airflow meter any good? their bad for fucking up and give the symptoms you describe
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Captain! i canna get no oil pressure!
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Originally posted by Rdyno70ynu has to be the most retarded cunt here. "Help me please" me "you need to remove your head" him "fuck off cunt I'm to lazy fuck off out of my thread you told me to do something I don't want to do so you're a cunt fuck off can some one please tell me an easier way???"Originally posted by TripperIts a tight battle between you and rogercordia for the most retarded member on here, thou i think you have it by 5 window licks
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Changing cams means you really have to check the cam timing at the valve gear- the new cam could be twenty degrees out with the marks in the right position. Very low cylinder pressures will let you run static advance like you describe.
What specs do you have for the cam? Easiest one is inlet lift No1 at tdc. Then you set up an indicator on the follower or the valve stem (depending on what figures you have) and wind the engine from bdc to tdc and see what lift you have. Oh, you have to check tdc is exactly as marked on the balancer first- a piece of soft wire down no.1 plughole will help tell you if it is prtty much right.
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Was under the impression that its impossible to get the cam timing wrong because of the dowl pin in the camshaft for when you attach the cam gear to to it, then the xx amount of belt teeth between it and the crank
Either way, this problem has existed before this head went on.... can lack of compression from rooted rings cause the misfiring on full throttle below 2000rpm?
engine has no noticable blowby and the piping for the pcv system is always clean
Not really in the mood for taking the engine out
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A stock cam will be within a few degrees of right based on the pin position. Once it is an aftermarket or regrind then you HAVE to check the actual timing at the valve. Also a worn chain or sprockets will change things. I know it might seem hard, but if you check it and it needs adjusting you are up for a set of adjustable gears or redrill the pin.
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i've had this sort of problem before on rb30's, just never so bad it backfires.
i found that cam timing, ignition timing, and the AFM adjustment all effected it. eventually i got rid of it on my car by tweaking these.
does the GTS1 have a differently mapped ECU you should be using? (or is that the GTS2 only)
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