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I normally only use the LH nozzle for printing so to stop the RH nozzle from dragging over a print I removed it.
The LH nozzle clogged and wouldn't extrude or retract the filament so I had to cut the filament a bit above the entry into the print head. There's no way to remove the heater/nozzle blocks as they don't have a plug like the UP does, so a lot more difficult to soak in acetone to clear them. But I tried to get enough slack in the wires so I could get it out of the mounting block. I tried to remove the nozzle but it block off the threaded part in the heater block so that's stuffed.
I really wanted to do a print with it so I started to swap over to the RH extruder but the heater block is loose on the shaft for some reason so I don't want to use it. The shaft is quite tight in the mount - so tight that I can't easily remove it in fact - so the printer is effectively unusable at the moment.
To get to the end of the story I found out that Wanhao printers are the same so I ordered one of these - http://www.aliexpress.com/item/wanha...308530111.html
Fingers crossed wiring it up won't be too difficult.
Interestingly, the Chinese 3D printer manufacturers are only allowed to make government approved designs. I note the Wanaho has Mk8 extruders so the assembly you have ordered should slot right in. BTW for future reference, any work you do on the hot-ends should be done with them heated up to operating temps. This means, heater removal, thermistor removal and nozzle removal. The reason the heater block is loose on one of the extruders is that the nozzle isn't snugged up to it or the block has made a part-turn up the shaft. The nozzle threads into the block but the interference with the top edge of the nozzle nips the heater block up tight. The whole assembly is complicated by heat and whatever melted plastic remains. The plastic tends to glue everything together, hence needing heat for dis-assembly.
“Buy the ticket, take the ride.’”
― Hunter S. Thompson
Interestingly, the Chinese 3D printer manufacturers are only allowed to make government approved designs. I note the Wanaho has Mk8 extruders so the assembly you have ordered should slot right in. BTW for future reference, any work you do on the hot-ends should be done with them heated up to operating temps. This means, heater removal, thermistor removal and nozzle removal. The reason the heater block is loose on one of the extruders is that the nozzle isn't snugged up to it or the block has made a part-turn up the shaft. The nozzle threads into the block but the interference with the top edge of the nozzle nips the heater block up tight. The whole assembly is complicated by heat and whatever melted plastic remains. The plastic tends to glue everything together, hence needing heat for dis-assembly.
Okay thanks for all that.
I'll try screwing in the RH nozzle to see if it helps.
Just cheap build your own kit Bill. Got it from a chap in sydney whop puts the kit together and you build it yourself, including arduino, control box, screen, wiring etc.
Just cheap build your own kit Bill. Got it from a chap in sydney whop puts the kit together and you build it yourself, including arduino, control box, screen, wiring etc.
Pretty good. Can you send me a link to the bloke in Sydney that sells the kits? Does he lave larger ones?
I see you're using Simplify3D software as well. That works very well on my Flashforge.
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