back in the day when one of the most awesomest things you could do was whack a celica 5speed box into your holden or ford, no one had any issues with compatibility between different box gearing and diff ratios. You just drooled over a 5speed and lower diff ratio and went and did it, no probs.

What issues will result if i stick in a 6speed and low ratio diff?

Yes i really am interested in better econ, but i am also really interested in doing this with me ute.
Multiple interests combined, not just econ. If my only interest was econ i woulda bought a 4cyl buzzbox onLP
Would not own an auto either. Jezus, hooning\sports driving in an auto...where's the fukn enjoyment in that!

The autos are electronic and get the speed signal from the tail shaft the speedo might run off the wheel speed but the gear changes run off the output of the box. They select the right ratio of final for the ratios of the gearbox for maximum efficiency changing the final ratio will most likely reduce fuel econ.

[ls400x]

Good read, makes me feel better about my 11-13L/100km 1uz/LS400.

[Jay17]

The autos are electronic and get the speed signal from the tail shaft the speedo might run off the wheel speed but the gear changes run off the output of the box. They select the right ratio of final for the ratios of the gearbox for maximum efficiency changing the final ratio will most likely reduce fuel econ.

Already stated i'm not running an Auto, K-MAC.
And it seems logical that a lower diff ratio will increase econ....wait, is it higher or lower, i still get those two confused?

[Rdyno]

Already stated i'm not running an Auto, K-MAC.
And it seems logical that a lower diff ratio will increase econ....wait, is it higher or lower, i still get those two confused?

Oh sorry I miss read I thought you had an auto. By all means change the diff then.

[karl_2ltGC]

Can i suggest binning the K&N filter. You should not be using a oiled filter on a modern car (or anything that's not racing in the dirt for that matter). One thing I have learnt in my old(er) age is that OEM stuff is better, especially as you are running it in stock trim.
Replace the oxygen sensor, disconnect the battery to clear the ecu and go drive the thing. If you want to spend some money, I suggest a set of extractors generally improve economy in my experience also (even with the rest of the system stock).


Not sure if you already onto this, but if you have a smart phone then fuelly is a good way to log your fuel economy. For the record my aristo averages 11.2l/100ks. http://www.fuelly.com/car/toyota/ari...rlcho88/280668

[Alan M]

O2 sensor is booked for 1st week in Jan as although since Goss coils install engine is running better, there's still a slight lurching at low speeds.

In the search for better economy and running, I would get the injectors checked and cleaned, as their spray pattern by now could be ordinary. If the spray pattern is poor this can cause a lean condition which can cause surging. My BA Wagon auto gets between 10.2 and 11.2 L/100 on a 40klm commute to Brisbane through the city, depending on what shift I am on. Standard type air cleaner and plugs etc using 95 octane 10% ethanol type fuel.

[Jay17]

Haven't posted for a while due to no new work being done, but econ tests are still active.

Can i suggest binning the K&N filter. You should not be using a oiled filter on a modern car (or anything that's not racing in the dirt for that matter). One thing I have learnt in my old(er) age is that OEM stuff is better, especially as you are running it in stock trim.
Replace the oxygen sensor, disconnect the battery to clear the ecu and go drive the thing. If you want to spend some money, I suggest a set of extractors generally improve economy in my experience also (even with the rest of the system stock).

- By all means, feel free to suggest i bin the K&N. I welcome suggestions and experiential knowledge. That's one of the main reasons for sharing this in a forum.
I 'd like to hear your reason(s) why i should do this.
- O2 sensor was booked for replacement at start of year, and was done so.
- 2 1\2in system with extractors and hi-flo cat was the first thing i did way back when i bought it.
- Flushed and replaced gearbox and diff oil with Hi-Tec oil and additives. Gear changing is smoother and car rolls easier.

- Full inlet manifold and injector clean is booked in for later this year as i am now up to 12.4L\100KLMS.
- Mechanic also mentioned i may have slight inlet leakage or crack in whatever hoses or gaskets relate to fuel management, as ute still has rough idle.
He can do a crack\leak test while doing the inlet clean.
- TurboStyleR mentions an 'air flow meter', so that will be looked at as well.

Apart from those couple of things, i have replaced everything else related to econ issues of engine management.
I suspect dirty inlet manifold-injectors is the main issue.

Not sure if you already onto this, but if you have a smart phone then fuelly is a good way to log your fuel economy. For the record my aristo averages 11.2l/100ks. http://www.fuelly.com/car/toyota/ari...rlcho88/280668

Thanks, but i prefer to do all the calculations myself and log it all on a basic text editor.
I use my converter app for other things so i prefer to use that. Exercising the mind is always enjoyable.

[MexicanBatman]

If you are that anal about your economy don't drive when it's cold

Or wet and even worse when it's wet and cold and windy

Your method leaves a margin for error great enough to invalidate any data even for comparison sake

Thousands of km logged when I had a hybrid and comparing trip computer to calculated economy saw variations each week
You may drive the same roads every day the same way at the same time, but it's still different

I'd stop worrying and just use some 4c/L discount dockets if it really matters to you


Fuck I drive an electric car and don't give a shit, I charge it when it's flat and put fuel in it once when I got it...

[Jay17]

In the search for better economy and running, I would get the injectors checked and cleaned, as their spray pattern by now could be ordinary. If the spray pattern is poor this can cause a lean condition which can cause surging. My BA Wagon auto gets between 10.2 and 11.2 L/100 on a 40klm commute to Brisbane through the city, depending on what shift I am on. Standard type air cleaner and plugs etc using 95 octane 10% ethanol type fuel.

Yep, inlet and injector clean was booked for start of year but finances on hold for a while, will be doing that before the year is out.

When i got the ute about 14-16 months ago, i was running 11.3L\100, sports exhaust system was installed by then.
Then it started chewing more juice about 6 months in, so i started replacing parts bit by bit, but econ still slowly got worse.
As i just mentioned to karl_2ltGC, dirty manifold and injectors seems to be main culprit.

But that's on hold for a bit 'cus of crappy quality of fords this last decade( i often cooked my Ef sedan's brakes with no warping), i had all discs machined and installed new pads start of year.
Had two runs on The Sidling, which is a 10-20 minute run up and down a tight windy mountain, 2nd gear stuff.
Slightly cooked the brakes on two separate occasions, cheap ass metal, the front discs warped badly, so have to re-machine the fronts and save up for some slotted and drilled DBAs.

[Jay17]

If you are that anal about your economy don't drive when it's cold

Or wet and even worse when it's wet and cold and windy

Your method leaves a margin for error great enough to invalidate any data even for comparison sake

Thousands of km logged when I had a hybrid and comparing trip computer to calculated economy saw variations each week
You may drive the same roads every day the same way at the same time, but it's still different

I'd stop worrying and just use some 4c/L discount dockets if it really matters to you


Fuck I drive an electric car and don't give a shit, I charge it when it's flat and put fuel in it once when I got it...

I'd say this thread is not for you then.