so after finishing machining the adaptors and putting the solid bar in, it looks like the housing is bent. the cut end is off by about the thickness of the tube. the untouched end won't accept the adaptor. turning the adaptors doesn't help, neither does turning the bar so i reckon everything is straight and machined right. can anyone suggest any other reason it won't line up ?
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Originally posted by Skompa -
The housings would just not be straight from the factory, guy I know has a jig with hydraulic cylinder rod and bushes machined up for when he makes custom 9" centers, said the competition engineering sheet metal Diffs were way off.3D scanning
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so is it just a case of heating one side with the oxy to get it back to straight ? or putting it in a big press ?Originally posted by SkompaComment
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Either works - just heat the side of the tube that needs to be shortened so you've got a nice round cherry red spot, then let it cool, just like heat shrinking a panel, it will pull in at the heated spot - this is the traditional technique for cambering/toeing a live axle (up to a point)"Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."Comment
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Iirc the axle bearing rebate is machined straight into the end of the tube (well it was with the ford diff) so even if the axle tubes are off the line through the bearings will be spot on
I had a slight misalignment in the tubes after cutting them down, but the line through the bearings was perfect, im guessing BTR have a tolerance of a few mm for the tubes and then machine the bearing rebate to suitList of cars goes hereComment
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