Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Post a pic up of your best welds

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Originally posted by da9jeff View Post
    At the risk of turning this into the "Jeff's noob welding questions" thread, has anyone tried one of the ~$60 tig pedals on ebay? Next cheapest is token tools at $160 then the unimig one for $230ish. Are they universal or should I just get the unimig one?

    I successfully stuck some bits of 6061 together today for the first time, my hours of youtube viewing paid off as I could lay a bead pretty much straight up, but I've realised that:
    - I definitely need a pedal, and that torch mounted controls suck dick.
    - I want one of those mini ck torches,
    - Shoulda bought the big pack of filler rod.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
    You don't really need a pedal. I can weld more consistent and nice without a pedal as once the work piece is hot I just travel faster to compensate. The old foot can get a bit lazy at times and that can throw off your consistency. Anyway like anything you get what you pay for when it comes to pedals. You probably won't really know if you don't have anything to compare it too though.

    Just make sure whatever torch you get it is 200amp or you'll cook it whenever you use ac.


    Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk

    Comment


      Yeah as above.

      Agree torch controls can be a pain in the arse becasue the on and off can cause dipping but it's easy enough to get used to.

      That being said foot pedal does have some definite advantages.

      I've got a cheap one that came with my welder, only use it once cos I was too retarded to get it working lol... But yeah with long sessions the foot can get right lazy lol.

      Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
      RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
      06/07/2011

      http://www.performanceforums.com/for...#post842594902 - making little toys for the big boys

      Comment


        I was welding 2t but I still need to figure out 4t (or read the manual), I think I'll still get a pedal when cash allows. So is a wp17 style the smallest you'd go for AC work?

        Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
        Tow car/camping bus: 2011 D40 Navara ST

        Baby mobile: 2016 Nissan Qashqai

        75 Mini Clubman club racer - DCOE powah

        Comment


          Originally posted by da9jeff View Post
          I was welding 2t but I still need to figure out 4t (or read the manual), I think I'll still get a pedal when cash allows. So is a wp17 style the smallest you'd go for AC work?

          Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
          I do prefer using the pedal on poor fitment and thin stuff though, youd be surprised how much of a gap you can fill lol even on thinner stuff.

          What frequency are you welding on? I'm using the latest unimig 200amp acdc tig and i have my frequency up to ab0ut 180 hertz.

          If you can get a wp17 torch in 200amp then yes but from memory most of the wp26 are the bigger bulkier can handle more amp units. I run a stubby kit on my one at home with a gas lens and a no.8 pyrex cup



          Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk

          Comment


            Im at 100hz at the moment. Probably got the same welder (razor) and torch as you, just seems massive. Do you use the 4t trigger? I have a gas lens kit coming in the post.

            Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
            Tow car/camping bus: 2011 D40 Navara ST

            Baby mobile: 2016 Nissan Qashqai

            75 Mini Clubman club racer - DCOE powah

            Comment


              Originally posted by da9jeff View Post
              Im at 100hz at the moment. Probably got the same welder (razor) and torch as you, just seems massive. Do you use the 4t trigger?

              Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
              Yeah thats the same welder as I use at work. I would usually weld with about 120hertz but I'm welding 1.6mm ally rhs and the higher hertz I feel helps keep the arc tighter on this thin stuff.

              2t. I try to use 4t but then forget that I'm on 4t lol and just switch it back.

              Look into the stubby lens kit and it takes a fair bit of the bulkiness out of the wp27 torch

              Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk

              Comment


                Yeah ive also never been a fan of pedals, prefer to run around 1 - 1.5secs downslope to control temp..

                Comment


                  just whoring on reddit and found this

                  www.holditflat.com

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by Euronymous View Post
                    Yeah ive also never been a fan of pedals, prefer to run around 1 - 1.5secs downslope to control temp..
                    Is that just using the button to cycle the weld program? I still haven't tried the pulse feature, figure I'll learn without it and hopefully be a better welder when I do use it. My TIGing has been going well, still haven't got a pedal but am getting better at regulating speed/heat.

                    This was joining a points distributor bottom half to the top half of an elec ignition dizzy, the shaft was also machined and tigged together.



                    Bit of scrap, fuck I wish Al welded like steel.

                    Tow car/camping bus: 2011 D40 Navara ST

                    Baby mobile: 2016 Nissan Qashqai

                    75 Mini Clubman club racer - DCOE powah

                    Comment


                      Changing subject, does anyone here do structural alloy work? I'm doing a fair bit of fourbie stuff with my little side business and have a job to build a basic ute tray to hold a alloy canopy (1800x1800 tourer style thing). The customer wants steel (50x3 shs) which is fine, but I was thinking about a alloy equiv to cut down on weight. Would there be issues using say 50x5? shs to build a tray for offroad use? Mostly worried about fatigue cracking etc and having to over spec it so much that it weighs the same as a steel one anyway... thoughts?

                      If the idea was feasible, I might even look at another MIG machine and set it up just for alloy, although the first 1 would be TIG and end up on my Nav.
                      Tow car/camping bus: 2011 D40 Navara ST

                      Baby mobile: 2016 Nissan Qashqai

                      75 Mini Clubman club racer - DCOE powah

                      Comment


                        Good work behind the torch man :D

                        I have nothing useful to add about the ute tray sorry

                        It's been months and months since I have had a decent today on the she'd inhale been tidying up and rearranging things in readiness for the car.port and the new tools and the bike end of things. Which meant going through all my bits of shit, hanging them on the wall and figuring out what was missing. I had a shimano locking remover. And a campag locking remover. So figured it's a good excuse to make it a stand alone tool :D

                        Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
                        RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
                        06/07/2011

                        http://www.performanceforums.com/for...#post842594902 - making little toys for the big boys

                        Comment


                          With ally just be aware that the material around the weld has a much lower strength because of the heat. Even with a higher strength alloy the heat from the weld will drop it down. Ie if it’s a 6060 alloy extrusion it’s probably going to be down around 100MPa so ur rhs is going to be 2-3 times stronger in the weld region.

                          Any gussets or plates ur welding on try and give the plate a bit of a toe so where the weld terminates has only a thin piece of plate attached to reduce stress. Also try and avoid welding perpendicular to the direction of stress, ie across the beam.

                          Comment


                            Yeah my understanding is that once welded the metal reverts to the unheat treated specs in the weld zone.

                            Had a look on the Norweld site and they use 75x35x6 for the main tray beams. Might head to capral and price up some rhs. What grade would be best for corrugations etc?

                            Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
                            Tow car/camping bus: 2011 D40 Navara ST

                            Baby mobile: 2016 Nissan Qashqai

                            75 Mini Clubman club racer - DCOE powah

                            Comment


                              I think you will find they don't have many grades, have a look at dabfab fabrications he does all alloy stuff in Mt Isa I help him scan and reverse engineer stuff.
                              3D scanning
                              3D modelling
                              Structural certification
                              3 and 5 axis milling

                              Comment


                                Cheers, will do.

                                Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
                                Tow car/camping bus: 2011 D40 Navara ST

                                Baby mobile: 2016 Nissan Qashqai

                                75 Mini Clubman club racer - DCOE powah

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X