Current hotness for ECU input sensors (air/coolant temp, fuel/oil pressure)

[PXL265]

As above....

I collect data for roads, and having too much is more often worse than not enough.

I advise to work out what story you want to tell to work out what information you need to tell the story, and from there you can work out what data you need.

I have a friend that has a car for sprints and he is a data need that collects data for the sake of collecting data. He has so much data he gets himself tangled in knits trying to work out what is making him slower it faster.

In my car prodports car I will get whatever the engine builder wants plus GPS data and basic throttle position and when I hit the brakes data to try to work out why I'm slow other than being old and out of practice, or as some would say, just shit at driving....

Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

[jasonp1977]

on a low spec car, I like to have sensors on stuff that will cause a failure if there's a problem. Oil Pressure/Temp and Fuel Pressure are about the minimum extra sensors for me. The fuel pressure sensor proved its value identifying a fuel pickup issue at the track recently so I'm now revising the tank

I've got an excess of spare ECU inputs so recently added gearbox oil temp and coolant pressure to mine also and looking to add another T1 Race fast response intake air temp sensor in one of the plenum runners right at the inlet port of the head so I can see what difference there is between that and the usual pre-throttle IAT.

Would love to have individual lambda from each exhaust port, but that's cash I don't want to spend on the car at this stage

[ROBAPHENT]

on a low spec car, I like to have sensors on stuff that will cause a failure if there's a problem. Oil Pressure/Temp and Fuel Pressure are about the minimum extra sensors for me. The fuel pressure sensor proved its value identifying a fuel pickup issue at the track recently so I'm now revising the tank

I've got an excess of spare ECU inputs so recently added gearbox oil temp and coolant pressure to mine also and looking to add another T1 Race fast response intake air temp sensor in one of the plenum runners right at the inlet port of the head so I can see what difference there is between that and the usual pre-throttle IAT.

Would love to have individual lambda from each exhaust port, but that's cash I don't want to spend on the car at this stage

Thats a good insight, i have a Emtron KV8 so i guess the same as you i have more then enough input's and was thinking if i have to do a loom now, i should do it to a standard that wont require to much more in the future.

[takai]

So it seems that the PS1000 doesnt support multiple AIT sensors, so i reckon ill just go back to running the standard Honeywell one pre-throttle and use the onboard MAP sensor for now.

[MWP]

Thats a good insight, i have a Emtron KV8 so i guess the same as you i have more then enough input's...

Heh, funny that.
Im helping a friend with his KV8 install (nothing crazy, a road car), and ran out of analog inputs surprisingly quickly.
I guess DBW and wheels speed sensors will do that though.

[tim510]

analog wheel speed sensors?

[burn is weird]

Heh, funny that.
Im helping a friend with his KV8 install (nothing crazy, a road car), and ran out of analog inputs surprisingly quickly.
I guess DBW and wheels speed sensors will do that though.

remember you can use Digital input channels as analog inputs as well with an acceptable precision for many signals, CH1-8 have a resolution of 0.00488v (10-bit, 1024 steps) and CH9-14 have a res of 0.0196v (8-bit, 256 steps)

0.5psi error for oil or coolant pressure or 0.5 degC for oil/coolant temp makes no difference.

filling 30 input channels is a good effort!

this is my full wish list on a KV8 at 30 input channels totally full (16AI, 5 AI in DI channels, 7 pulse DI and 2 status DI). Only thing i can think im missing is shock travel, but you'd want to be sampling that from a dedicated logger in the hkz range i'd imagine, and I wouldn't know what to do with the data anyway! you could swap out the Atessa actuator pressure or map selector dial for a airbox temperature sensor, the KV8 can calculate compressor efficiency based on an adiabatic compression model which would be interesting (if you had a precision turbo)

AI(press)
Manifold P
turbo boost P
Exhaust manifold P
oil P
coolant P (use DI)
fuel P
clutch line P
brake P
centre diff actuator pressure (ATESSA)

AI(temp)
coolant t
fuel t (from ethanol sensor signal, no input required)
oil t (use DI)
manifold air t
turbo outlet air t
gearbox t (use DI)
differential t (use DI)


AI(pos)
dbw pedal 1
dbw pedal 2
dbw TPS 1
dbw TPS 2
ECU map selector dial (use DI)

DI (pulse)
gearbox speed
wheel 1
wheel 2
wheel 3
wheel 4
turbo speed
ethanol sensor

(DI status)
aircon triple switch
psteer pressure switch

(ECU internal)
internal baro pressure
interal 3 axis accelerometer
dual knock
dual wideband
dedicated ignition input
Crank signal
Cam signal

(CANbus)
6x EGT
GPS unit with 3 axis gyro and 3 axis accelerometer

[Norbie]

Does anyone have an opinion on the best location for a fuel pressure sensor on a EFI engine with fuel return?

Between the fuel rail outlet and FPR seems like the most logical place, but in my case it would be more convenient to have it just before the fuel rail inlet. Will that still work?

[jasonp1977]

in the fuel rail is where I plumbed the sensor on my 2J, on my other cars I plumbed the sensors into the FPR

[Norbie]

I bought my sensor from Goleby's, and on their product page they have this to say:

We highly recommend remote mounting these sensors as mounting straight into an engine block can run vibrations through the sensor and cause premature failure of the sensor.

My FPR is bolted to the plenum so will have the same vibration issues.

[jasonp1977]

yeah, I must be lucky as I've not had a fuel pressure sensor fail yet, the one on my 2J was in service for 9 years, the one in my subaru has been there for 5 years daily driven (sensor in FPR bolted to plenum, same setup as my weekend turbo corolla). They're all the $300 genuine TI 150psi sensors though which are commonly copied and sold for $100-odd

[Komdotkom]

I use one of these, also allows fuel temp if you aren't running a flex fuel sensor
https://www.efihardware.com/products...ensor-Manifold

[burn is weird]

run the fuel pressure sensor anywhere after the last injector in the rail and before the regulator. if you have fuel pressure in the fuel return system you know your rail pressure must be good.

[Norbie]

Thanks for the info guys.

[takai]

Just FWIW Mazda use the Bosch pressure/temp sensor and so it is available through them cheaper than direct from Bosch https://www.amayama.com/en/part/mazda/py8v18541b