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    Davies Craig EWP... what do I need to know?

    Gents,

    I took advantage of the Supercrap boxing day sale, and bought a Davies Craig EWP150 (it was $100).
    Its going on a Toyota 3SGTE (GT4 Celica). The good GrpA water pumps for these are becoming quite rare, so I figured it would be a good opportunity to modernise.
    I'm going to make my own CAN bus speed controller for it (will control the thermo fan too).


    It would be nice to ditch the thermostat, but I gather if i do so, my cabin heater will basically become useless?
    Any other way to work around this?

    Mounting orientation, soft/hard mounting, etc?

    Is there anything I should know?

    Thanks fellas
    Last edited by MWP; 17-01-20, 04:34 PM.

    #2
    Pretty sure you are meant to ditch the thermostat when you install these anyway. You can purchase an additional booster pump for the heater.

    Comment


      #3
      Yeah, I had one on my mid engined v8 for years. Easier than getting mech water pump belt drives sorted out right behind your seat.

      Worked well, but only after I took out thermostat. Didn't like flow restriction. Also, the DC pump controller couldn't maintain constant temperature, like a thermostat could.

      I had no heater to consider... Whole car was a heater!

      But worth shot. No need to mount, hoses hold it in place. Firstly, take out thermostat and set it full speed and go drive it. See what happens. If all ok (too cold) Then start worrying about pump speed control for temperature regulation.

      Comment


        #4
        Id just knock the centre from the T-Stat rather than remove altogether, you still need a restriction in the engine.

        Comment


          #5
          I have an EWP80 in one of the race cars (not run yet) and I've knocked the centre out of the thermostat.
          Lots of minis & mokes including a G13b powered Sports Sedan, a couple of Swift Gtis, a Goggomobil, Porsche 928S, Polo Gti, BMW 540i, a WRX and a few others.

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks fellas.
            No Tstat it is.

            I guess setting up a small secondary pump for the cabin heater would be easy enough too.
            Maybe one of these:https://daviescraig.com.au/product/e...-pump-12v-9002

            Originally posted by chartreusehj View Post
            you still need a restriction in the engine.
            Why?
            Last edited by MWP; 17-01-20, 11:12 PM.

            Comment


              #7
              Do they publish a performance curve for these pumps? If so let’s have a crack at a system resistance curve and work it from there.
              2017 Ford Ranger XLT (Jeep Wrangler recovery vehicle)
              2007 KTM 250 SX

              Originally posted by Monza
              I've never considered myself the type of guy to eat arse but I am currently reviewing that policy

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Greg Rust View Post
                Do they publish a performance curve for these pumps? If so let’s have a crack at a system resistance curve and work it from there.
                Hmm, you mean system pressure resistance vs flow?

                There is one on pg26:
                http://daviescraig.com.au/media/1193...6SmallFile.pdf

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks. Interesting they named the pumps after max flow rate. 130LPM @ 0 psi. I seriously doubt you’d ever achieve that in a closed loop cooling system as there is restriction to flow via rad, hoses and engine. I reckon 1.5- 2psi would be a close guess to system resistance.

                  they also have the VSD option so if you ran with that then you’d probably not need any thermostat in there.

                  if you put a pressure gauge in the system just before the thermostat then you could work back to the pump curve and get your flow rate.
                  2017 Ford Ranger XLT (Jeep Wrangler recovery vehicle)
                  2007 KTM 250 SX

                  Originally posted by Monza
                  I've never considered myself the type of guy to eat arse but I am currently reviewing that policy

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Is knowing the flow rate that important?
                    I guess it may help with modeling an open-loop pump speed VS temperature map, but not if I use a closed-loop/PID control system.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Just fitted mine and will test Friday. I bought the dash controller also which if it works well should be a good thing. Basically set target temp and it controls pump speed and fans to maintain. Stays running when back in pits until 10 degrees under target temp. Means I can shut the car off and it'll keep cooling.
                      Attached Files

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Removing the thermostat increases the likelihood of hotspot boil in your head as the pressure in the hottest part of the system is reduced. I set one up with a mate with gutted pump/thermo housing, on his rx7, slow warm up and in genuine cold weather at fast cruise just convection can keep temps well below usual running temp. Great for response/low rpm torque but not for emissions if you care for it.

                        Best use case is to pretty well maintain thermo/warm up bypass for faster engine warmup with less risk of shock/uneven temp rise and maintain dynamic pressure in the head. Plenty of people running as gutted though.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Slides View Post
                          Removing the thermostat increases the likelihood of hotspot boil in your head as the pressure in the hottest part of the system is reduced.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Pressure aside, all I know is that I needed to remove thermostat in my application to get it to flow enough to keep an angry V8 cool.

                            Try with and without thermostat in your application and see what works. If it works with thermostat, best of both worlds. If not, remove and try again. Easy!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              A few PSI can push you enough along a temp/vapour pressure curve to stop runaway on a shit head. Might not mean anything on most motors.

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