running in an engine

[Tuff350]

Originally posted by howy


All of my engines have gone straight from the engine stand to the dyno or to the race track. I have never had a failure or a leak down problem. (touch wood)

You start the engine one of two ways dependant on if you have fitted a new flat tappet cam of not. If you have fitted a new cam PM me and i'll explain.

The most important thing is to give it an oil change immediately after the startup to wash out all the assembly lube and swarf.

How true howey

My last 2 engines I have built one was a 240Z 6 cyl I bedded the rings in was thin shitty oil dumped it changed the filter put the good stuff, then I reversed her out on the street and hung a 6 grand burnout that was 10 years ago and the engine still goes pretty hard..

My second one is the 350 in my gemini and that is still going hard and that was 3 years ago the only differance was a 5 grand burnout in second..

My other engines that i was told run in for the first 500 then change oil drive it like a baby etc etc etc they are all fuked.. lazy engines

cheers hope this helps

[Phantom Drifta]

When I recently bought my S15, the salesman at Nissan (who is also a mechanic) told me that I didnat have to worry about running the engine in. He said that nissan now run the engines in before they go out. He said just to take it easy for the first 500kms and then drive it like normal. Does anyone know if this is true???

[muttaburra]

my mate who built me ET motor and use to build race motors said the same as Tuff350. get in and flog the tits of it from day dot. if its going to break you might as well break it the first time u drive it. that way its going to be easier to fix.

however. i really couldnt bring my self to do that to a brand new engine.

i think both ways work. just dont baby it too much in the first 500k's u dont want the bores to glaze.

mick

[10sec rx7]

when i ran in my new piston motor i drove it hard, revved to 7000, dropped the oil after 100km, and put in the cheapest sh!t i could find (usually franklins) then drove 600km on that drving it like i normally would then changed the oil and its still going strong now even after i put 30,000 vlave bouncing km's on it!!

[Turbo 351]

I've been told to run a straight 30 weight oil not a multigrade, and to ensure the oil has no detergents in it. Penzoil and Penright both make oils that fit the description.

[gizmoe]

when i rebuilt my engine i used pennzoil runing in oil and like everyone seems to be saying it is a mineral oil and think its 30w?
i actually did 500km then changed the oil and filter then did another 500km's. the reason i changed it at 500km was because
i wanted to cut the filter open and make sure there wasn't any nasty metal filings that shouldn't be in there!
I generally cut open ALL my filters when changing to check that theres nothing in there that shouldn't be! as for driving carefully i think it depends on wat rings u have as well! mates torona has thin rings? and was told not to baby it at all and within a couple of hundred k's it should be run in! also with my capri it ran quite a bit cooler once it was run in so think that started happening just b4 1000km!

[LinX]

Re: Re: running in an engine

Originally posted by Hqcoupe350


Fill your motor with cheap oil (cheap oil is the best run-in oil) and warm it up completely. I would go through at least half a tank of fuel on it's first outing. For the first 100k's or so, don't give it light throttle. Yes, thats right, No light throttle. On your first stretch give it about half throttle through the gears to about 2/3 of your max rpm, but NEVER downchange the gears as you slow down - pop it in neutral if you need to. Then give it full throttle through the gears to about 2/3 max revs again. While your driving don't be afraid to punch the throttle frequently and try to avoid cruising at constant rpm. After the first 100k's, one good method is to drop speed down to about 50kmh and give it full throttle in third gear. Once it starts to loosen up a bit, take it to max rpm a few times at full throttle.

The reason for the cheap oil is because good oil is almost too slippery, and won't wear in the fresh parts enough. The reason for giving the motor a good amount of throttle is so that your piston rings seal properly which is a critical part of your engine life and performance.

this is the way I would go about it and is just about how I do it in the gokart and there very hi strung engines

[Kangz]

Agree with what's been said, basically give it heaps and don't let it idle.

Don't listen to car dealerships or engine builders who tell you to baby it. That's bullshit. All they are doing is covering their asses so, in the event that they ****ed up, it may right itself.