Post a pic up of your best welds

[bang chong]

We use flux core and the squiggly stuff is a big no no for that. Interviewed a bunch of blokes a few months back and one guy pushed the pool. When I said that's an interesting technique he was like oh ah yeah nah I have passed X-ray doing that before. I was like yeah righto.

Personally I don't like the stop start look and would prefer a nice smooth bead. I think a smooth bead is harder to hide defects and faults. It's also harder to get nice and consistent.

Are you suppose to drag? Sorry for the noob question

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[da9jeff]

Glad my swirllies caused such controversy lol.

Pretty sure with flux core you treat it like stick and drag it along. Did watch a weld.com vid where they had a weld carriage thing push and pull a bead, same settings etc and in the end the difference in penetration was minimal.

[Commotion]

Yeah anything with flux and u need to drag. Pushing can get slag inclusions.

[da9jeff]

Question, if im mig welding vert up, do i need to go down a voltage setting if it's running down?

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[Commotion]

I'm assuming by mig you are talking about regular solid wire? if so then yes you have to turn voltage down, sometimes significantly and do the christmas tree/ triangular movement. With FCAW then most times not, just push it straight up hill.

[hiddeous]

A decat pipe I did last night. Was a fun little project to get the pipe angles and offsets to get the centre line of the pipe offset vertically aprox 30mm and 40mm horizontally.

I left my good glasses at work so only did the flanges weld, not the greatest stacking of dimes in history but I doubt it'll fall apart.

[da9jeff]

@commotion. Yeah solid wire. I kinda figured it out as i was typing, but its good to get stuff confirmed by a pro.

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[Tripper]

not mine cause its not birdshit.jpeg

[fantapants]

I've tried a couple times to do these. Had success.rangong from terrible to "at least I learnt something " lol.

I put them on the back burner till I had a solid bench to weld the sheet to to stop it pulling as I welded on top... Lookong forward to try8ng again sometime...

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[crack]

More a fabrication than a weld. Did these for a Next Level Motorsport car - a VE SS ute. It's built around a GTX42.

I was going to do luxury logs but when I heard it was getting a turbo worth more than my daily driver, I thought it warranted a collector style manifold.

[Dudeman]

Not sure if dodgy or not.

[da9jeff]

Looking at going to a 4.5-5m MIG lead (from a 3m), will there be any misfeed issues with a longer lead? Is there much difference between all the gun styles? Machine is a unimig 180 running .8 or .9 solid and occasionally .6 solid for light gauge.

Cheers

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[Commotion]

Possibly if the machine only has 2 rollers. I'm not familiar with that machine but most likely a euro connection. All ours are 5m parweld leads but the machines have 4 knurled rollers for the flux core wire. We did borrow a couple Machines a while ago and one only had 2 rollers but they had gears connecting them so both rollers were driven and it worked fine with minimum wire feeding issues.

[da9jeff]

Only has 1 driven roller and a tensioner, and it does have euro connection which makes it easy to swap.

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[da9jeff]

At the risk of turning this into the "Jeff's noob welding questions" thread, has anyone tried one of the ~$60 tig pedals on ebay? Next cheapest is token tools at $160 then the unimig one for $230ish. Are they universal or should I just get the unimig one?

I successfully stuck some bits of 6061 together today for the first time, my hours of youtube viewing paid off as I could lay a bead pretty much straight up, but I've realised that:
- I definitely need a pedal, and that torch mounted controls suck dick.
- I want one of those mini ck torches,
- Shoulda bought the big pack of filler rod.

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