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long term econ tests: aftermarket coils and other stuff

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    #46
    i think you need to start taping up all your panel gaps and get rid of your rear view mirrors. they're killing your Cd.

    Oo___oO

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      #47
      Im guessing your not going off the average L/100km on the dash read out? My ba mk2 has been sitting on 14.9 for over 6 months and ive calculated its economy at 13.7/ 100km, its had a few ecu resets and thats the best it gets for the 5.4
      CL valiant sedan 245 3 speed
      VH dodge utility 215 3 speed, project/ trailer puller
      74 chrysler lancer LA sedan, 2.6 EFI turbo, 230kw
      chrysler galant sedan, daily
      chrysler galant coupe- long term project
      mitsubishi starion turbo, cutties, front lip, scrapes and smashes on everything

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        #48
        Originally posted by MexicanBatman View Post
        If you are that anal about your economy don't drive a BA XR6
        Fixed. Buying a BA XR6 and being anal about fuel economy is like putting a bloke in a dress and saying you have a girlfriend.
        Originally posted by Babalouie
        Geez we're a bunch of softcocks...we have a 911 and we're obsessing over non-functional ducts and indicator colours

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          #49
          Pulse and glide gets all the bitchez.

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            #50
            I can see the appeal in optimising what you have.

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              #51
              Originally posted by ls400x View Post
              I can see the appeal in optimising what you have.
              +1.. its not necessarily productive, but it is always interesting.
              Originally posted by myshortyboomba
              I've had many gauges in cars. I always found the conrods react faster than a gauge.

              you can always hear them when they break and they stop the engine immediately so you can't do any more damage.

              Comment


                #52
                Originally posted by val245 View Post
                Im guessing your not going off the average L/100km on the dash read out? My ba mk2 has been sitting on 14.9 for over 6 months and ive calculated its economy at 13.7/ 100km, its had a few ecu resets and thats the best it gets for the 5.4
                I do both. From 1st day i decided to conduct econ experiments, i keep an eye on the trip puta avg readout and do my own calculations each tank refill.

                During the process, due to running out of fuel twice, as i wanted to test the accuracy of the trip puta, it presents inaccurate readings when it warns you how many more Ks you got left when tank is low. But apart from that, the L\100km readout still matches my manual calculations.

                Since having me ute for over a year now, my 1st BA, my opinion is Ford's quality has gone down the toilet big time, my previous EF sedan was built way better than this one, and even my previous '99 XH XR6 ute had a better interior, so it would not surprise me that other fords have constant inaccurate readouts.
                "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

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                  #53
                  Originally posted by ls400x View Post
                  I can see the appeal in optimising what you have.
                  Yep. Not only do i work towards saving cash each tank, but i am learning some intricate things about the new ECU controlled cars, and potentially learning about what is a waste of money to put on a car, plus learning how to still have some hard core but sensible fun on the roads while staying within chosen parameters...i hoon about once a week but always stay within the speed limits. I imagine some people get a buzz from going as fast as possible and doing donuts-burnouts, while i prefer to push myself as far as possible while keeping within the designated limits and driving safely for other motorists. I prefer spending money on suspension and brakes than horsepower. Econ is simply a new factor to have fun with.

                  And in the case of the forum, while doing all thus geek stuff, there's free entertainment from the comedians and trolls who come in and share their witty and not so witty remarks.
                  "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Originally posted by vet 180 View Post
                    Fixed. Buying a BA XR6 and being anal about fuel economy is like putting a bloke in a dress and saying you have a girlfriend.
                    Now that's an analogy ! <--look out, dad joke.
                    "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

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                      #55
                      Originally posted by Jay17 View Post
                      I do both. From 1st day i decided to conduct econ experiments, i keep an eye on the trip puta avg readout and do my own calculations each tank refill.

