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    Yesh def helps to have dedicated split purge and reg flow.
    Also use the purge flow as a pressure to "hold up" the molten puddle, so deoending on the soze and amount of exit holes there is really only 5 to 8lpm needed in purge while welding

    Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
    RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
    06/07/2011

    http://www.performanceforums.com/for...#post842594902 - making little toys for the big boys

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      So a while back I made a head stem for my roady. It worked OK but had a few logistical issues I wanted to sort. So I've been ridong it for the last few months just making sure it didn't explode in a fireball of death and pain, and it's held up to standing starts and everything with no sign of fatigue. I left the paint off the ensure I could spot welds cracking etc.

      Anyways, I saved enough money to order some frame finishing brazons from my old mate Darrell. Included were some stainless bosses for bolting seat tubes tight.

      I used these to act as the tensioner in my hide clamp bit.

      Also used a shim for the steerer tube clamp instead of cutting and joining. I madd a few mistakes also, but I Recon by the next One I'll have it all perfect lol. Biggest mistake andnrework was cutting the h slots THEN welding the clamps on. Shit idea. So then I started again and welded the clamp on and then cut the H slot. Lol simple I knkw but you sometimes gotta fuck up to learn

      Changes for the next One, need tl order some thick wall chromemolly to machine down to size rather than cutting and rejoining.... It "works" but is messy as inside the clamp.

      Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
      RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
      06/07/2011

      http://www.performanceforums.com/for...#post842594902 - making little toys for the big boys

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        Anyone still welding stuff?

        Downpipe for a RB25 S14 with ProBoost turbo.

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        3" 304 stainless steel, purged, 1mm 308 filler, Furick BBW cup @ ~ 35 cfh argon.

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          Dude...... noice. #internethigh5

          Been dribs and drabs for me since I finished the exhaust on lolla... here is some of the fun stuff. There is a heap more of the cradle and sump weld in my build thread

          Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

          RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
          06/07/2011

          http://www.performanceforums.com/for...#post842594902 - making little toys for the big boys

          Comment


            i have determined over the weekend that i have forgotten how to weld. those pics make me cry
            Originally posted by Keith Duckworth
            "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

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              Originally posted by doctor ed View Post
              i have determined over the weekend that i have forgotten how to weld. those pics make me cry
              Can't you practice on old people hips and other broken bones????

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                Lol did chortle

                Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

                RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
                06/07/2011

                http://www.performanceforums.com/for...#post842594902 - making little toys for the big boys

                Comment


                  Some beautiful stacks of dimes in those images ^

                  Fuck I wish I could weld....my wardrobe wouldnt be stacked full of car parts that should be on my car....

                  I would kill for a downpipe that looked that good...love the flex without the prickly wires too

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                    In that bellows flex, what's the ID on the sleeve that runs through it? I've got a couple of 3" versions that look the same externally but are closer to 72mm ID. I'm looking to grab a Vibrant interlock flex to go after the gate merge in this setup as it seems the Vibrant flex has a bit larger ID

                    On the welding front, I've finally started using pulse on my stuff and it has resulted in making me travel faster and an overall smaller HAZ which is good, lost a bit of neatness going fast though
                    Last edited by jasonp1977; 24-02-21, 06:58 AM.

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                      Originally posted by jasonp1977 View Post
                      On the welding front, I've finally started using pulse on my stuff and it has resulted in making me travel faster and an overall smaller HAZ which is good, lost a bit of neatness going fast though
                      What does the inside of those welds look like? filler rod?
                      The typical use I've always seen from "pro's"(not boilermakers) using pulse is putting less heat into the material to slow down the process without overheating the material. Which is nice when you don't want to back purge because CBF and your mind and hands don't keep up with each other in relation to travel speed.

                      I pretty much gave up on pulse, i found it to be a crutch and I got better without than with, but it has its place.
                      Good for cleaning up a shit weld for whatever reason.
                      Or for fusing, I turn my torch into a very expensive high speed spot welder, .1 on time, bulk amps, .5s between pulses or something to that effect. it blows the joint together with almost full penetration, no holes, no sugaring and you look like you weld better than you can


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                        Originally posted by jasonp1977 View Post
                        In that bellows flex, what's the ID on the sleeve that runs through it? I've got a couple of 3" versions that look the same externally but are closer to 72mm ID. I'm looking to grab a Vibrant interlock flex to go after the gate merge in this setup as it seems the Vibrant flex has a bit larger ID
                        I didn't bother measuring it. It was definitely smaller than the ID of the 3" tube, maybe a couple of mm as you suggest. That particular turbo had maybe a half inch size difference between the turbine exducer and housing outlet so I doubt a small step down with the inner tube diameter of the flex would hurt performance / exhaust flow.

                        I think pulse would be handy if you have a welding positioner rotary table thing and using a lay wire technique. I guess it would look pretty neat as it would with a fuse weld. I could never get the timing right to add filler when I tried to freehand it so don't really bother anymore.

                        I have a little ally job for someone next door at the smash repairer, he installed a new intercooler and wants it connected to the intake. All masked up - since pulled apart and cleared. Waiting for more gas to arrive so I can weld it up. Will put a bead on the end of the long radius 90 bend. Should look alright when it's done.

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                        I also bought some ticon back purge plugs

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                        It would be cool if they could incorporate a little bearing so the purge line could easily rotate around rather than being dragged whenever the work is moved. I've been wanting to buy them for ages. The al-foil / masking tape method was wearing a little thin. And it'll be perfect for the exhaust on my BMW which I hope to finish soon.

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                        Should go through a bit of gas on that one.
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                          Originally posted by Dimi View Post

                          What does the inside of those welds look like? filler rod?
                          Will take a photo of the inside when I take it off the car before final assembly. I use 0.8mm solid mig wire for filler on tube like that, one small dab every few moves forward

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                            Sorry to be a blow-in, but is there anyone in Sydney-ish region who would be interested in making one (or more) of these for me?

                            The side tubes are 75mm / 3", the centre tee part is ~95mm / 3.75", could be stainless or aluminium (the one in the pics is Titanium, which is unnecessary)

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                            Jaguar XJR, Freelander 2 HSE, Jaguar XKR, MINI Cooper S
                            Originally posted by nutttr
                            People must assume you are some sort of drug dealer with all these nice cars turning up to a fibro home

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                              You'd wonder if standard ss or aluminium mandrel bends would accommodate that. I'd try Adrian at Garage 48, he's into that tedious lobster back stuff. I think he even had Ti pie cuts available some time ago.

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                                you can get 1D radius mandrel bends so it could be done with a hell of a lot less labour for sure

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