Thanks for the input guys I think I am getting somewhere. I ended up using a white 1.6mm tungsten (didn't have it in 2.4mm) which I think was doing ok but I couldn't keep up with using 1.6mm feed rod, I might need to go to 2.4mm rod. These ones were done on 100hz & 35 ac balance. I gave up using the pulse function for now too much to figure out there and I couldn't use the pedal as I was standing but I do see how the pedal will help with control. There is a lot of crap in these welds as it was getting late and I was over cleaning alloy. http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...ps6jzgxgt4.jpg
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B&N Performance Engineering - 4Bangers & Mash Racing
1978 LB Lancer IPRA Car - In the making LB Lancer 4G63 IPRA Build - Now up and driving
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I hear you on the 1.6 filler on ally, yeah it doesn't work, unless doing really fine stuff. We used 2.4 and 3.2 at college.Originally posted by RESON8 View PostThanks for the input guys I think I am getting somewhere. I ended up using a white 1.6mm tungsten (didn't have it in 2.4mm) which I think was doing ok but I couldn't keep up with using 1.6mm feed rod, I might need to go to 2.4mm rod. These ones were done on 100hz & 35 ac balance. I gave up using the pulse function for now too much to figure out there and I couldn't use the pedal as I was standing but I do see how the pedal will help with control. There is a lot of crap in these welds as it was getting late and I was over cleaning alloy. http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...ps6jzgxgt4.jpg
Oh and the reason we used Ceriated was because Thoriated is no longer allowed on TAFE premises, and most Govt sites
now all because of the tiny risk of radioactive dust. We all know its not a real threat, but rules is rules.Radical SR3
HSV R8
BMW 325ti Proddy Car
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Definitely a difference on big castings, cylinder heads and so forth....and not enough amps on the machine, makes puddle formation much easier without blazing away for an eternity, especially in winter.Originally posted by Commotion View PostJust use argon. I had a helium argon mix which sat for over a year unused. Went to use it recently and it looks like it went off. swapped it back over to the argon bottle which was same age and it was fine. Took it back and yet to hear the verdict. I didn't see a big enough difference to warrant it anyway.
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Also give your filler rods a wipe with a white rag, you'd be suprised at how much shit is on them which can lead you down the path of is the job dirty, is the tungsten dirty, do I have enough gas coverage etc... I been caught out a few times when tired or in a rush and found contamination.Originally posted by RESON8 View PostThere is a lot of crap in these welds as it was getting late and I was over cleaning alloy.Originally posted by Motherfucker JonesIf you can't appreciate that then you are more narrow minded than the most mulleted, flanno, thong wearing, thong slapping, 253 owning, southern cross tatted, fuck off
we're full stickered, VB drinking bogan you'll ever meet
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First calc is close enough, but second one is off by a factor of 12. Feet to metres is multiply feet by 0.305 = m, Or divide feet by 3.3 for close enough to metres.Originally posted by GHZ28 View Post...
For gas flow, if in cfh divide by 2 for l/min and for MIG wire feed divide f/min by 40 for m/min. Both close enough to get you well inside the ballpark.
...Cheers, Richard
MX83 Cressida Grande - 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo JZX81 Motor, Fr Suspension in, tailshaft made & installed, bigger fuel pump in, zorst, wiring, fmic done (thanks jzk25)
BA rotors R33 Calipers Now REGISTERED going well
'92 & '94 TF Holden Rodeo 2.8 TurboDiesel 4WDs - Daily Driver regular breaker/backup ute
MS85 Crown Super Sedan - Farm Car - Running 3rd 4M - Future project
'66 Jaguar E-Type 4.2 Manual Coupe
'66 Jaguar S-Type 3.8 Auto Sedan - Long Term Jobs
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I did notice black crap transferring from the filler rod to the puddle as it was pulled in. That is probably my issue i think it is time to clean the shed.Originally posted by krisr View PostAlso give your filler rods a wipe with a white rag, you'd be suprised at how much shitB&N Performance Engineering - 4Bangers & Mash Racing
1978 LB Lancer IPRA Car - In the making LB Lancer 4G63 IPRA Build - Now up and driving
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Speaking of aluminium, a friend of mine crashed his LS3 S13 at a drift comp a few months back. Rather than scrap the car, we got it as straight as possible, cut the front off and I made this aluminium tube front end. Final weight is under 3kg and can be removed by one person with the radiator/oil cooler/etc still attached.



I wish I had a before pic, it took me a solid day of panel beating to get the tubs and coachwork straight before even starting this one.
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Ah yeah, sorry, they do inches per minute over there not feet, hence my 40, sorry. I knew the conversion but forgot the unit.Originally posted by jzx83 View PostFirst calc is close enough, but second one is off by a factor of 12. Feet to metres is multiply feet by 0.305 = m, Or divide feet by 3.3 for close enough to metres.
Have corrected original post to reflect reality, thanks.
ghRadical SR3
HSV R8
BMW 325ti Proddy Car
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Makes sense, maybe go bigger then a #6 cone till i nail the technique.Originally posted by Dudeman View PostPossibly pulling the filler too far back, out of the shielding gas, between dips.B&N Performance Engineering - 4Bangers & Mash Racing
1978 LB Lancer IPRA Car - In the making LB Lancer 4G63 IPRA Build - Now up and driving
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I have not done much of this but since there is short deadlines and mountains of work i pulled a light night and jumped on a welder after all the boys had gone home. FCAW. its hard to get a nice weld finish compared to solid wire but traveling up hill is very easy. Looks like shite but then knock the slag off and it doesnt look half bad.

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Looking at your welds I must be blind or something! Got a mig welder started with gas less wire look like shit. So got a d sized gas bottle welds are better but still suck!!
I can't see shit. Is there something I'm missing? I got an auto darkening helmet by cig weld, all my welding gear is from cig. Sometimes I go to weld a joint and I totally miss the joint and lay the weld on one price and totally missing the other peice? Surely it's not like to be this way?
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You need to use a lighter shade helmet, if it's an adjustable helmet try a shade or 2 lower (lower number), or use a work light on your work piece so you can see better.Originally posted by snavy View PostLooking at your welds I must be blind or something! Got a mig welder started with gas less wire look like shit. So got a d sized gas bottle welds are better but still suck!!
I can't see shit. Is there something I'm missing? I got an auto darkening helmet by cig weld, all my welding gear is from cig. Sometimes I go to weld a joint and I totally miss the joint and lay the weld on one price and totally missing the other peice? Surely it's not like to be this way?
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