No spark on electronic ignition setup

[kalium]

Trying to start the L28 with electronic ignition, but im not getting any spark from the coil. There is power going through the primary circuit (i.e on the negative and positive coil terminals), but no spark coming out of the coil. I am not familiar with electronic ignitions (reluctor and stator magnetic type), so am not really sure how to test the distributor. Should I be looking elsewhere other than the distributor ?

Thanks
Ray

[Zac]

Have you just fitted this up or has it been on all along? Trying to work out whether you have wired it incorrectly or something has failed.

[kalium]

Yeah I have just fitted it all up. Everything else seems in order. Power seems to be going where it should on the ECU side of things. Im actually using the original wiring for the power to the coil (i.e not running it from a relay from the ECU). And am putting the whole 12V into it, as opposed to the 6v on the old system.

EIDT: I bought htis whole engine as a package. I have had to replace a lot that was on it originally(head,block,timing gear so far...). So I would not be completely suprised if it did turn out to be the distributor.

[Zac]

You have to have one wire from the dizzy going to the -ve side of the coil too.

[kalium]

Yep, the ignition module has two wires going to it, one from the - and one from the +....thats std issue.

[Zac]

are they pink and green?

[kalium]

Nope, B/w, and blue. The wiring from the coil to the distributor is either L28E/L24E..havent been able to accurately determine which.

[Zac]

'thehelix' should know this one.

[thehelix112]

I'm terrible with electronical stuffs but I did write down the colours and bits from when my L28 was running. I was using an electromotive electronic distributer kit though, in any case the colour of wires from the dizzy isn't too important (if it doesn't work, change them around then try)

I also didn't use an ignition module. My setup was as follows:

Dizzy red -> coil +ve
Dizzy black -> coil -ve

Loom black+white -> coil +ve
Loom grey -> coil -ve
Loom black -> coil -ve

Dunno if thats of any help.

Dave

[kalium]

I have a complete LHD 260z wiring diagram and several 280zx and R30 wiring diagrams, so am not so much worried about the colors of wires, just the internal workings of an ignition module and electronic distributor to determine what could have gone wrong with them.

I have since been reading that as the reluctor points move out of line from the stator pickups it causes an voltage change which is then changed again once they line up. akin to the points moving up and down on the lobe. My reluctor was way outta whack and I actually think that the pickups on the stator may have worn down through physical contact or something, as I just cant adjust the thing properly.

[lambs]

Is this a stock L24E/L28E distributor ??

[kalium]

yep, sure is

[lambs]

There are a few no known problems with those dizzies:

- igniter module is prone to failure from heat due to being mounted on the body. Fortunately any module from a reluctor setup will work, I even used a Honda one for awhile.

- the advance mechanism is craaaap. The rotating plate inside the dist body is supported by three tiny ball bearings contained in a plastic cage which conveniently disintegrates with heat/age. Once that happens the plate wanders around all over the place and so does timing.

- vac advance can failures (possibly not a big deal).

- general shaft wear, etc causes ign timing problems.

I think I turfed most of the info I had on wiring, etc for these things, but I'll have a look.

[kalium]

There are a few no known problems with those dizzies:

- igniter module is prone to failure from heat due to being mounted on the body. Fortunately any module from a reluctor setup will work, I even used a Honda one for awhile.

So this isnt all that rare then? Seeing as the Ignition Module is where the voltage is "created" , if mine was toast it would have the symptoms I am experiencing. It would be good if I could actually test it though so I could confidently go out and buy another one and know that it will fix the problem. I guess that may not be possible though.

[lambs]

So this isnt all that rare then? Seeing as the Ignition Module is where the voltage is "created" , if mine was toast it would have the syptoms I am experiencing. It would be good if I could actually test it though so I could confidently go out and buy another one and know that it will fix the problem. I guess that may not be possible though.

No...it's a known problem area. have a look here:

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...ibutorrebuild/

and here for wiring info (scroll down):

http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html