                      During the process, due to running out of fuel twice, as i wanted to test the accuracy of the trip puta, it presents inaccurate readings when it warns you how many more Ks you got left when tank is low. But apart from that, the L\100km readout still matches my manual calculations.
                      I can back that up - I did the same with by BFII ute over a couple of years, my manual calculations were consistently identical to the trip computer readout (or within a rounding error margin at most), which always amazed me.

                      The accuracy of the distance to empty readout goes both ways... it tries to be smart, but in doing so ends up being no more useful than a light that comes on saying "oi cunt, buy fuel". It is working with a rough idea of the fuel left in the tank, and your consumption average over the last x km (or similar). I've seen it hit zero km and then go back up to 10. However if I was bored on the highway I used to fill up, read the DTE based on the full tank, add that to the odometer and keep a mental note of that number, then continuously monitor that to see how I was driving. It was a mildly amusing way to stay alert.

                      At some point you just give in and drive the fucking thing with no regard, but in my situation I initially went from driving an 8L/100 gemini to a 13.5L/100 ute, while not earning a whole lot, just as fuel got to the $120/tank price point, and since I'd never really budgeted for it, I spent a lot of time trying to work out ways to optimise... buy fuel when its cheap (even if you've still got 3/4 of a tank), and stay out of traffic were the only two constants.
                      Originally posted by myshortyboomba
                      I've had many gauges in cars. I always found the conrods react faster than a gauge.

                      you can always hear them when they break and they stop the engine immediately so you can't do any more damage.

                      Comment


                        #56
                        Originally posted by Fraud View Post
                        I can back that up - I did the same with by BFII ute over a couple of years, my manual calculations were consistently identical to the trip computer readout (or within a rounding error margin at most), which always amazed me.

                        The accuracy of the distance to empty readout goes both ways... it tries to be smart, but in doing so ends up being no more useful than a light that comes on saying "oi cunt, buy fuel". It is working with a rough idea of the fuel left in the tank, and your consumption average over the last x km (or similar). I've seen it hit zero km and then go back up to 10. However if I was bored on the highway I used to fill up, read the DTE based on the full tank, add that to the odometer and keep a mental note of that number, then continuously monitor that to see how I was driving. It was a mildly amusing way to stay alert.

                        At some point you just give in and drive the fucking thing with no regard, but in my situation I initially went from driving an 8L/100 gemini to a 13.5L/100 ute, while not earning a whole lot, just as fuel got to the $120/tank price point, and since I'd never really budgeted for it, I spent a lot of time trying to work out ways to optimise... buy fuel when its cheap (even if you've still got 3/4 of a tank), and stay out of traffic were the only two constants.
                        Haha, i hear ya, i now just use it to tell me when i hit the "40Ks left" warning, then go fill up. Due to manual calculations i prefer to empty the tank as far as possible before filling up.

                        I'm forced early retirement on a carer's pension so cash is limited, but still in a reasonable supply as i have no interest draining debts apart from the ute loan, and i needed a ute for firewood and shit, and a buzzbox is too costly to run in the long run, so doing lots of econ experiments allows me to still have an average hoon car, that i can give it a good squirt once week or fortnight.

                        Plus the more cash i spend on tightening the suspension will lower fuel costs and tyre wear.

                        One thing i noticed with experiments is with older cars is that driving at 90K instead of 100 gave me an extra 50Ks\tank(on me EF). 90K was the optimal speed.
                        But with the BA, possibly due to more refinement of the EMS, i get the same econ at 90-110, but i chew the juice at 80 and less.
                        I also get an econ increase when i'm on cruise, whereas me mum's jellyfish magna wagon has a horrendous cruise control.
                        The BA on cruise, when speeding up from 60 to 100 takes it's sweet time, seemingly configured for econ instead of getting their asap.

                        ECU tune is on the cards, way up the road, and a replacement where i can have two settings is even further away.

