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School me on oil seals

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    #16
    its possible. it should only go in to be flush with the outside housing or the actual lip can drop off the edge of the running surface and into the crack prevention groove, or get bashed hard up against the vertical crank surface. Sometimes this is not the case and you can be lucky.
    Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons


    Originally posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

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      #17
      i figured the rear main was leaking as well, then questioned why because from memory this seal can not go in too far, sits bottomed out on the retainer piece.

      on the cams however and oil pump, you can easily knock them in too far and block the drain hole bill talked about earlier. make sure they are level only, not much further.

      if the rear main is fine, but others aren't this may well be the entire issue. drive shaft seals, not familar with the model car, but also possible, but can not guarantee it.

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        #18
        I'm 90% sure the rear main is leaking too unless its the gearbox input shaft seal or coming down from the cam covers.
        RB40DET

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          #19
          Originally posted by Billzilla View Post
          I use a large socket, and use the old seal between that and the new one to take the hits. Note that some seals need to dump the oil they stop back into the engine so they don't go in all the way - For example if you knock the cam seals all the way back to the solid metal in a 4AGE head, they'll piss out oil right from brand new. They need the gap behind them to let the oil escape.
          I doubt a crank seal is like that but I guess it's possible. It's also possible to have a small mark in the crank journal, from where the old seal(s) runs, and that can let a little oil out. If that's the case you can either cheat a little by not pushing in the seal quite as far, say 0.5mm, or use a Speedisleeve to made the journal like new.
          like on the xf falcons
          Originally posted by Carroll Smith
          The price of Man in motion is the occasional collision.
          Royalpurple Oils

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            #20
            Well the first thing that I would do is to clean the motor with degreaser and hose this off with water from underneath, take it for a drive to get it up to temp and then let it idle in the garage with some sheets of newspaper underneath, this way you should be able to determine exactly where it's coming from.

            The only other thing if I can ask is did you put some grease under the lip of the seal? as a lip seal can be burnt from fricton at start up quite quickly and the damage is done.
            2017 Ford Ranger XLT (Jeep Wrangler recovery vehicle)
            2007 KTM 250 SX

            Originally posted by Monza
            I've never considered myself the type of guy to eat arse but I am currently reviewing that policy

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              #21
              Are all the vac/breather hoses/pcv done correctly? Could be boosting the crankcase from the pressurised inlet...

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                #22
                It may be too far in as well. I remember when doing the timing belt on a 6g73 Magna motor, there was no back stop so I tapped in the top cam seal and it went all the way in to the bloody head so I had to pull the cam cover off and push it out futher.
                Jason Broadhurst

                Someone once asked me if they could use my mower. I said "sure, so long as it doesn't leave my yard"

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                  #23
                  All breathers and stuff is factory - how does it work?
                  Once boost builds, how does the crankcase stop from pressurising? Does it vent to the intake of the turbos?
                  RB40DET

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