Fibreglass work

[JabberWocky]

My old man used to make the moulds and plugs for Marina Cruisers 40 + footers (now Riviera and Maritimo(kind of)). Been through the McConaghey(sp?) factory in Mona Vale a few times as a result. Pretty cooling watching them bag the maxis in there, Shockwaves, Wild Oats' etc.

He's always said the art is in always consolidating the brew well through the glass.

/CSH

[260BC]

Here is an easy one, has anyone made fiberglass doors using original steel doors as a starting point? The moulds would be of interest, I would not have a clue how to make them economically yet stiff.

[260BC]

Have sorted out how to make the moulds, the next question concerns the doors themselves. Basically a lightweight tubular steel frame will be made to connect the two hinge areas to the latch area. That frame will then be bonded to the door shell which will be moulded in two pieces, the outer skin and the inner structure. The skin should have some impact resistence which I realise will make it a bit heavier.

So, what reasonably economical material should be used to impact strengthen the door skin, something like Divinycell?

[Billzilla]

Thick cardboard ...?
(May be very wrong there, it might soak up too much resin)

[34jzgte]

if it was me i would use fiberglass honeycomb, its in a race car right? then you dont need to worry that much because the cage should be doing its job.

[34jzgte]

some molding ideas,


Cut out the guts and just place a nice flat piece in there




can never have to much reinforcement

[260BC]

Cage is a 3/4 one so only one low, angled door bar on each side but the steel frame I mentioned will incorporate a mid height horizontal bar in it. Not familiar with fibreglass honeycomb, have to look that up.

Red crosses for the pics

[turbo510]

Why not just fill the finished doors with expanding foam. It will still be light but will provide a good crumple zone/impact resistance.
Kevlar will also provide good impact resistance and resist peircing if you incorporate a layer or two in when you lay up the doors.

You need to be careful with weight though. If you go overboard it is easy for fibreglass doors to end up heavier than gutted steel doors, especially on a datsun which uses pretty light steel to start with.
A guy I used to work with made up some doors for his Alfa out of fibreglass and the weight saving was neglible. At least they would never rust...

[260BC]

My stock doors are ridiculously heavy, fair dinkum I am flat out lifting one. Also there are no spare doors to play with in AU because mine is a two seater 280ZX which was never sold by Mr AussieNissan. Expanding foam sounds like a good idea, put that idea on the agenda.

[34jzgte]

Red crosses for the pics

Fixed, i am undertaking a full dry carbon Jza80 for time attack, i might be able to snap pics in the mean time and post in here, usually its hard to take pics of glass work because you set to a time and its very messy with dust and resins.

[260BC]

Fixed, i am undertaking a full dry carbon Jza80 for time attack, i might be able to snap pics in the mean time and post in here, usually its hard to take pics of glass work because you set to a time and its very messy with dust and resins.

Thanks In that second pic of yours it looks like there is a horizontal bar connecting the ends of the doors, anyway it looks like what I propose to do.

[34jzgte]

Heres a quick airbox adapter i made with the engine conversion on the bike,

Cutting the side of the airbox out and intake pipe for ram air.


Tape it up


Lay it up


Take it off, trim edges with scissors while is not fully cured.


Test fit.


Next is just another layer of glass, sand a few stages and gel coat and it will be a nice looking part.

[260BC]

Cool When pouring foam into a door how is it controlled to form the shape wanted? I'm thinking of inserting a flat mould with big holes in it to form the outer shape, spaced away from the outer skin to form a cavity, and then pouring the foam in through the holes.

[34jzgte]

I wouldnt pour it into a door and leave it, over time it will rot if you dont want the door to be solid put some cross bracing in the shape of H.
you can mold with the foam and then melt it out with some type of thinners if its a once off, like ducting work on the front of the car.

[260BC]

The foam idea is for it to be a permanent type to help absorb any impacts from outside. Guess it would insulate a bit too.