                        After i do the inlet and injector clean, the last of the tiny elements to replace or clean, i am going to experiment with hot air induction.
                        My thinking is that if cold air induction kits increase power due to the ECU reading the sensors and throwing more fuel in,
                        then hot air going in the air intake might produce the opposite response.

                        And of course, i think the biggest element regarding econ is how you drive when in normal mode.
                        In the BA, all i gotta do is have a slightly increased leadfoot through the gears to reach any speed limit, and i really chew the juice.
                        So when i'm not hooning, i'm in really laid back chauffeur mode, never in a rush, taking my sweet time in all situations.
                        "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

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                          #57
                          Ute lost 70Ks this last tank, econ dropped severely.
                          Manifold clean and leak test booked in for next friday.
                          Clean the K&N at same time.
                          "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

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                            #58
                            Okay, manifold clean was done. Definite improvement...but not for economy. ~Hulk sad~
                            Ute now runs smoother, has more grunt.
                            Tacho needle always fluttered at idle, even when i first bought ute.
                            But there was no irratic behavior from motor at any speed, till econ started dropping 6 months later and i noticed slight surging at 40-60 cruise speeds.

                            That's all sorted now, so manifold was definitely dirty. Tacho needle just floats nicely at idle now, and engine is as smooth as fuck.

                            But this econ just keeps dropping, i am now at 12.7L\100K
                            One odd thing i noticed from the inlet clean; before, my econ was good(and would inprove) at 80-110 speeds and chewed the juice at 80 and lower speeds.
                            Since clean, econ is now better at the low speeds and stays the same at high speeds.
                            Though only just onto 2nd tank since clean so will see what happens over next couple of weeks.

                            So even though manifold clean did make very noticeable improvements, it is not the decreasing econ culprit.

                            Summary of work and status of ute so far...ute has just turned over 210,000Ks

                            - Goss coils installed Dec '15 with new platinium plugs and HD Bosch battery. Done 17,000K
                            - O2 sensor installed Jan '16
                            - Tyre pressures; front 42; rear 40
                            - K&N filter installed @189,000Ks, cleaned and reoiled every engine service 5-7000K
                            - Gearbox and diff flushed and serviced with additives @ 200,000K
                            - HD Kings front springs and new OEM specs shocks all round + Ironman Load Plus rear booster springs installed Nov '15
                            - Suspension is good, bearings etc, new brake pads and all disks machined Nov '15

                            Eco was 11.3L\100Ks through 2015, has slowly dropped to 11.8, but last couple of months it dropped to 12.5.

                            Everything i have done has made ute run better so obviously i still haven't found reason.

                            Going through the thread, will be checking out things people have said...
                            - air flow meter
                            - clean throttle body(check if that was done with manifold clean just done)
                            - if cheap enough, i will replace injectors.

                            From research just now, thinking about all the sensors related to engine-econ
                            - O2 sensor
                            - Coolant sensors
                            - Throttle position sensor
                            - MAP sensor(manifold absolute pressure)
                            - MAF sensor(mass airflow)
                            - CKP sensors (crankshaft & camshaft position)
                            - VSS sensor (vehicle speed sensor) Cars with ABS usually have Wheel Speed Sensors (WSS) to monitor each of the wheels.
                            - IAT sensor(inlet air temp)

                            All of these(not sure about throttle position sensor) can affect econ if faulty.
                            ~gleefully rubs hands together~ so many things to examine and test.

                            Will do experiment to test for differences between OEM air filter and oiled up K&N, but can't do this till decreasing econ culprit is sorted, as econ is constantly decreasing.
                            "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

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                              #59
                              How was the manifold clean performed?

                              Comment


                                #60
                                Originally posted by ls400x View Post
                                How was the manifold clean performed?
                                Seems to be a standard process for mechanics.
                                My rough iinterpretation is they either take over the fuel line or inject the cleaner through the air inlet on a running motor for 30 mins, an engine oil change is required after this procedure.
                                Checked with the boys yesterday, throttle body clean was part of the process.
                                "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

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