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VT/VX/VY/VZ Commodore track alignment setup

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    VT/VX/VY/VZ Commodore track alignment setup

    Hoping there may be a couple of people with experience with VT-VZ era Commodore wheel alignment for club level track work. Just looking for a baseline to start with, I have a 2002 Monaro. Stock sway bars at this stage with DMS shocks front and rear, although waiting for my front struts to come back after some adjustments and another set of rear springs.

    I have read some specs on American forums for what guys are running with their GTO's but it's a mixed bag of info. Many saying they run only around .4 to .5 degree camber as it already has about 7.5 degrees of caster.

    Plan is to use Nankang AR-1's, unsure on size until I get the wheels sorted.

    Cheers
    Shitter LX hatch
    Perth, WA

    #2
    I haven't done any real motorsport with my VZ yet, but will be doing some hillclimbs with it this year. I'm running a very basic setup - it's just an everyday street car to trash around the hillclimbs. RE: front camber - basically run as much as you can! Nankang recommend up to 3 degress for the AR1 which is pretty conservative for an R spec, and you probably won't get anymore than that from the standard adjustment anyway - certainly not if using the factory offset wheels. I'm pretty tight on tyre to strut clearance with 2 degrees in the front - the semis will probably rub I reckon. Better offset or a small spacer would allow some more. I haven't checked how much the factory adjustment offers. Camber is more important for higher speed corners, and the hillclimbs around here are low speed so I'll just make do with what I can get. And being a daily street car I wouldn't want more than 3degress anyway.
    Front I have roughly zero toe as a compromise for street/track, 2 degrees camber at the moment because it's as much as I can get with the tyre to strut clearance, and unknown castor - I know they have alot of castor factory but I can't measure it at home.
    Rear end I'm just going to run it as-is first and adjust from there if necessary. I haven't measured rear toe, but it is clearly toeing in. Rear camber is also 2 degrees. Mine's a VZ which is supposed to have slightly better rear end alignment than the earlier cars when lowered. How true that is, I don't know. It's about 30mm lower than stock FE2 from memory. I had to shim up the rear springs to get to that height.
    Springs are the heaviest off the shelf King Springs. Fronts are 300-500lb progressive. Rears 600-1000lb IIRC. Those rates are 2-3 times the factory springs which is not a bad sort of starting point IMO. Again, higher speed tracks tend to demand more spring as well. Stock swaybars at the moment. I plan to try it like that at first and change things if needed.

    https://www.nankangtyre.co.uk/products/motorsport/ar-1/
    Optimum operating window 71-104 degrees celsius

    Optimum camber settings between -1.0 to -3.0 degrees

    HOT Pressure settings
    <800kg 23-27.5psi
    800-1000kg 24-32psi
    1,000-1,400kg 27.5-37psi
    1,400kg> 34-42psi

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      #3
      Cheers for that. With the dms front struts I cam dial in a lot more camber than factory so I'll have the flexibility to play around with a decent increase.

      I would call DMS and talk some more about it with them as well. The initial discussion I've had with them was for dedicated track cars which were running 3.5+
      Shitter LX hatch
      Perth, WA

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        #4
        Originally posted by 355LX View Post
        I would call DMS and talk some more about it with them as well. The initial discussion I've had with them was for dedicated track cars which were running 3.5+
        With a McPherson strut front and stock sway bar, 3.5 degrees negative camber would be my starting point, with the expectation that it could go to more negative, maybe up to negative 5 degrees. The Ar-1s will tolerate this just fine.

        And dial in as much postitive castor as possible. They may wear too much on the inside, but this could still be the fastest setup.

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