Known Engine Problems (by engine model)

[GT-R LM]

Holden VR 1993 3.8L V6

well ive blown 1 at 158,000 km, and two of my mates blew theres at 160,000 km and 163,000 km

All spun Bearings.



Thraso.:D

[floody]

Volvo B21/23/230/A/E/ET/FT
These engines have a tendency to blow rear main seals*.
Normally one of 2 causes:
1. Over 350000kms.
2. They have a "flametrap" (I believe may be a euphemism for PCV or other crankcase venting system), which can get blocked, causing much higher than average crankcase pressures in extended trips and blowing the rear main seal. This will only occur at high mileages.
*These problems strangely normally appear at a similar time to the automatic needing an overhaul (740 owners see below)- repair at that time if its not too bad.

'86ish Volvo 740 Automatic cars:
These cars have a water cooled transmission cooler, and it is possible for older versions, and especially cars that have not had the correct coolant ratio, to develop pinhole leaks in the trans fluid element, allowing water to enter the transmission. Should this happen do not attempt rebuilding the trans, junk it, buy one from a low km wrecker, as rebuilding this box and making it function correctly appears to border on a black art.

General OHC Volvo four issues:
Be vigilant on cambelts. Often multi owner cars will have been neglected in this regard- Volvo parts aren't cheap, neither is servicing at volvo dealers. When it goes, it will go in a big way.

Certain B230 cylinder heads are cast thinner in the water galleries, and do not take kindly to extra boost. Especially not after being skimmed, as they can crack or become porous.

I will have missed many, many things Forg would be a far better authority, these are just what I observed over my family's 12 or so 240/740 volvos.

cheers,
floody

[Datman]

WRX - EJ20T

Oil surge problems when being used in racing applications, which have lead to catastrophic engine failures (legs out of bed!). Also seems to apply to the 2.5L engine also (from the liberty I think)

Probably not a concern for street guys, but may be something to consider if your street ride doubles as a weekend racer.

Two guys who race in IPRA have had the some problems, and short of dry sumping (which is a difficult/expensive setup on this engine), there doesn't seem to be any other fix.

[poid]

Honda B20A from '88-'91 Preludes

Weak cam belt, has a tendency to snap after 80,000km or so. Hence change the thing on time and dont let one run for any more than 80,000km.

Cam belt is a weakness on other Honda engines but not to the extent as on the Preludes.

Also seals should be checked to make sure they arent leaking as these engines are getting on and are often thrashed

[Simon-AE86]

4age - RWD

The early 4ages with the distributor sometimes (read most of the time) leak oil out of the dizzy seal and onto the headers at high rpm.

other oil related prob with most 4ages seems to be poor sealing of the rocker covers so you end up with a small pool of oil in each plug hole.

[tommy_t]

EVERY COMMODORE

FOR: pretty much every commodore ever made

not exactly a problem with engine as such... but i foudn a pretty useful site for holdens, for those common shity problems you might be able to fix yourself, if you new how... its got everything listed by year and model, ie VS commodore 1996 - 1998 , and then all the common problems, just hope it helps some of you blokes

dont pass this by if you are having a niggling problem, cos this site has a huuuuge list of problems for commodores, you'd almost think holden made crap cars :p

http://www.justcommodores.com/modules.php?name=Faults

cheers
tom

[TRAV-KE55]

B6 mazda, laser mx5 ect.
As said above, poor design, crank doesnt protrute through crank pully, most people over tighten belts (alt,a/c, power steer) and break the nose of thwe crank off, solution, leave belts on the looser side!

[TRAV-KE55]

Toyota 3S series engines

The biggest fault with the 3S camry engine isnt in fact with the engine but with the owners, lack of maintinence on the cooling system is almost always there failure, replace all coolint hoses, water pump, radiater service, new thermostat ect before 200kms and youll almost for certain have many more years of happy toyota motoring!

[Maadmike]

MITSUBISHI MAGNA 2.6L EFI

Problem:

Car randomly cuts out/ idle's rough/ Generally runs shit.

Fix:

Obviously check normal ignition problems like ECU connectors/spark plugs/ leads etc. But the regular problem if it isnt that is the plug on top of the distributor. Take the rubber cover off it and check that the wires are in good condition and solidered on properly. If not get them soldered back on. Seen this a few times on earlier model EFI magnas

[DaiOni]

In addition to maadmike's info: possibly the most common cause of rough idle on the tm-tp series 2.6 astron (efi and carby version) is worn engine mounts (when, not if).

other common/known engine faults in the first generation magna 2.6 include:

* head gasket implosion galore - sometimes obvious symptoms, sometimes spontaneous self-destruction

* cracked blocks

* half-moon seal failure

* chronic oil retaining issues (could write a book on this alone)

there's more, but that's all that is coming to me now (I'm trying hard to forget...)

[F|sh]

G180 gemnini engines

I have found with my engine that when you bore them 120 thou its leads to over heating. It is a good idea to install a decent radiatopr and a big thermo and run decent oil eg penrite or pennzoil. mine before using penrite would hit 120 degrees c while idling, this is with a thermo and a 3 row radiator!! but would cool down while driving around.

[rodhog]

On mazda 626 GC-GD that late 83-87 88-91 (FORD TX-5 & Telsatar versions )
Engines have no major failure, but head warps easy if over heated. Thermostat casues most problems. Engines take punsihment. but comonly both 8 valve and 12 valve leak oil from cam cover.

4speed Auto box on both turbo and non turbo lack strong diff.
Watch for hard starts, it's a NO NO, more so on NON-turbo as it constantly skips front tyres in dry causeing Spyders inside diff to break and cause expensive rebuild. Turbo -Auto never stall its' the stall converters slowness that helsp keep diff in one peice.

This Goes for GV station wagon of same, Diff's in this model were said to be stronger but is questionable. I have broken 2 inside the 4 speed on a stock as a rock car. easy starts and light wet weather foot will save the thousand $$$ put out for rebuilds.

For GE 626 V6 and Mx-6 watch models before 95 for Dizzy failure, mostly fixed by now. Newer model had over come this problem.

[japtaxi]

On early R32 RB26DETT

oil pump drive part on the crank can be damaged/worn out as it only reach half into the oil pump, the problem can be prevented by install an oil pump drive collar.

[2JZR31]

RB25DE/DET and maybe other RB engines that share the same CAS.

Loud grinding and dull rattling noise from the front of the engine. A bearing or bush inside the cas is to blame. The front ball bearing on the offending CAS seems OK but metal filings are coming out from behind the optical disc. Its almost impossible to get apart.

The O ring that sits on the shaft of the CAS disintegrates causing undue play which in turn puts more stress on the bearing. Thats my theory anyway, because when we pulled it out, it fell apart just by looking at it.

Fix is a new CAS or new bearing/bush if you can get the bloody thing apart. I'm not sure if its a bearing or bush yet because It won't come apart.

[RB30DEVL]

engine faults

Now to have a go at the RB30 in the VL & Skylines,when age and high mileage gets to them their injectors have a bad problem with leakage as mine does,this results in possible bad driveability and poor fuel economy as my VL has a the moment.
Their CAS units fail but I have never had it happen to me,their AFM's I have found are fragile as I have been through 2 of them.
They have a head cracking problem but that has never happened to me.
Their exhaust manifold studs also become brittle and break at kigh kms in perticular.
I have otherwise found the RB30 to be an honest reliable engine but mine is getting a bit tired at 465,000 kms and seems to have lost a lot of its go and blows a little smoke,also the injectors which I have tried hunting around for with no luck as I have always bought a dud set have leaked for the past year which is why I will be fitting an RB30DE motor soon.