Originally posted by Greg Rust
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Engine stand to engine bolt strength
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FFS go to local bolt shop spend $10-15 and buy 4 bolts the correct size. The time you would spend looking for the right bolts, cutting, welding, modifying stuff is going to cost you more than the trip.www.DRIVENFX.com Performance Engine Building, Auto Electrical (Wiring Looms, ECU Installs, Diganoses and Repair), Custom Automotive Electronics, Car Preparation, Car Setup, Trackside Services,
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I tried this today so i could mount a 2j to my $69 sca stand, the cunts wanted $26.50 per fucking bolt be fucked if im paying $106 for bolts to hold an engine to a standOriginally posted by Glenno View PostFFS go to local bolt shop spend $10-15 and buy 4 bolts the correct size. The time you would spend looking for the right bolts, cutting, welding, modifying stuff is going to cost you more than the trip.
FFS the ARP main stud kit for my 351 was only $120
So im looking for some 12x1.25x100mm bolts that wont rape me for priceList of cars goes here
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is this still for sale? wtf its a bolt that holds an engine up.. if you cannot pull that off try www.imafaggot.com.au
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The 6 bolts cost me the price of a new set of multigrips due to minimum spend on EFTPOS at Total Fasteners ...
Yes I was probably over thinking it but to explain the madness of my thoughts where I was coming from was this.
In an engine bay the bolts going from the bell housing to the engine are in the designed place and the engine to bell housing mating surfaces distribute the unsupported load evenly.
This would be placing relatively little stress on the bolts themselves which is mostly along their length? Once in the engine bay the engine/gearbox mounts support the lot as well.
On an engine stand the mating surfaces disappear concentrating the stresses/weight to 4 points as you use maximum 4 bolts instead of 6 or more and, the only supported area is the place where the bolts mount the engine to the stands' frame. To me now the stress on the bolts is more sheer related than along the length of the bolts meaning they should probably be better than Bunnings gal specials?
But carry on. As I made clear very early in the piece I have never done this hence the questions in case the thing drops on me, the wife, the kids or the cat after extended periods on the stand
?
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I paid $12 for the set of bolts currently holding the 2J to an engine stand at my workshop.Originally posted by Gassed250 View PostI tried this today so i could mount a 2j to my $69 sca stand, the cunts wanted $26.50 per fucking bolt be fucked if im paying $106 for bolts to hold an engine to a stand
FFS the ARP main stud kit for my 351 was only $120
So im looking for some 12x1.25x100mm bolts that wont rape me for price
This is your problem Total Fasteners are a bunch of cunts owned by Blackwoods who only want to deal with big industry not the general public.Originally posted by OvlovMan View PostThe 6 bolts cost me the price of a new set of multigrips due to minimum spend on EFTPOS at Total Fasteners ...
Yes I was probably over thinking it but to explain the madness of my thoughts where I was coming from was this.
In an engine bay the bolts going from the bell housing to the engine are in the designed place and the engine to bell housing mating surfaces distribute the unsupported load evenly.
This would be placing relatively little stress on the bolts themselves which is mostly along their length? Once in the engine bay the engine/gearbox mounts support the lot as well.
On an engine stand the mating surfaces disappear concentrating the stresses/weight to 4 points as you use maximum 4 bolts instead of 6 or more and, the only supported area is the place where the bolts mount the engine to the stands' frame. To me now the stress on the bolts is more sheer related than along the length of the bolts meaning they should probably be better than Bunnings gal specials?
But carry on. As I made clear very early in the piece I have never done this hence the questions in case the thing drops on me, the wife, the kids or the cat after extended periods on the stand
www.DRIVENFX.com Performance Engine Building, Auto Electrical (Wiring Looms, ECU Installs, Diganoses and Repair), Custom Automotive Electronics, Car Preparation, Car Setup, Trackside Services,
PM me for more info
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They shouldn't - the studs that are (usually, at least) either the back of the engine or front of the bell housing take that load, the bolts just clamp it all together.Originally posted by bigmuz View PostUmmm the bolts have to withstand the entire force of a clutch dump trying to twist the gearbox off the back of the engine. Sitting hanging on an engine stand from a couple of basic bolts should be ok..
But yeah it's not super critical.
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