Post a pic up of your best welds

[Rdyno]

[cracka]

6061 cunt can fuck off back to the other dimension he came from.

[Gin Kii]

Why not not just use a chunk of raw stock ?

[[RX3]]

When it comes to welding turbo / intercooler charge pipes, how important is penetration of the welds ?

I only sometimes seem to get it, no where near as consistent as steel.

[Roadsailing]

Thought I would drag this up as I've been doing a fair bit of stick welding lately, got a bit frustrated with the CIG 2.0mm rods I bought a while ago and nearly got the gasles MIG out, instead I got some "Michigan" 3.2mm rods, they are 6013 general purpose and work great so far. really cheap too, about half the price of CIG, got them at total tools and the total tool who worked there reckons they sell shitloads more of them to tradies than the CIG rods.

/CSH for now, if I get any presentable beads i'll throw a photo up.

[da9jeff]

Been through a few 5kg rolls of the Michigan .9mm solid mig wire. Cant beat $27 in a 5kg.

[dnegative]

got them at total tools and the total tool who worked there reckons they sell shitloads more of them to tradies than the CIG rods.

6013's (aka farmers rods) are pretty forgiving but I bet if you put the CIG rods in the oven at 100c for a few hours and they would probably run a lot better, wouldnt take much for a batch to get a little iffy in their journey from China.
Last bit of welding I did was with WIA 7016 rods, if you dried them and used them straight away they ran beautifully, let em sit in the packet for a week in a dry cupboard and they were noticeably worse, dry them again, back to being good.

[Roadsailing]

6013's (aka farmers rods) are pretty forgiving but I bet if you put the CIG rods in the oven at 100c for a few hours and they would probably run a lot better, wouldnt take much for a batch to get a little iffy in their journey from China.
Last bit of welding I did was with WIA 7016 rods, if you dried them and used them straight away they ran beautifully, let em sit in the packet for a week in a dry cupboard and they were noticeably worse, dry them again, back to being good.

yeah I need all the forgiving I can get for the current project coupled with my skill level, I didn't clean any of the metal with the new rods for more farm practice, turned out fine, how strong does a space shuttle need to be anyway.

I might try CIG in 3.2mm some day.

Where did you get 7016 rods? I was surprised the rods I got said 6013 on them, seems to be more an american thing from what little looking I did.

[Xnke]

For stick rods, the code is as per below for the 4 and some 5 digit codes for mild steel:

All of these are gonna have an E for Electrode up front, then first two digits represent the resulting weld's minimum tensile strength, measured in thousands of pounds per square inch (ksi). For example the number "70" in a E7018 electrode indicates that the electrode will produce a weld bead with a minimum tensile strength of 70,000 psi. The third digit tells you what postions the rod is good for, and fourth digit tells you what kind of flux coating is on the rod.

Third digit:
1 - all position
2 - flat/horizontal only
3 - dunno bout this one
4 - flat, horizontal, vertical down, overhead

Fourth digit:
Digit Type of Coating Welding Current
0 High cellulose sodium DC+
1 High cellulose potassium AC, DC+ or DC-
2 High titania sodium AC, DC-
3 High titania potassium AC, DC+
4 Iron powder, titania AC, DC+ or DC-
5 Low hydrogen sodium DC+
6 Low hydrogen potassium AC, DC+
7 High iron oxide, iron powder AC, DC+ or DC-
8 Low hydrogen potassium, iron powder AC, DC+ or DC-

6010 electrodes can only be used with direct current (DC) power sources. They deliver deep penetration and will cut right through rust, oil, paint and crap. Pipe welders use these for root welding passes in pipe joints. However, 6010 rods require an extremely tight arc, which can make them difficult to use if you're not on the ball.

6011 used for all-position welding using an alternating current (AC) welding power source. Like 6010, 6011 rods produce a deep, penetrating arc that cuts through corroded or unclean metals. Maintenance and repair work when a DC power source is unavailable.

6012 are great for applications that require gap bridging between two joints. tend to produce a shallower penetration profile and dense slag that doesn't come off so easy.

6013 - soft arc with minimal spatter, moderate penetration and easy to remove slag. These electrodes should only be used to weld clean, new sheet metal as they just don't cut through the rust or paint or crap. They do make you look like a pro if you're half-careful with them.

7014 electrodes produce about the same joint penetration as 6012 electrodes and are designed for use on carbon and low alloy steels. 7014 electrodes contain a higher amount of iron powder, which increases deposition rate. They can also be used at higher amperages than 6012 electrodes.

7018 electrodes contain a thick flux with high powder content and are one of the easiest electrodes to use. These electrodes produce a smooth, quiet arc with minimal spatter and medium arc penetration. Many welders use 7018 electrodes to weld thick metals such as structural steel. 7018 electrodes also produce strong welds with high impact properties (even in cold weather) and can be used on carbon steel, high-carbon, low-alloy or high strength steel base metals.

7024 electrodes contain a high amount of iron powder content that helps increase deposition rates. Many welders use 7024 electrodes for high-speed horizontal or flat fillet welds. These electrodes perform well on steel plate that is at least 1/4 inch thick. They can also be used on metals that measure over 1/2 inch thick.

Occasionally you'll see something like E8018-B2H4R. In this case, the "B2" indicates chemical composition of the weld metal deposit. The "H4" is the diffusible hydrogen designator, which indicates the maximum diffusible hydrogen level obtained with the product. And "R" stands for the moisture resistant designator to indicate the electrode's ability to meet specific low moisture pickup limits under controlled humidification tests. The first four digits after the E are read as per above, like any other rod.

[fantapants]

So much awesome man. Cant thank you enough for sharing that sort of knowledge

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

[Xnke]

Also, if you think you might have damp rods, set the welder to 40-50A, and "stick" a rod to a scrap plate for a few seconds. You'll see and feel it heat up pretty fast-be ready to break it off the plate or jerk it out of the electrode holder pretty quick. If it didn't break off the plate, cold-chisel or slag hammer it off the plate and try welding with it after you've heated it-if it welds better, put your rods in the oven!

[dnegative]

Where did you get 7016 rods? I was surprised the rods I got said 6013 on them, seems to be more an american thing from what little looking I did.

Local industrial shop, Austarc 16TC.
Every now and then I see a pipe fitter or old school boiler maker stick weld and fuck those guys are a dying breed.

[Roadsailing]

Local industrial shop, Austarc 16TC.
Every now and then I see a pipe fitter or old school boiler maker stick weld and fuck those guys are a dying breed.

cheers! do you know what we call 7018s here?

think my $100 rossmark ebay welder is at its limit, welded on 170 amps (whatever that actually is) for about an hour then couldn't unscrew one of the leads from the machine as the rubber boot was spinning on it, spanner got it out fine. wouldn't mind putting decent leads on it but they are going to approach the cost of the welder. might look in to some homebrew solutions.

I forgot how messy stick is, flux and electrode roaches everywhere!

[Faux Forg]

It's not the prettiest weld , but I'm really happy with how it turned out. I've literally been putting off doing it for years... I cut out at least 2 previous owners' attempts at repairing the panel and made a new section. It's ~1300 long in what started out as 0.8mm sheet, but over the years has rusted and been ground down to ~0.4mm in places. TIG welded in short runs with minimal distortion.

[fantapants]

Nah tops work man :D thats a tuff crack and you done good...

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