rb20det starting problems...

[kwazza11]

hmm speaking of cracked head... i did notice when i first had it started, that bubbles were slowly coming through the radiator and coming out at the cap! i dismissed it as air bleeding itself through the system (didnt know you had to bleed manually) but i checked it again just then when i bled it and theres still small bubbles coming through! also its making a ticking noise and another noise that sounds almost like a diesel hilux makes! but i dunno whether thats the gearbox's rattles virbrating through the engine or what. it also still idle's like a pig.

[kwazza11]

also blows abit of white smoke continously

oil is also clean

[tandy ass]

Smell the smoke, you can easily differenciate between petrol (running rich), oil (rings, head, head gasket or valve guides) and water - steam (head gasket or cracked head).

Yes the bubbles are normal in the radiator for the first 10 or 20 minutes after refilling a radiator.

[kwazza11]

well afm is cancelled for the lumpy idle, i'll pull the throttle body off and clean around it tomorrow. also while i'm at it i'll use your soapy water technique bozz. the importer tried 5 different AFM and the only one that eased it abit (still fairly up and down but not close to stalling anymore) was an rb20det gts4 flow meter.
i might change plugs aswell while im at it. what plugs are recommended for these? i know platinum ones are good but thier too pricey for my budget so whats the next step down?
got the new gearbox ready to go in tonight, whats the best g/box oil to put in it? last time i used cheap castrol stuff

[tandy ass]

The platinum ones are the ones to use as they are cheaper over the long run. They last around 100,000km and save heaps of time so you dont have to replace them as often.

[tandy ass]

Also it wont be the AFM causing the poor idle.

If I unplug the AFM on any of the engines I've owned (RB20DET, 25DET, 30E), it does nothing other than make the engine idle a tiny bit higher but still perfectly smooth.

You have something else that's causing the rough idle. Check the carbon cannister that all the pipes are in the right place (kink them to block the airflow through them just to test it), ensure the crankcase is sealed properly by removing the oil cap when the engine's idling and making sure the idle drops a tiny bit, kink all air hoses going to the plenum and the ones around the throttle body etc.

When you drive it, does it have a lot of power after chugging a bit? If so that could very well be rooted injectors or a faulty rising rate pressure regulator. Check the AAC and FICD (Auxilary Air Control and Fast Idle Control Device) which are the two devices on the back of the plenum chamber, ensure they aren't stuck open by removing them and blowing through them, check you indeed have the fuel supply line going to the intake and the return line coming from the pressure regulator. Even try unplugging the ECU and plugging it back in. Have you tightened the 10mm bolt on the front of the ECU to make sure the loom is properly connected? Check these sorts of things. If you have a leak after the throttle body, you should hear a hiss as the air rushes in.

[kwazza11]

thats the odd thing, there doesnt seem to be any affect on power delivery from the idle troubles. i'll pull out and clean up the throttle body and mabye pop the top off the plenum and check it out, clean it up etc.

btw i put my boost gauge on today and its running at 9-10psi!
i thought these cars were more like 7psi stock. mabye my actuator rod has been bent during its stay in japan?
anything else that will affect how much boost a car is running?

[GTSBoy]

RB20DET (ECCS) stock boost is 10 psi max.

[kwazza11]

aha! thanks for clearing that up GTS.

[kwazza11]

Bozz
just a clarification on wiring in the tacho, i solder that resistor between the 12v eccs relay pin 49 and the tacho out pin #7 right?

[tandy ass]

Uhuh

[kwazza11]

thanks bud.
and thanks for the advice on the TT.... although i keep fckin forgetting to let it run on after a good thrashing :p

[L Plater]

I thought this would be a good thread to post my dilemma.

I've just put a rb20det (r32) into a silvia and connected everything up except for the wiring. This is my first engine conversion and everything so far has been straight forward except I haven't touched the wiring yet. All I know is that I have to mate the skyline engine loom to the silvia engine bay and dash loom. Can someone give me a start on how to do this?

[kwazza11]

do what i did, get the r32 wiring diagrams and the silvia diagrams and find out where to source power (permanent, ignition etc) ground the brown earth bank, then the fun part is wiring in all the gauges, speedo, tacho etc.
goto my other thread in the engine conversion section and read that, bozz provided some awsomely helpful pictures of the plugs etc. also tells how to wire up your fuel pump in this thread and if you get stuck with anything else post it up..

but back to my overheating problem its still running hot but the guy at the importer said the gauge in my r31 wouldnt be calabrated to the sensor on my r32 eccs engine. is that right or is he just trying to get out of paying for a new thermostat?
can i put the r31 sensor into my rb20det?

other thread : http://board.performanceforums.com/f...eadid=67127105

[tandy ass]

The R32 NICS and ECCS temperature sender units have the same operation as the R31 RB30E temperature sender unit.

You have, in order of possibility;

A faulty thermostat and the engine's overheating

A faulty temperature sender and its reading wrong.

A faulty gauge in your instrument cluster (although it would always have read high in that case)

A faulty water pump causing the engine to overheat.

A blocked radiator not allowing enough water to flow through.

Block and head clogged with rust causing the water to not be able to cool the engine sufficiently.