Accusump

[Nero]

I disagree with some of the thought expressed above. This has its own trigger and is not connected in anyway to the oil light. It is intended as a pre oiler as noted but is also intended to address the issues of starvation of the pump (I would agree that the longterm fix is a better sump) when other fixes are not possible or too expensive e.g. short-track bitumen events where dry sumps are illegal. The flow from the 3 qt model will provide the pressure that it is stored at and the triggering pressure is set by the installer. Thus it can trigger at 30-20-10PSI. Personally I would run one in addition to a well baffled sump. Think of it as more an added 3-4 seconds to see the big low oil pressure warning light!
BTW the SAE state that 70% of engine wear occurs at startup they are naturally good for that

[Guido]

Thanks for all your responses.

Neil, the reason for a 1qt is due to very limited space. Not even sure where I could fit a 1qt.

In my case I have a larger sump with an extra wing that is baffled. There is an external filter and Serck cooler with -10 lines. I have also replaced the standard 10psi light with a larger LED light that is triggered by a Hobbs switch at 30psi. My thinking is that by the time it dips under 10psi at 7000+rpm around a long sweeper the damage would have already been done.

I am looking at an accumulator for extra insurance and the pre-oiling.

[Nero]

I would suggest that you try and find the space for the 2-3qt as the cost is not that much more and the benefit is worth it. It does not have to be in the engine bay.

[Guido]

Hmmm, it is still a street car so I would not think it is legal having pressurised oil in the cabin. Also would not like to make the lines too long so that rules out the boot.

There might be some room nex to the radiator on the passenger side.

[Nero]

next to the oil filter?

[Jim]

what pressure do they supply oil at? I'm under the impression it's not much more than enough to trip the oil pressure sender.

[BigMuz]

It depends Secoh- if you make an accumulator sprung hard enough to reinject oil at 50 psi, it takes 50 psi to fill it- if you monitor the pressure in the reservoir and the amount of oil you have there, and squirt it back in when the oil pressure drops below say 20 that would be good, if you just have an accumulator then it will only hold a tiny bit of oil at lower pressures if you spring it hard.

There are pre oilers that fill to the brim when oil pressure is up, then you open a valve or solenoid when you are cranking the engine from cold. Some control system would be needed to use an accumulator to save your ewngine from a momentary oil pressure loss.

Muz

[Nero]

the one I have seen on a rally car stored pressure at 45psi. Naturally enough with a compression spring as its source of force the pressure would drop as the piston moved down the bore of the accusump. I have been told that you can mod the stored pressure as muz noted. I will find out more on the control valves.

[TRAV-KE55]

Why use springs and pistons???
Use air pressure and have an acumilator with enough volume, Air is very elastic and will also gain a bit of pressure as the temp rises.
Neil the reason why it turns the light out is because they are hooked into the pressure side of the pump/galleries etc, thus when it has delivered enough oil it also has the ability to turn the oil light out with its stored pressure.
The way we have one set up is simple, it has a solenoid hooked to ignition power, naturally when you turn the ignition off the solenoid closes and locks in the engine oil pressure at the presice time (air being the spring). With the ignition turned ON the solenoid is open alowing the stored pressure (oil) to flow out from the air pressure in the acumilator being greater than that of zero pressure and into the oil galleries. This solenoid stayes open while the car is running always being kept at engine oil pressure, thus when you have a rapid decline in oil pressure its stored pressure is released back into the oil galleries untill it runs out of pressure. This is a simple system with not moving parts other than a solenoild! Also with a valve on top you can use shop air to pressureise if the car has been sitting for some time and air has leaked out. (although if the fabrication is good and the valve seals perfect there is no leaks).
Like i said it is a band aid for oil surge, wont fix a problem but will short term help.
As i always say "fix the cause not the problem" ecspecially with oil surge.
Cheers
Trav

[Nero]

The accusump is air pressure, the spring mod is in addition to air to ensure reliability in a rally car, slow air bleed will often not be noted if the gauge is hard to read. The air pressure will have the same compromises re force.
Re oil light, fair enough a better explanation.
Re oil fix, it always depends on the rules for the class does it not. In some classes this is a viable solution, others just another part on the car.

[Guido]

Neil, in theory next to the filter would be the easiest however... If it goes from oil pump to oil filter to oil cooler to accusump and back to the engine it can not be mounted there.
As you know with the twin cams the oil exits on the LHS, so mine travels all the way to the RHS for the filter (only place I could really have it), then through the radiator support to the cooler then back to the motor. The only place I could see it fitting is on the LHS of the radiator. And this area is already really tight.

[Nero]

I understand the problem. My filter is not in the engine bay, but is in the rad ducting! Maybe it will not fit?

[Guido]

Starting to think it will fit on the LHS of the radiator. I have decided the catch can will be on the RHS of it. Might be a little tight once the fittings and -10 lines are on there though.

On a different topic, picked it up from bring tuned properly. Fark it goes for an atmo four, 150RWHP (not on shoot out) @ 7000RPM. Torque curve is remarkably good for a highly tuned atmo four too. Any one know how to work out torque from tractive effort??

[Nero]

yes thay can surprise and of course it feels more due to the rest of the car! By that I mean that the same speeds in a new car feel dull in comparison to my old one.