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Brake/clutch pedal set specifications with brembos.

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    #31
    Originally posted by MAZMAN View Post
    Yeah i do a little nab at the end of the straight to wash off some speed (i was doing 252.8kmh on the straight that day) and i felt the brakes were good and after taking the t1 corner at a average 180kmh coming to turn2 where i usually brake at the 100m mark, there were no brakes!.

    I would also assume they were bleed properly but who knows if there was air trapped that i couldnt get rid of? But again the pedal felt great...

    Yes 1 piece isf rotors made by dba4000.

    The master retracting is an interesting one, but hard to diagnose now when its fully operational at the moment.

    Knock off i would assume pumping up would bring the pressure up tho? As the pistons fill with fluid again?
    Thanks for the ideas.
    Based on the solid rotors and having just done a quick lap, I'm thinking pad knockoff may well be the culprit. It's made worse by a bigger diameter rotor. Yes pumping will push the pistons back into position, you may have only been one more pump away from getting the pedal back before you ran out of track.

    If this is the problem, fully floating rotors will resolve it. You might get away with just doing the fronts.

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      #32
      Consider, as a stop gap, installing anti-knockback springs in the pistons.
      "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

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        #33
        Ok cool. Any info or what to look for? Never seen or heard of this so what do i get, have any links that would suit mine?
        Cheers.
        93 tt supra,black 6 speed
        --------------------------------
        SINGLE

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by MAZMAN View Post
          Ok cool. Any info or what to look for? Never seen or heard of this so what do i get, have any links that would suit mine?
          Cheers.
          Floating rotors as the name implies are not fixed to the hat. When you pick them up, the hat should have noticeable movement relative to the rotor.

          Wilwood have a decent range

          Also found this mob, they look like the real thing:

          http://www.raceproducts.net/floating...kit/index.html

          What you want to avoid is the two piece versions which look very similar, with an iron rotor and an aluminium hat, that bolt together and become a solid unit. Proper floating units use a pin arrangement that lets the rotor move laterally relative to the hat, and so when the suspension flexes in a corner, the rotor can't push back against the pistons.

          BTW floating rotors are used on karts, so if you know anyone who has one, go check it out, it will help you understand how it works in a car application.

          Comment


            #35
            Not a huge selection for JZA80, but talk to www.brypar.com and get some made,

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              #36
              Sorry sprinkles, i meant about the anti knockback springs... never knew about them.
              Did a bit of a search and now i know better, so now thinking it would be a cheaper way of trying?

              The floating rotors yeah i know about but only 2 choices i know of that do isf size rotors, racing brakes wich im not sure if they are full floating, similar to dba5000 series i think but they do mention floating design!

              http://www.shopfigs.com/v3/2psrtr-ISF-FRONT

              And rr racing, wich states 2 piece floating...but cant really tell!
              https://www.racingready.com.au/produ...-2-piece-rotor

              Also trying to decide if i should go castrol srf or endless rf650 brake fluid to improve wet boiling points?
              93 tt supra,black 6 speed
              --------------------------------
              SINGLE

              Comment


                #37
                Another question...
                I have seperate reservoirs for front and rear, so say each reservoir is 200ml, is it better to buy one big reservoir to share the front and rear masters?
                Example if i buy 1 big reservoir thats say 500ml, would that not be better as now i have an extra 300ml of fluid to help distribute the heat?
                93 tt supra,black 6 speed
                --------------------------------
                SINGLE

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by MAZMAN View Post
                  Another question...
                  I have seperate reservoirs for front and rear, so say each reservoir is 200ml, is it better to buy one big reservoir to share the front and rear masters?
                  Example if i buy 1 big reservoir thats say 500ml, would that not be better as now i have an extra 300ml of fluid to help distribute the heat?
                  If you have heat getting to your reservoir you have some very serious problems. Eg you car is on fire.

                  Seriously though, the heat from the brakes doesn't work it's way up to the reservoirs, so that's not a consideration. You could run one big one, I personally like separate ones so you can spot a leak if you suddenly have one. The main consideration is how much fluid the master cylinders displace when bleeding, you have pretty big master cylinders, so you might find you are topping up the separate 200 ml reservoirs every couple of pedal strokes when bleeding, vs one big 500ml one it's not such an issue and you don't have the risk of introducing air when bleeding.

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by Gammaboy View Post
                    Consider, as a stop gap, installing anti-knockback springs in the pistons.
                    Could also put a schrader valve in the master cyl caps and pressurise the system to about 7lbs
                    Location Perth Western Australia

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                      #40
                      RR Racing are a fully floating, which I believe are made by Girodisc/Stoptech.

                      Go the Brypar option if you are going floating, local, locally made and will be likely cheaper than RRR by the time its landed

                      Comment


                        #41
                        ^^Has anyone had much experience with the Brypar stuff yet though - cast iron composition and type seems to be the biggest difference between a few meetings acceptable and short life...although guess that's not much of an issue with 3 lap TA stuff?

                        Must have a tiny user base given the marketing is only a few months old so far.

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by dattoman1000 View Post
                          Could also put a schrader valve in the master cyl caps and pressurise the system to about 7lbs
                          Have you ever done this? Not having a go, I'm intrigued by the idea.

                          If I were to try this, I would replace the stock reservoirs with something that I was confident would hold pressure, and run some sort of monitoring in the cabin, like a guage or alert light that showed a pressure drop. If the air pressure leaked, obviously the pad knockoff would return and no pedal pressure would result.

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Originally posted by MAZMAN View Post
                            Also trying to decide if i should go castrol srf or endless rf650 brake fluid to improve wet boiling points?
                            I found a big improvement in pedal consistency going from glycol based fluid (Dot 4 or Dot 5.1) to silicone based fluid (Dot 5... I think) due to the elimination of water absorption. With Dot 4 I was having to change the brake fluid before every meeting, with Dot 5 I changed it once per year, and that was probably overkill.

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Originally posted by dattoman1000 View Post
                              Could also put a schrader valve in the master cyl caps and pressurise the system to about 7lbs
                              Or maybe install a set of residual pressure check valves from willwood instead?

                              The anti-knockoff springs can be had from AP and a couple of other suppliers, the best pricing I found was actually from an Elise parts supplier in the UK, I have a set sitting waiting for installation in the GTV at some point.
                              "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by Sprinkles View Post
                                I found a big improvement in pedal consistency going from glycol based fluid (Dot 4 or Dot 5.1) to silicone based fluid (Dot 5... I think) due to the elimination of water absorption. With Dot 4 I was having to change the brake fluid before every meeting, with Dot 5 I changed it once per year, and that was probably overkill.
                                Dot 5 is renowned for having a spongy pedal compared to a well bled glycol system - the silicone fluid retains microscopic air bubbles.
                                "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

                                Comment

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