rb20det starting problems...

[meggala]

yay congrats man I've been following this for ages good to hear you got it going with the help of the great bozz and yes he is great.
meggala

[tandy ass]

The NICS engine was the lower output version of the two RB20DET's, factory quoted output is 147kw, the silver top version varied between 159kw and 161kw auto and manual respectively, one thing for certain is the NICS engine can handle a shiteload of boost without blowing up, a mate had one around 4 years ago and had a VL Commodore T3 on it and the motor just would not blow up and boy did it go hard, it was a fair bit quicker than my stock R32 GTS4 Skyline when doing a rolling start, naturally 4WD owned him on takeoffs though, nothing like smoking all 4 as you launch off the line but now I'm getting off topic :p

The overboost sensor I dont know whether it's needed or not, nor what it is. Have a look at another NICS engine and see if it has it, if so then get it.

Good to hear you have it on the road finally!

Just make sure you dont muck up the wiring for the fuel pump because this is a safety feature in the event of an accident that the fuel pump stops pouring fuel into a possible fire. To ensure you have it right, start the engine and let it run then stall the motor by releasing the clutch in third or fourth gear and make 100% sure the fuel pump stops almost immediately. If you're not 100% sure of that, I'll be in adelaide in 3 weeks and might give ya a hand

Cheers

[kwazza11]

thanks guys i'm pretty stoked at finishing myself!
couple problems though.
first up bozz you were right (again!) about that wiring problem causing my car to run on! i had wired up the ign wires (white/purple wire from the ign relay) to constant power. fixed that and now it stops straight away. thanks a billion.

but the problems are it doesnt start straight away, sorta coughs and splutters into life.
also it almost feels like it gets flooded if i leave the key on ign for more than a couple seconds before hitting start! like it'll take 10-15 seconds of cranking to get it to start (if you can) or otherwise let it sit for a few seconds then try again.
wtf could this be?

[tandy ass]

LOL thats an easy one too.

You need to connect a wire from the start position of the ignition barrel to pin 43 of the ECU.

The wire is already there for you from the factory loom inside the car, refer to this diagram:

http://members.optushome.com.au/piss...R31wiring1.jpg

Pin 6 is the one you need to concern yourself with.

[kwazza11]

cool! thanks bozz, now its not flooding etc but its still pretty hard to start compared to the old rb30e. that used to spark up instantly the new engine seems to take its time, give it abit of throttle and finally it'll fire and settle down to a good idle.
also on throttle it'll bring up the low fuel light and it'll turn off when you back off, could it be draining all the pressure when at full noise? mabye i need a stronger pump?

also about that fuel pump, how did you wire it up so it switches off incase of a stall/crash/whatever?
i wired my pump up like you said, an ign wire going through a relay to earth on the coil side and the fuel earth (pin 2 on that plug in your last post) through to earth, so when ign power is on it closes the contact and earths the fuel pump shieldwire.

[meggala]

kwazza we must havbe photo of your car so we xcan see the work you have done.
cheers
meggala

[kwazza11]

for sure! i'll have to get the digital camera off my cousin and take some snaps. putting all my suspension bits in tomorrow. kyb shocks kmac spring whiteline sways, now all i need is rubber. pizza cutter-like 185s on 14in rims it's abominable! but i've got VERY limited funds so it's either tyres or the 3" exhaust!
2 1/2" into 2" fully sucks
but having it spin through first, second and chirp in third is no good for launches and hill runs thats for sure!

i made up an exhaust today for it from bits of the old exhaust (rear half and muffler) so i can now drive it on the streets. cant fit my pod i got inbetween all the cooler piping either so induction noise is insane! but i hate driving it with no filter, i'll have to make a custom extension tomorrow to fit.

anyway it's developed a few problems though, like the idle is really lumpy, problem is i cant get any info on the history of the car so i dunno whether its got cams or just out of tune?
it wont sit on a stead idle it'll go up and down all the time.

[tandy ass]

Going up and down you might have an air leak somewhere after the throttle body, typically if the air leak is there then you'll get wierd idling problems. Check all the pollution gear, all vaccuum and boost hoses & piping, make sure the intake manifold is sealed properly to the head, if all else fails then get the soapy water out and spray everything while blowing into the intake and see where the bubbles form.

[kwazza11]

aha! theres no vac hose where the overboost sensor (thats what the importer called it) should be! so theres a threaded fitting at the back of the plenum thats not plugged.. dont have anything to plug it with though.. i'll get a connection for it tomorrow and fit my boost gauge to it.

thanks bozz your a legend.

think i've figured out why the fuel light is coming on and both my headlights wernt working! looked at my volt gauge today and on throttle it was like 18volts!! off the scale of the stock gauge. scary! i turned on my high beams and they flickered a light blue color and then popped!
that'd be the alternator overcharging right?
looks like i gotta make another phone call to the importer, was going to anyway though, thrust bearing is noisy as and the box seems to play up abit..

[tandy ass]

I would suggest that 18 volts is a little bit high

Your battery would be bubbling and very hot if there was 18 volts across its terminals, check your ground and 12v connections again before returning the alternator!

[kwazza11]

its too late now! got an exchange unit from warrenty but they wouldnt agree with compensating my light globes i blew as a result. blew every light except the parkers at the front of the car.
both indicators and i'm seriously hoping it didnt do anything to the ecu.
also let the guy test drive it to show him the noises the gearbox makes and i'm getting an exchange box on thursday. took alot of talking to get him to agree with it considering how fcked the box sounds though.
i'm starting to think they gave my a dud engine and gearbox they just slapped together out of left overs.

[kwazza11]

ok heres something that worries me, my temp gauge works intermediately and today it decided to work. well on the way home from work it read one notch back from the H mark! farrrrkk!
do these engines run hotter or is my thermo not working or something? i used my r31 rb30e radiator, could this be too small?

also the new alternator worked a charm. obviousely the regulator was buggered. new set of globes and all my lights work! the low fuel light also stopped coming on.
bargain!

[meggala]

did you bleed the the water system after you filled it. the system required bleeding when filled from empty.
its the bolt at the end of the the intake manifold
meggala

[kwazza11]

aha!! thats prolly the fckin problem! i'll do that right now thanks heaps meggala

[tandy ass]

Yeah what he said or you could end up with a cracked head.