VS Commode cutting out ...

[Captiva Fan]

Ah, so I did actually understand you!
I really don't want to mess with them, they're quite tight as it is.
Might have to price one of them DFI thingies ...

[Captiva Fan]

I really don't want to mess with them, they're quite tight as it is.

However, in desparation, I did anyway; gotta be cheaper'n buying new modules at random.
Lessee how she goes now ...

[Rollin]

LOL.

if you have any friends with commos you could always swap parts, and if your car runs fine/their car dies rendomly then you have found the problem...

[Captiva Fan]

I wouldn't even consider fraternising with people who have VS Commodores ...
:D

Annoying stop & refuse-to-restart yesterday; with a bootfull of groceries no less. By the time my GF had called & asked me to go & pick her up, the car decided to start again; but it's getting a wee bit dangerous. Think I'll see if the local Holden dealer has any of those modules in stock, and whether they're expensive. It's really annoying, the car's been good apart from this (& I'd felt we'd saved a fair bit of money c/f with buying something new, while still being in something relatively safe & reliable).

*edit*
Yipe!! $370!!
Explete that ... anyone know if these parts are 100% the same as a GM3800-II thing (for, say, a V6 Cutlass) bought over the 'net from the USA & which, if the Volvo experience repeats itself, probably costs $80 shipped?

[guidos]

i think the gm ones are the same but i dont know if they have the same mounts on them due to the fwd setup over there.

you can get aftermarket bosch ones too and i think they are significantly cheaper (i say i think because when i did it it was for a S1 VN which while having the same plug, is a different module)

[Rollin]

i will get a price on a dfi module for you on wed when i go back to work if you like.

i think they are just nasty anyway though.

maybe worth booking it in to a dealer? prob cost a mint but.

good call re: not fraternising with commodore drivers :D

[Rollin]

i can get you a new, genuine, legally obtained DFi module for 190 bucks+ postage if you are interested, let me know...

[Captiva Fan]

Hmm, I will definitely consider the offer!
The more I think about it, the less I believe the dealer is going to be able to do any more than the "neighbourhood mechanic" I took the car to months ago. So long as they've got the diagnostic gear to plug the car into, it's much the same deal (except the dealer has more apprentices) ... I thought that if the problem were software there might be an upgrade available & the dealer'd have it, but there doesn't seem to be one.

[Captiva Fan]

I was going to take up your offer, Rollin, except that it's been behaving itself a lot lately.
I didn't realise that after I filled it up with Optimax a coupla times in a row to see if that flushed-out the fuel-system or some-such, my girlfriend has been putting 98-octane in it at every fill-up. The stall only occurs when the L/100km reading drops right down low; so if we put only ULP in the car, it [almost] never stalls ... L/100km is always higher 'cos the fuel isn't as good. I don't know if one is a symptom of another, or both are a symptom of the same "3rd thing".

Odd ... anyone got any further suggestions or thoughts?

[Captiva Fan]

*bump*
[because I feel like it]
Misbehaving a lot this morning; so got the shits, ran out to the ex-Petroject to get a DFi module for not a lot more than the abovequoted $190 ... and fitted it after outfitting my tool-kit with a 7/32 socket (stupid half-imperial half-metric Commodes!). We'll see how that goes ...

[gilly]

i had a similar problem in my lancer. Turns out the wiring in the back of the ignition column where the connector plug joins the loom to the ignition had all burnt out and was pretty buggered.

[Captiva Fan]

Update (as if anyone cares)
[No, not "up date" ... stop that Dude Where's My Car style giggling]
Holden dealer spent 3 days attempting to reproduce while having 'the gear' plugged in, including giving the car to the head mechanic who lives a 70km-each-way commute. Apparently the problem can be diagnosed if it happens while the computer's attached. Anyway, the closest they could get was a cut-out which was a near stall; too fast to get any info out. Given the symptoms & what I've already replaced, they replaced the CAS & the workshop manager reckons he's 90% confident that this'll fix the problem.
*fingers crossed harder*
Might need to take a trip down to the Southern Highlands or some-such this evening ...

[Captiva Fan]

*bump*
Two weeks and counting ... CAS FTW!!

[HoonBoy]

Draggin up the old trhead... anyone know how to replace the CAS? My dad's VR did the "stall and now only starts when it wants to" thing and I want to replace the CAS first as it is a third of the price of the fuel pump!

[HoonBoy]

I found this in google:

yep.take out your thermo fan assembly,gives a bit more work space,4 bolts.remove fan belt.undoing the bolt that holds balancer on is a bit tricky.i used a really good rattle gun but some of the boys here remove the fuel pump fuse and use a long bar inside a piece of pipe resting on chassis rail and crank engine slightly to undo bolt.then use a big puller to carefully remove the balancer.be carefull not to damage the chopper blades inside balancer and check that the outer puller on balancer hasnt been seperated from rubber.then its just a matter of undoing old cas fitting new one and reversing the procedure.just make sure that the chopper blades dont hit the cas by rotating engine by hand.but if chopper blades havent been bent then this really shouldnt happen.

Ignoring the dodgy method of removing the harmonic balancer, does it soudn correct? Is there any need to adjust it?