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Engine stand to engine bolt strength

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    #16
    just use really wide zipties.
    Originally posted by tim510
    More rabbit less turtle!

    "No new car will ever be better for the environment than an old car that already exists. Unless that old car is a left-wheel drive communist shitbox made of uranium, asbestos and luekemia", oioioioioi

    "When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all", god
    http://www.Tutter.net

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      #17
      i use 10.9's only because there all i can find in the old bolts draw the right size for my engine

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        #18
        I reckon a clevo with cast iron heads would be on the scale of heavy, near the top, I just used some black grade 8.8 fasteners random length with some big nuts as washers.

        Don't stress.
        2017 Ford Ranger XLT (Jeep Wrangler recovery vehicle)
        2007 KTM 250 SX

        Originally posted by Monza
        I've never considered myself the type of guy to eat arse but I am currently reviewing that policy

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          #19
          Originally posted by Greg Rust
          Don't stress.
          I'm starting to see a common theme emerging here ...

          :D
          ?

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            #20
            Stress your fastener, not your head.
            2017 Ford Ranger XLT (Jeep Wrangler recovery vehicle)
            2007 KTM 250 SX

            Originally posted by Monza
            I've never considered myself the type of guy to eat arse but I am currently reviewing that policy

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              #21
              Just be sure they engage as much thread as possible, especially in an alloy block.

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                #22
                I think I re-used the old nissan head bolts to hold up my CA
                PF Gamers List

                Originally posted by klampykixx
                if a motor has big enough injectors to run say, 7psi but only just starts to max out right on rev limit, will it run more boost lower in the revs without maxing out if you lower the rev limit?

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by Greg Rust View Post
                  I reckon a clevo with cast iron heads would be on the scale of heavy, near the top, I just used some black grade 8.8 fasteners random length with some big nuts as washers.

                  Don't stress.
                  I was always more worried about the flex in the stand - used to have a prop under the balancer when rolling it cross country to keep it from fatigueing at the bottom joints...
                  "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

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                    #24
                    I welded nuts to some studs and rounded off the hex so they fitted inside the sleeve on the engine stand and used normal bell housing bolts into them. It looks as dodgy as it sounds.
                    97 Express van 4G63 compound Turbo Tdo5/HX40 @ 34.7234psi.

                    Gone--
                    93 GSR 1.8L 406whp 11.6@126mph

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by xm-221 View Post
                      I've got Holden 6cyl head bolts holding a Clevo and a 250 crossflow on the engine stands at work. Use whatever you can find, the higher the grade the better though.
                      what kind of engine stand do you have the clevo on? we tried 2 different stands when attempting to do a rear main on the boat motor. even tried welding steel onto the second one to stiffen it and it was still creaking and groaning. we gave up and took it to the engine builder to deal with.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by xm-221 View Post
                        I've got Holden 6cyl head bolts holding a Clevo and a 250 crossflow on the engine stands at work. Use whatever you can find, the higher the grade the better though.
                        what kind of engine stand do you have the clevo on? we tried 2 different stands when attempting to do a rear main on the boat motor. even tried welding steel onto the second one to stiffen it and it was still creaking and groaning. we gave up and took it to the engine builder to deal with.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by Billzilla View Post
                          Luxury.
                          Mine's got bolts that have been cut in half and welded back together with extensions to make them long enough.
                          Opened thread to say this. I used some 8mm round bar to extend the bolts in mine...
                          Used to be TehEkHo

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by Rdyno View Post
                            i use 10.9's only because there all i can find in the old bolts draw the right size for my engine
                            I amnot even going to start correcting this.
                            Originally posted by 350stato
                            100% agree with Shifty

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by Shifty View Post
                              I amnot even going to start correcting this.
                              I'm
                              2017 Ford Ranger XLT (Jeep Wrangler recovery vehicle)
                              2007 KTM 250 SX

                              Originally posted by Monza
                              I've never considered myself the type of guy to eat arse but I am currently reviewing that policy

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                                #30
                                Photo of one of our half-arsed bolts for lols.
                                Attached Files

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