FWD v6 '93 Galant Driveline Vibration

[karl_2ltGC]

Snavy - Know much about the IACV's on these things. I'm certain mine has just stopped working the other day, I have pulled it out, cleaned it but its got a 1500-1650 idle depending on temperature. I'm trying to work out which one to buy. The part number on it was E9T152920 5x12D...
I reckon one for a 6g72 would be same then I can just get -http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-IDLE-AIR-CONTROL-VALVE-IAC-FITS-ALL-3-0L-V6-MOTOR-/160782565555?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &fits=Model%3A3000GT&hash=item256f6340b3&vxp=mtr#h t_3022wt_1185

or this - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Idle-Air-...c#ht_955wt_952

[snavy]

Yep these are common fault! You need to measure the resistance between terminals 1-2, 2-3, 4-5 and 5-6. Cant remember what it should be but I think 30k ohms. If the test doesn't have all coils reading the same resistance (one higher) then stepper is stuffed. Test while hot as well, as sometimes it only shows the fault while hot.

http://www.cyberspaceautoparts.com.a...eed_Motor.html

Seems to be the same as some magnas?

[karl_2ltGC]

Well fuck me it wasnt the IACV.... replaced with a new one and no difference, check the resistance on old one and they are all 50ohm, i was certain it was the IACV because I had previously forgot to plug the thing in after doing the plugs an it run the same. Now I'm thinking it may be ecu, it does not seem to be closing the valve at all.
With the old one i turned it all the way closed and the car spluttered and then lifted the idle, then has remained that way.
Could this be a ECU issue or another sensor?

[karl_2ltGC]

Turned out the cunting TPS decided it was no longer in the correct position, was giving signal of open throttle all the time....

[snavy]

There may be a dead spot in the tps. Think pins 1 & 3 are responsible for the idle position switch of the TPS. IT should show no continuity when throttle closed with a .65 thickness screw between the fixed SAS and butterfly.

[TW2005]

So the Galant has got this annoying driveline vibration, happens any speed over 80ks and under throttle. Up hills is worst for it.
More throttle = more vibration. No vibrations when coasting.
Just bought new tyres and vibration has not changed from earlier rooted ones.
Seems to be worse in 5th gear than in fourth.. but could just be that engine will be under more load at same revs.

No clicking noise from uni's, all the boots are in good condition.
Steering wheel gets no wobbles, vibration is all through the chassis.

The inner CV joints are stuffed. Been putting up with it on mine since Sep 2010.

Just replaced both shafts which are hard to find. Replacements not exactly the same length but so far so good. Feels like a brand new car.

My inner RHS was badly worn(through the hardening) and cracked the casing internally. LHS was still good. OEM shafts a 300 000K. The right had had the inner boot replaced and looked water and dirt entry. Probably what killed it. Rest of boots still OEM but cracking.

[snavy]

Man if its doing it under load how is that a inner CV problem? Ive worked on so many mitsubishis and not one has had vibration issues due to play in an inner drive shaft joint.

[TW2005]

Man if its doing it under load how is that a inner CV problem? Ive worked on so many mitsubishis and not one has had vibration issues due to play in an inner drive shaft joint.

We're talking drivetrain load at higher speeds, not a heavily loaded motor and it only takes any acceleration above the 80Kmh to make this bad.

Accelerating would push the tripod into those large worn recesses and be off centre.

What do you think happens to a shaft that is off centre, off balance and spinning in the 1000's of RPM and then add torsional load to it? A bit wobbly do you think?

You may not have come across it however you can take my word for it since I have the exact same vehicle with the exact same symptoms which I have now fixed with the shaft replacement.

Happy to you give you a snappy of the said damaged inner RHS joint.

It's was also worse in fifth than forth. Started around 80-90Kmh , bad at 100Kmh would balance out a bit at 110Kmh and worsened with acceleration and not to bad coasting.

I've driven FWD Mitsubishis since 1995 first time I've had a bad inner however after seeing that the boot was not original and there was some red oxide inside I'm going to assume that at some stage it may have been driven with a split boot and then rebooted but damage was already done.

Everything wears out eventually it's got 300,000K but LHS was good and still had OEM boot.

I also noticed there was bluing of the outer housing suggesting high heat and on a drive to Sydney it was so bad up hills I thought I was going to spit a shaft. Changing down to 4 helped a little.

[karl_2ltGC]

Yea mine has done 312k. I'm a bit more resistant to spending any money or time on it, atm I have another car and the Galant just needs to drive me 3.5ks to work then get parked under the extreme UV that is Mildura sunshine.
Bloody thing just does not know how to die, did a few 1,100k round trips Mildura to Melbourne and it just does not stop.

I don't trust replacement shafts on this thing but would potentially bang new CV's onto the original shafts, but I've been waiting for the clutch to die to give me a reason to pull the entire driveline and fix a few little things. To be honest the car is slowly reaching the end of its life, I keep looking for a 6a12TT halfcut as If I coukld find one I would definately give the car a birthday as its so bloody useful/practical with the hatch and towbar.

[Rdyno]

Yea it's the cv shafts lolololololol I would not fill engine mounts with sikaflex there are voids for a reason.

[TW2005]

Yea mine has done 312k. I'm a bit more resistant to spending any money or time on it, atm I have another car and the Galant just needs to drive me 3.5ks to work then get parked under the extreme UV that is Mildura sunshine.
Bloody thing just does not know how to die, did a few 1,100k round trips Mildura to Melbourne and it just does not stop.

I don't trust replacement shafts on this thing but would potentially bang new CV's onto the original shafts, but I've been waiting for the clutch to die to give me a reason to pull the entire driveline and fix a few little things. To be honest the car is slowly reaching the end of its life, I keep looking for a 6a12TT halfcut as If I coukld find one I would definately give the car a birthday as its so bloody useful/practical with the hatch and towbar.

I was hesitant but reached the end of my tether. My car should have died a peaceful death but for $400 bucks I could not help myself and got it as a project. Spent a lot of time researching/digging for parts. Most I source direct from mits texas. Once you have the ASA catalogs and can work it all out it's cheaper and easier than most of the aftermarket stuff. forget about MMAL, total ripoffs.

Sharing a similar platform as the Eclipse there's a lot of parts that crossover. I even get my pads genuine($35-40 an end) and are great. I've even replaced the infamous lateral arms in the front. OEM $30 ea! 2 years ago + $60 postage . Here about $300 OEM. 2 of the rear arms are the same as 3rd gen magnas.

The shafts were about $275 a pair installed myself. Interparts was on the boots and boxed as DTA A273 & A274. Worth every cent. The car is so nice to drive now.
You'll struggle to find the inner joints, outers no worries. I've kept the old ones just in case because I am a little anxious about the small length differences. all I'd need is an old shaft with a good inner to get the right side good again.
MB937306 is the number for just the inner kit.