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    #16
    Originally posted by ahk068 View Post
    jeep is 1" or 1 1/8th depending on year so bigger than the original falcon one.

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    That would be my suggestion for the next thing to try.

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      #17
      I'm with Greg Rust on this, the difference in the MC sizes isn't enough to correlate to such a big change in the pedal throw. Do you have the balance bar in the centre?
      I'm a big fan of pushing brake fluid back up from the caliper to the MC, bubbles like to go up. I don't know how this would work with ABS though.

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        #18
        Originally posted by ahk068 View Post
        I understand the logic behind the setup and the bias isn't great with what I have. I enjoy figuring it out and making what I have work. However I also understand there is some maths involved here and asking advice from people with more experience fast tracks my learning. Yes I may be brave but I'll test on a quiet track day before going nuts.

        Weight would be around 1500-1550kg

        Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
        If you don't understand the mathematics you don't understand the logic.
        Are you optimistic or pessimistic about the end of the world?

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          #19
          Grab the MC from a SRT 300 or Jeep. They should be cheap enough.

          That will fix the fronts. Then use your PV to set the rear bias. Empty open space with lots of stops and dial it in.

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            #20
            Originally posted by Komdotkom View Post
            I'm with Greg Rust on this, the difference in the MC sizes isn't enough to correlate to such a big change in the pedal throw. Do you have the balance bar in the centre?
            I'm a big fan of pushing brake fluid back up from the caliper to the MC, bubbles like to go up. I don't know how this would work with ABS though.
            Car didn't have balance bar fitted when last time out.

            Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

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              #21
              Originally posted by mizone View Post
              Grab the MC from a SRT 300 or Jeep. They should be cheap enough.

              That will fix the fronts. Then use your PV to set the rear bias. Empty open space with lots of stops and dial it in.
              Pedal box and master cylinders already mounted so I'm kind of committed to this path.

              Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

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                #22
                All I'm gunna write is all the boys and girls in Auburn Hills, and those in Italy, spent a LOT of time and effort getting the Brembos to work on the 300 SRT. Hence the piston sizes and complex maths involving such things as the ratio of MC size to caliper piston size You might be flogging a dead horse trying to figure anther way around it.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by Komdotkom View Post
                  I'm a big fan of pushing brake fluid back up from the caliper to the MC, bubbles like to go up. I don't know how this would work with ABS though.
                  not sure i agree with this approach. the bleed points are in the top of the caliper and the fluid entry point is down usually in the centre of the caliper. much more difficult to push air down a wide piston bore than through a tiny tube. any having air in the caliper is MUCH worse than air further up the system, where it is 30 degrees C instead of 300 degrees C.

                  I do like Vac bleeding though, as it enlarges any air pockets and makes it easier to get out.

                  Oo___oO

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                    #24
                    Probably find original mc on jeep has a stepped bore or some shit whilst easy enough to figure out mathematically would still take some fine tuning on the other end.
                    As above system could have air before or in the abs module could be causing issues to bleed there is a procedure to do so may need to go to dealer or specialist to plug in service tool...

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