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cant weld aluminium for shit - advice ??

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    #46
    Originally posted by Dimi View Post
    You need to melt the base metal in order to weld it?
    In order to do that i don't want to move heat from the material to the tungsten. I want to heat the material as quickly as possible so i can add filler and get moving.
    Regardless of your heat distribution or whatever you want to call it, aluminium's melting point doesn't change because of your AC balance or frequency or anything else. All you are doing is slowing down the time it takes for heat to build up in the material and form a puddle.

    The simple answer is. Increase your initial amperage to form a puddle quickly, increase your travel speed. Because you work too slow and you heat the surrounding metal, you are overheating the material that's why its falling away as you described.

    Just so you know i'm not saying you are wrong, sometimes you have to do what whatever to get the job done. I'm trying to say there is a better way although i'm not sure how to put that into effective words on internet.
    It is all well and good to just say increase travel speed, but for newer welders this is probably the hardest part of welding, so being able to concentrate on getting a good puddle going without nuking the material is helpful. Even if you do burn through your consumables faster.

    Its not ideal, but for learning it is invaluable.
    Chris
    ------
    The new nugget
    I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

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      #47
      Originally posted by takai View Post
      It is all well and good to just say increase travel speed, but for newer welders this is probably the hardest part of welding, so being able to concentrate on getting a good puddle going without nuking the material is helpful. Even if you do burn through your consumables faster.

      Its not ideal, but for learning it is invaluable.
      Of course it is hard, although i'm not sure xnke is early in learning curve?
      Just my opinion, if you genuinely want to become good at anything, you need direction.
      Nobody can point the finger at you and say, weld faster now and it magically happen. You can take useful information under your wing, keep it in mind and eventually it will happen. End of the day, we are all still learning in some way, you think if someone like shauns metal says hey Dim, you should try doing it like this instead because XYZ, i'm going to tell him my way is better? I might not adopt the method but i'll sure as shit give it a go.

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        #48
        Best way to increase travel speed in days past, was to practice filler feed through your fingers, when not actually welding - so basically becomes a muscle memory action.

        The OP's problem is possibly insufficient amps if there's not something contaminating. Assuming it's 1.6 rather than a metric 1.5mm wall, I'd probably go 80+ amps, get a near instant shiny weld pool, then tack in 3 or 4 spots. Restarts on the tacks might stop any oops moment, when the keyhole forms dab, probably using 2.4 rod to take some of the heat out. Don't know if there's variable amperage control available, but foot off the accelerator after a bit of travel is usually required - and back way off to avoid a finishing crater.

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          #49
          You aren't going to move fast enough to run on heavily oxidized high-shine 1mm thickness tubing or intercooler end tanks without fiddling with the balance. 1.5mm tubing, if it's that polished supershiny stuff, is STILL going to melt the base metal, before your arc can finish stripping away the refractory aluminum oxides from the surface-you're never going to see a shiny weld pool form up before the tubing just melts away. You can wirebrush all you want on some of that stuff-it just won't break the oxide layer until you break out the file, or play with the balance to rip off some of that surface oxide before you start putting heat in.

          On mill finish tubing, no problems. I've only ever had problems with the shiny polished stuff, a lot of the polishes use aluminum or cerium oxides as the abrasive to do the polishing, and they both embed into the aluminum and have MUCH higher melting points than the base metal. Some of the shiny ebay intercooler pipe kits, or sheet aluminum that's been polished on one side, always gives trouble.

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            #50
            Man, i busted out the TIG today to make a quick cover for the MX5 gear shifter boot. Hoooooly hell am I rusty. Could barely lay a consistent bead.
            Chris
            ------
            The new nugget
            I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

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              #51
              Ok, im really struggling with welding on weld-on bosses, mainly with the difference in power needed for getting a puddle going on the weld on vs the 2mm alu sheet. Is it just a case of practice makes perfect, or are there ways to help with this?
              Chris
              ------
              The new nugget
              I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

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                #52
                Originally posted by takai View Post
                Ok, im really struggling with welding on weld-on bosses, mainly with the difference in power needed for getting a puddle going on the weld on vs the 2mm alu sheet. Is it just a case of practice makes perfect, or are there ways to help with this?
                Hopefully not telling you how to suck eggs but start the puddle on the boss and barely flow it down to the sheet. Sharp tungsten and high frequency to tighten the arc.

                Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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                  #53
                  Originally posted by da9jeff View Post
                  Hopefully not telling you how to suck eggs but start the puddle on the boss and barely flow it down to the sheet. Sharp tungsten and high frequency to tighten the arc.

                  Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
                  Yeah, that is what im doing. More practice required methinks.

                  Might buy a rod of alu hex, and cut chunks of it to weld to some scrap plate.
                  Chris
                  ------
                  The new nugget
                  I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

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                    #54
                    And use a blowtorch to preheat the bung
                    Mit freundlichen Gre

                    Originally posted by Keith Duckworth
                    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

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                      #55
                      If U are quick just use your oven
                      3D scanning
                      3D modelling
                      Structural certification
                      3 and 5 axis milling

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                        #56
                        With that mismatched thickness I generally only have a slight bit of trouble until the weld pool has bridged the 2 metals. Generally I start a puddle on each metal to add a dab of filler. Usually the silicone or other alloying element reduces the melting temp and makes it easier to merge together. Just focus arc more on the one with more mass.

                        I dont generally have to do much of that other milarky mentioned previously and I have welded a wide range of ally including that cheap nasty polished stuff from eBay with minimal fuss and still achieving a presentable weld using a cheap Chinese AC TIG welder. So I dont think I would be able too add any further advice other than keep practicing.

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                          #57
                          Part of it I think is the polish they have hit this thing with, but still struggling a bit. Switched to a gas lens rather than the standard cups and it has gone better, but still a hell of a lot more practice required though.

                          Pretty sure some bits on my cheap chinese welder are mis labeled though, and wondering whether i should grab some new 2.4mm 4043 rod rather than the hand me down 1.6mm 5356.
                          Chris
                          ------
                          The new nugget
                          I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

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                            #58
                            if you're unlucky the cheap "polished" alloy tube is sometimes anodised, then it's a real pain in the arse as the heat required to break through the anodised layer is WAY higher than the melting point of the alloy or usual surface oxides, so when you do get through it the tube falls away. I use a fine metal file and stainless brush to prep that stuff

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                              #59
                              as i also recently found out, the Chinese shiny tubes can also be made out of a god-knows-what-alloy-mix-of-recycled-shit and simply dont weld. theyre so full of magnesium and silicone and fucks knows what else they spit and splatter and its a fucking nightmare to make anything half serious stick together

                              i blame these guys



                              Mit freundlichen Gre

                              Originally posted by Keith Duckworth
                              "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

                              Comment


                                #60
                                I went past Sydney Tools today and bought some Zirconiated electrodes (white) and fresh 2.4mm filler rod. Any tips for grind angle on white vs red tip?
                                Chris
                                ------
                                The new nugget
                                I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

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