drilling a sump- in the car

[PLAYA]

This is a classic example how this will turn to shit, then you will bitch when your motor is fucked. Don't be a stooge cunt and just do it right the first time.

[Jay_G]

I will admit this is dodgy and should only be done as a last resort without if you cannot remove the sump, if you are being lazy i think you should man up and lift the motor and pull the sump. but if you have to do it, pack the flutes of the drill bit with grease and remove it often when drilling to clean and repack. It also might not hurt to pour a litre or so of fresh oil into the motor and straight out the drain to try flush it a bit. And if it is a steel sump get a magnetic sump plug.

[BigMuz]

There is a big arse oil filter that will catch all the shit. Loosen up a bit!

If you genuinely don't fear the worst case scenario then just drill and change the oil after you run it for 5 minutes.

If fucking the engine worries you then pull the sump.

[Glenno]

There is a big arse oil filter that will catch all the shit. Loosen up a bit!

If you genuinely don't fear the worst case scenario then just drill and change the oil after you run it for 5 minutes.

If fucking the engine worries you then pull the sump.

How many engines have the oil pump after the filter though? Pretty easy to do damage to an oil pump if swarf gets through the strainer.

[Sturmovik]

Ive used a punch before on steel plate sumps, works well.

[mx6KLZE]

I took my sump off and had a shop drill and weld a tap fitting onto it. Beautiful job (at CHE) and has never let me down. Very often when you take shortcuts it comes back to bite you in the ass later. I have learned that. The things I did properly work 3 years today, the things I was lazy or tight ass about thinking "nah it will be alright" have failed on me, or I am constantly worried they will fail. Don't know how hard it is to take the sump off an Mx5(change the 5 to a 6 and you have my car, so it cant be that hard/different), but I find doing things the right way is the best way.

[briney]

grease the drill(s) and tap. then drain oil and flush with some petrol or something ? you'd be amazed at some of the shit that floats around in sumps.

[Greg Rust]

Guys, thanks for your concerns and yes I was fully aware of the greasing the flutes trick and also greasing the tap also, wouldn't be the first time or the last.

Since this is a pressed steel pan, I did have intentions of using some magnets to check for any remaing swarf, since the sump still has oil in there, gravity would dictate that these heavy items would drop to the bottom, where the oil is drained and inspected and then the heavy Neodymium magnets come out for a wave around as a final precaution.

No harm in also pouring some oil through it also.

[hemiturbo]

Don't use a drill, use a hole saw and fillit with silastisc silicon which is stickier than grease and also put air pressure in the rocker cover cap to pressurise the sump (if you can).

How do you plan on welding the drain in,thats the hardest bit?.

[Greg Rust]

Drill and tap for NPT fitting as was supplied in the OP's kit.

Holesaw not accurate enough for thread tapping.

[tinkerbell]

greasing the tap also, wouldn't be the first time or the last.

Since this is a pressed steel pan, .

you are tapping a fitting into a pressed steel sump?

must be pretty thick?

i would take it off and get it welded!

[tinkerbell]

ps - i missed the bit about why it is so hard to remove a sump on a MX5?

[Greg Rust]

I would expect it to be 1.2-1.6mm thick which means that the NPT fine thread should have a reasonable purchase, it's a taper thread and since it's a return line there is no pressure.

One of my previous cars I did take the sump off and welded a fitting into the sump.

[Greg Rust]

ps - i missed the bit about why it is so hard to remove a sump on a MX5?

I don't know, its not my car.

Can someone tell me if it's a head fuck to remove the sump insitu?

[Monza]

fuck, what a shit fight

I'm just going on the instructions from Corky Bell. Also looked over the turbomiata site and a lot of the experienced guys on there say it is no problems and reckon they have done it a few times.

the plan is heavily grease the bit, re apply two or three times during the drill. let sit for a few hours. then drain the oil. Pour a litre of sovent down the line. replace bung, new filter, oil etc.

youse cunts have me stumped now