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Anyone speak Toyota? 2ZZ-GE ECU / Fuel Pump Shenanigans

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    Anyone speak Toyota? 2ZZ-GE ECU / Fuel Pump Shenanigans

    Howdy gurus,

    My latest adventure is a '99 2ZZ-GE 6M Celica. It’s decided not to start for me which is particularly inconsiderate. The ECU is not running the fuel pump. Cranks and has spark.

    The fuel pump does run briefly at key off but not when cranking/ignition.

    EFI fuses have power and the EFI relay activates with ignition.

    The COpen relay has power to it, but doesn’t activate. Bridging the outputs will run the fuel pump, but car will still not start. (I presume that whatever reason the ECU is preventing the COpen relay from closing is also not running the fuel injectors).

    I thought about crank angle sensor, but given it has spark, so I assume the CAS is ok.

    I have a spare ECU so swapped that, made no difference. There is no break in the wiring between the ECU and the COpen relay.

    Does anyone know what inputs the ECU uses to turn on the fuel system? I’d have expected it to use the crank sensor, but I’m new to Toyotas and maybe there is something I'm missing. Is the cam sensor used for fuel and crank for ignition or something like that? Or is there something obvious I've missed?

    Thanks in advance!

    #2
    is your security/immobiliser working?

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by kedderz View Post
      is your security/immobiliser working?
      Interesting thought. It has been disabled. Edit: No it hasn't.
      Last edited by 36; 21-09-20, 05:38 PM.

      Comment


        #4
        Hook up techstream and see what's going on. If you've bridged the fuel pump and it doesn't run, I'd say it's immobilised. Did you swap in a Japanese market ECU or a US market ECU?

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by jasonp1977 View Post
          Hook up techstream and see what's going on. If you've bridged the fuel pump and it doesn't run, I'd say it's immobilised. Did you swap in a Japanese market ECU or a US market ECU?
          Thanks kedderz & jasonp1977. I don't know the history of the spare ECU, but all the part numbers on the sticker match another one for sale on gumtree so I think its safe to assume its from an Au car.

          Immobiliser - the red light flashes when the key is removed and goes out when the key is inserted, so I assume that's all normal. The battery in the key is flat, so I'll change that. I'm guessing that only does central locking?

          Techstream - something to investigate. I'll get onto that thanks.

          Comment


            #6
            the battery in the key has nothing to do with the immobilizer, the chip in the key body operates independently of the battery. Any other AU ECU wont just plug in and work without the immobilizer being re-coded.

            If you've got spark then your crank and cam sensors are operating correctly. Have you checked for injector pulse with a noid light?

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by jasonp1977 View Post
              Any other AU ECU wont just plug in and work without the immobilizer being re-coded.

              If you've got spark then your crank and cam sensors are operating correctly. Have you checked for injector pulse with a noid light?
              Re-coding the immobilizer is a good tip - I'm going to have to learn how to do that else there isn't a lot of point keeping an ECU it in the spares box.

              Injector pulse with noid light? No I haven't. Looks like I've just found my next tool to buy. Thanks.

              Comment


                #8
                This is the manual method to reset the ECU to a virgin state ready to accept a new key:
                Toyota Corolla 2004 5 immobilizer reset file and add key - YouTube

                Comment


                  #9
                  Legend, thanks! I'll do that in case I ever have an ECU fail.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by jasonp1977 View Post
                    If you've got spark then your crank and cam sensors are operating correctly. Have you checked for injector pulse with a noid light?

                    In absence of a noid light, I went the old fashioned bulb method. No pulse. Injector does have voltage, so I guess that means the ECU is not switching the earth.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      After waiting 3 weeks for a Techstream cable to arrive, and several hours making it work on a 64 bit PC, I finally have some codes.

                      P0100 Air Flow Meter Circuit
                      P0135 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
                      P1656 OCV Circuit (Bank 1)
                      P1690 OCV for VVTL Circuit (Bank 1)

                      I remember noticing the wiring on the OCV was pretty manky, so am suspicious of that.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        if there is no injector pulse and no fuel pump then id start with the immob. is it a mathced key to the ecu? an ocv wont cause a non start. infact none of those codes will.

                        im sure immob codes are logged via the body module on these....
                        I'M NOT A HOOKER BUT 20 BUCKS IS 20 BUCKS...

                        I am junkie for swedish high quality shitboxes. my latest fix is this...

                        robslothyoung - follow me on insta.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Sloth View Post
                          if there is no injector pulse and no fuel pump then id start with the immob. is it a mathced key to the ecu? an ocv wont cause a non start. infact none of those codes will.

                          im sure immob codes are logged via the body module on these....
                          Thanks for the info.

                          Immobiliser seems to be a likely suspect. There wasn't any codes on the body module, but I'll run it again this arvo just to double check. First time using tech stream so I may have mucked something up.

                          Key to ECU - yes. The immobiliser light goes out when the key is inserted in the ignition barrel. I've traced the wiring from the immobiliser to the ECU to check for breaks, all seem ok.

                          I drove it out of the garage, washed it, drove it back in and it hasn't started since. The key sat in the ignition barrell the whole time. Battery was disconnected, which is what I normally do with it.

                          Short of buying a new amplifier (or key and then reprogramming ecu), is there any other way to test the immobiliser theory?

                          Edit: better words.
                          Last edited by 36; 14-10-20, 03:16 PM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Another scan confirmed no immobiliser code, but P0505 Idle Control System Malfunction popped up.

                            Key ring transponder thingy ordered, will see what that does.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Key transponder didn't make a difference. Setting fire to it becoming an increasingly more appealing option.

                              Comment

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