Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Race coolant - Running a corrosion Inhibitor + water (no glycols) thoughts?

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Race coolant - Running a corrosion Inhibitor + water (no glycols) thoughts?

    Hi All, so need to do a coolant flush in the skyline (750hp RB26, cast block, alloy head, alloy radiator, 127kPa radiator cap, so my boiling point of straight water would be 124 degC.

    I live in brisbane QLD and it NEVER gets below 0 degrees C here. not planning to do any long drives to mt hotham in it so have no requirement for antifreeze, and it appears coolant only adds a few degrees to the boiling point once pressure is factored in (129 deg C for tectalloy) unless coolant boiling points are quoted at ambient temp?

    came accross the Penrite 10 tenths race coolant, which is just a corrosion inhibitor and a surfactant (like water wetter). running water instead of glycol makes a lot of sense to me due to specific heat capacity increase, and non-slippery coolant on the track is a bonus.

    any thoughts? makes sense to me.
    Last edited by burn is weird; 22-01-20, 02:54 PM.

    Oo___oO


    #2
    Yep, you're on the money. I've wondered how much difference there is between that and Redline Water Wetter. Have seen plenty of race cars using either.

    Comment


      #3
      In my old race car and my old NA6 MX% that was a road car with the odd track day I used the Penrite 10/10ths no issues at all.

      I chose the Penrite as it was easier to get and for what it was cheap.

      I know plenty of people who have used the Redline water wetter no issue as well.

      IMO I would use whatever is the easiest to get for you.

      Comment


        #4
        Yep, don't run glycol coolants in race cars for all the reasons you've stated. I ran a no glycol coolant (think is was Nulon?) for many years in previous track/weekender.

        Comment


          #5
          I have 10/10ths in my car, can't see any difference in coolant temps shown on the gauge but it will be a while before I see the results against corrosion. No sooking at the track if I spill some coolant either.

          Comment


            #6
            Well that settles it, will give it a good flush with a bottle of rad flush and a hose and fill er up with the penrite juice and some demin.

            It's amusing the people on the internet running it in road cars giving it glowing reviews for its cooling ability. Well yea, I'd expect 50/50 glycol to work fine too just giving it a 5 second squirt off the lights or your cooling system is shit. The same people putting group 5 PAO ester Motul race oil in their road car I guess.

            5 laps of QR in summer at 450-500kw is a different test altogether and that's the main use case for why I want to go down this path.
            Last edited by burn is weird; 22-01-20, 09:06 PM.

            Oo___oO

            Comment


              #7
              we're running a fairly weak mix of redline water wetter in a 300kw atw 1.8L 2zzge which used to get hot and push coolant at lakeside. One of the nice things compared to the Toyota LLC mix it used to run is the waterpump doesn't seem to cavitate as much anymore at sustained high rpm. The cooling system on it is a bit of a bitch to burp and it will get hot pretty quickly if there's any air pockets. It's easier to burp with the redline mix and the cooling system overall does seem to be more efficient from the logs at the track. Still gets warmer than I'd like at QR on a hot day so some changes are underway in the off season: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IkAOT6coa9c
              Last edited by jasonp1977; 22-01-20, 10:28 PM.

              Comment


                #8
                I've run Penrite 10 tenths race coolant since my last engine rebuild (~6yrs).
                Pulled the head off last month, all looks good. No signs of corrosion anywhere.
                Thumbs up.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Ran Redline WW with tap water in alloy headed Clevo with good results.
                  2017 Ford Ranger XLT (Jeep Wrangler recovery vehicle)
                  2007 KTM 250 SX

                  Originally posted by Monza
                  I've never considered myself the type of guy to eat arse but I am currently reviewing that policy

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Does the redline water wetter have corrosion inhibitors?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by jasonp1977 View Post
                      we're running a fairly weak mix of redline water wetter in a 300kw atw 1.8L 2zzge which used to get hot and push coolant at lakeside. One of the nice things compared to the Toyota LLC mix it used to run is the waterpump doesn't seem to cavitate as much anymore at sustained high rpm. The cooling system on it is a bit of a bitch to burp and it will get hot pretty quickly if there's any air pockets. It's easier to burp with the redline mix and the cooling system overall does seem to be more efficient from the logs at the track. Still gets warmer than I'd like at QR on a hot day so some changes are underway in the off season: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IkAOT6coa9c
                      Damn, what I'm seeing (apart from water temps touching 100 deg (not that hot for mine), is 300 kPa (abs) boost pressure! I assume from the sound of it you are running a centrifugal supercharger setup of some sort? Obviously some lower comp pistons etc. Nice laps, but QR layout is hopeless!

                      Edit - checked your other video - Rotrex supercharger. Got it. Great!
                      Last edited by 200MPH; 23-01-20, 08:11 AM.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        100 is fine. I was starting to push 115+ in mine. Oil temps were around 130 before adding a 25 row cooler. And an axillary coolant breather tank (which helped a LOT by constantly bleeding the coolant system.

                        Localised boiling a bit of a concern.
                        Last edited by burn is weird; 23-01-20, 11:03 AM.

                        Oo___oO

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by 200MPH View Post

                          Damn, what I'm seeing (apart from water temps touching 100 deg (not that hot for mine), is 300 kPa (abs) boost pressure! I assume from the sound of it you are running a centrifugal supercharger setup of some sort? Obviously some lower comp pistons etc. Nice laps, but QR layout is hopeless!

                          Edit - checked your other video - Rotrex supercharger. Got it. Great!
                          yes, have just swapped in a C38-91 to try and get a bit more efficiency in terms of charge temp, increasing from 25-30psi on the previous C38 came along with a 20-30deg increase in intake temp post intercooler. Have only done two events at QR, that car spends most of it's life at Lakeside: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=itci2BsvbiI
                          Last edited by jasonp1977; 23-01-20, 10:51 AM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            The Motul guy once told me in the LeMans world, most of their guys were using straight MoCool. You can dilute it with, but they would just run it straight.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Straight additive? Motul recommend 5% mixed with demin. And at 35 bucks for 500ml, I'd hope so!

                              Oo___oO

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X